Author Topic: 1911 work in CO (Read 812 times)

1911WB · « **on:** June 20, 2004, 05:22:22 PM »

Bam Bams or any of you Colorado gun guys- who do you use for 1911 smithing? I mean relatively simple stuff, not custom gunmaking. Right now I've got some stuff on a new SA GI, part of it due to my own playing around with the new toy! I took the mainspring assembly off to change out the ILS parts with regular ones, and when I put it back together the hammer won't fall (I think the sear spring got out of line in this process). I figure I'll use this "golden opportunity" to get a few things done by a knowledgeable 1911 person- tune/adjust extractor, fit an extended ejector, etc.

Mikey · « **Reply #1 on:** June 21, 2004, 02:48:20 AM »

1911WB: I think most competent gunsmiths can help you with your Springer and from the sounds of your problems I don't think it will take a 1911 expert only to help you out.

When you say the sear spring, are you referring to the tiny little coil spring that sits against the sear or are you referring to the 3 prong flat spring underneath the grip safety.

You said the hammer won't fall since you put it back together. OK, pull the slide off so you only have the frame assembly in your hand. Do you have spring tension on the hammer? If so, then you may be correct in assuming the sear spring is kinked or out of whack.

I had a Gold Cup a number of years ago and simply removed the spring to avoid the problem of that little coil spring kinking up. If so, I removed mine to avoid that problem. You may wish to try this and see if the sear then releases the hammer. If so, that should at least get it working for you until you can find someone to tune the extractor and install a longer ejector.

Question though - why do you feel you need the longer ejector??? Is she not ejecting properly for you or does she eject to the center of your forehead - real question.. If the ejector is sending the empties out and if your extractor functions properly, you shouldn't need any real modifications to the pistol yet.

Also, if you replaced the ILS (? not familiar with that abbreviation) parts with regular ones, I do not recall regular 1911 sears with springs, only some of the Gold Cup or other target models, so you may wish to try that first. In addition, make certain your hammer/sear/grip safety spring (whatever the name of that three pronged beast is) is properly seated - the bottom edge should fit snugly into a slot in the back of the grip and the prongs should then be aligned against the back of the hammer, etc.

One trick I have used is to seat that 3 prong spring first, then snug the mainsrping housing against it just to hold it in place before installing the grip safety and that helps me to prevent any of the prongs from slipping out of place. That may help you at least get the pistol functioning before you look to have the modifications done. HTH. Let us know how it goes. Mikey.

Questor · « **Reply #2 on:** June 21, 2004, 04:00:19 AM »

I'm not sure I'd go that route myself. After I knew I got my 1911 I bought the Wilson Combat video on disassembly and reassembly and maintenance. It taught me what I need to know about about getting it back together correctly, and also showed me how simple the gun is. I've replaced broken parts, at least the kind of parts that can be dropped in.

BamBams · « **Reply #3 on:** June 21, 2004, 05:02:43 AM »

To answer his question:

I do the majority of my own gunwork as I had the privilege of spending about 5 years of quality time with a master gunsmith (Charlie Calcote) in Gardener, Louisiana and I have access to all the tools I need at a local gun shop in Colorado Springs.

If I wind up in a jam though, I will call Greg Lent in Woodland Park. He is the "Chronoman" for the USPSA Nationals and other major matches, and an excellent 1911 gunsmith in his own right.

Mikey: FYI: The "ILS" is the "Internal Locking System" that Springfield incorporates in their mainspring housing. It's basically a little pin that is turned 90 degrees, with a little key they provide, and the camming action of the pin locks up the hammer strut against the mainspring housing top pin so that the gun cannot be fired since the hammer works are effectively seized up. It's a pretty simple gizmo, and worth looking into since ALL Springfields now come standard with it.

I think I understand what you mean about the sear spring being out of alignment. I always run the mainspring housing up, and over, the sear spring just enough to ensure that my hammer strut falls correctly into the hole and the sear spring is resting correctly on the bottom of the sear prior to dropping in the grip safety. Once the grip safety is in position, then I will finish sliding up the mainspring housing in it's rails if everything is fitting snugly where they belong.

I'd be surprised, honest, if you "really" needed to replace the ejector with a longer one. If you're experiencing failures to eject, it's probably some other type of problem.

Anyway, I wish I could take a look at that pistol for you. If you are near Woodland Park, I'd be happy to do that.

1911WB · « **Reply #4 on:** June 21, 2004, 08:31:56 AM »

Bam Bams- I can easily get to Woodland Park. When would you be available? Send me a PM with your phone number & when to call. Thanks for all your advice.

WB

BamBams · « **Reply #5 on:** June 21, 2004, 03:42:04 PM »

PM sent.

Mikey · « **Reply #6 on:** June 22, 2004, 03:43:54 AM »

Bam Bams - thanks for clarifying the ILS question. I dunno buddy, but with all these internal locks and afety locks on revolvers and autos I'm thinking I'm still glad I'm living in the past with the older technology. Lends some credence to the idea that things were much simpler in the past, and I guess they were. Thanks again. Mikey.