Author Topic: Revolver cylinder wear (Read 684 times)

Don McCullough · « **on:** June 18, 2004, 05:48:55 PM »

I'm a new member and glad to be here.

I have a AWA, SAA clone that's getting excessive wear at the cylinder notches via the bolt. I've had this gun about a year but not sure AWA will be willing to repair it since it was returned--like new--to dealer and I'm the second owner. The wear is not properly centered with the notches.

What do you guys think? About how much to get the parts mating properly? Suggest a gunsmith? How much excessive wear will require my buying a new cylinder?

Thanks,

Don McCullough

papajohn428 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 20, 2004, 05:59:52 AM »

Welcome, Don! Always nice to see new folks come to these boards.

I'm not a gunsmith or anything close, but my guess is that the bolt may have a sharp edge on it, or the bolt spring is a bit too strong, or a combination of both. But before I started tinkering with it, I'd get in touch with the manufacturer and see if they have any suggestions, or find out what their repair policy is. It might be something you could fix yourself, or it could be quickly and cheaply fixed by your local 'smith. Hope this helps.

Happy Father's Day to you, and all the other Dads!

PJ

44 Man · « **Reply #2 on:** June 21, 2004, 05:10:52 AM »

I think you will find that it is not "wear" in the notches them selves but at the taper cut leading into them. This is normal on most guns and is more more blueing wear than steel wear. If is is more to one side of the notch, possibly the shape of the cylinder bolt needs recountouring. Any 'smith can do that at a nominal charge. At least on an AWA, the timing is good enough that the bolt hits the taper it self rather than on the cylinder ahead of the notch like most Rugers. Cylinders are pretty tough, but you can damage the notches from "fanning" a pistol. That slams the parts around much harder than they were designed for. If you choose to do that, you must have a 'smith who specializes in building "fanning" pistols, rework the gun for you so it can hold up to such abuse. 44 Man

1911crazy · « **Reply #3 on:** June 23, 2004, 09:54:18 AM »

First i'd rather see wear from a good positive lockup than anything else. I would moly up the parts and let it work in then wipe the excess off so all wear would stop and cease to exsist. Put some on the sear too to lessen the trigger pull too. BigBill

Moly in a paste form would work great in this situation. DON"T HOLSTER THE GUN WHILE IN THE MOLY PROCESS. wipe all the excess off first. After its worked in you can remove all of it because its in the tiny pores of the metal.

Malamute · « **Reply #4 on:** June 26, 2004, 06:49:39 PM »

Don, a very gentle polish of the tip of the bolt will likely stop the bolt from scratching the cylinder. Some of the ladies fingernail boards can be had with a very fine grit. If you can't find them in a 400 grit range, I would use 400, then 600 grit wet or dry paper to polish it. Just enough to soften the machining marks, and break the sharpness on the edges.