Author Topic: Extra Cylinders? (Read 1010 times)

whitfang · « **on:** June 29, 2004, 03:18:27 AM »

I've noticed some shooters use extra cylinders for matches.

Do you have to go to Ruger to get cylinders for a Ruger OA? Where else can you buy them?

Do the cylinders 'match up' as well as the one that comes with the pistol?
Or am I just causing problems with accuracy and possibly even safety?

How is Ruger's customer service?

Thanks.

howdy doody · « **Reply #1 on:** June 29, 2004, 06:06:41 AM »

Ruger cylinders supposedly need to be fitted to the individual revolver. I have never run across anyone yet rich enough to afford extras for them. However, the italian made 58 remingtons are ideal candidates for extra cylinders and I outfitted mine with 6 extra at $26 and then the price went up to about $36 now. The remington can switch cylinders in a flash. See the movie Pale Rider. Even Clint can do it quick. I don't even load my cylinders for the remmie inb the gun. I made a loading stand, but you can buy one already made up. Cabelas has all the stuff, Rems, cylinders, loading tool. Hope that helped :-)

unspellable · « **Reply #2 on:** June 29, 2004, 07:15:41 AM »

Since I have two ROA's, I am looking for an ROA cylinder.

Meanwhile, the cylinders in both ROA's are a bit out of index in the same direction. (Timing and lock up OK, but the chambers are not quite in line with the bore.)The cylinder from one will fit nicely in the other but not vice versa.

I have an RD conversion cylinder that fits either better than the originals, the chambers line up well with the bores.

whitfang · « **Reply #3 on:** June 29, 2004, 08:17:15 AM »

Maybe an 1858 Remington would make a good second gun.

I see Pietta makes one - is that a good brand?

I kind of like having a topstrap, like ROAs and Remingtons. That has to be stronger and have better alignment than just having some air up there.

What's an RD converion cylinder?

simonkenton · « **Reply #4 on:** June 29, 2004, 09:06:34 AM »

I have a Pietta, I like it. I had to replace the mainspring and the hand but that is not uncommon on the Italian guns. Otherwise fit and finish are good.
Now Whitfang don't sell the Colts short. They are great classic guns. They will hold up for many thousands of rounds.
Consider, Wild Bill Hickock was using a Colt Navy up into the 1870s, when he had the choice of the Remington or the new cartridge guns. He bet his life on the Colt.
The Colt handles better than the Remington.

whitfang · « **Reply #5 on:** June 29, 2004, 10:54:04 AM »

OK, cap&ball revolver# 3 will be a Colt.

I did find a place called E-GUNPARTS.COM that specializes in gun parts. They had a listing for Ruger OA cylinders; Blued are $62, stainless are $88. They had none in stock. :?

They had a warning that the cylinder should be factory fitted to the gun, as Howdy Doody noted. :?

Flint · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2004, 11:29:14 AM »

For parts for the Uberti and Pietta guns try VTIgunparts.com. They are also soon supposed to have Ruger parts, so maybe we can get cylinders for the Old Army as well, call and ask them. (860) 435-8068.

whitfang · « **Reply #7 on:** June 29, 2004, 06:21:13 PM »

How would you get the 'factory fitting' done?

And would the cylinders be fully interchangeable?

Flint · « **Reply #8 on:** June 30, 2004, 08:09:34 AM »

I have seen 30 year old (old model) cylinders drop into new model new Rugers and time up perfectly. Ruger machining, though not always the smoothest, is consistant, and timing and fit I have never seen to be a problem. Ruger wants to do it for their own protection, and their lawyers are sure to agree.

unspellable · « **Reply #9 on:** June 30, 2004, 12:00:15 PM »

The first variable to contend with when building a solid frame cap & ball revolver like the Ruger is the distance from the recoil shield to the cylinder bearing surface at the front of the cylinder window or end space. Since the cap & ball cylinder has no headspace this boils done to shaving the front bearing surface of the cylinder to match the frame window. Too short and you have excessive end shake. This can be corrected to some extent with shims, at least we do this with a Smith & Wesson. Too long and the cylinder binds or may not even go into the frame. The second variable is the cylinder gap which is then adjusted by shaving the rear of the barrel.

With a replacement cylinder the first issue is the one that is most likely to cause trouble. The cylinder from one of my Rugers will not work in the other frame because it does not have enough end space.