Author Topic: 223 walking (Read 799 times)

bluebayou · « **on:** July 10, 2004, 02:31:08 PM »

Okay, it was a pretty hot day. More than 90 degrees. I shot the 44 barrel with no problems at 50-100 yards. I started shooting the 223 barrel and the mirage was so bad that I figured that it was a lost cause even at 4x. So I just shot 3-five shot groups trying to work on my trigger pull. I will go back on a cooler day to go for group size.

The problem is that since refinishing the stocks the forearm hole and the barrel bolt lug don't quite line up. Now, the 44 barrel was fitted AFTER I refinished the forearm and the forearm just slips on. The 223 barrel has to be smacked around to get it on and is a bear to get off. Previously the barrel shot normal looking groups (1" or so in diameter). Is the group (and the others like it) walking down due to the barrel heating up and pushing the lug?

If I let out some wood would that mess up the groups on the other barrels? Am I off track? The group walked down toward the bullseye. The shots were all quick ones maybe 10-15 seconds apart.

I tried to post a picture of the forearm and the target but it didn't work. Basically, the barrel lug is pushed into the wood in the forearm hole. There is a gap of 1/8" or so in the forearm hole looking toward the muzzle. The 44 barrel lug is centered.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** July 10, 2004, 02:43:48 PM »

One option that a lot of NEF shooters have used is an "O" ring 9/16"ODx3/8"IDx3/32" thick, placed on the barrel stud to semi float the forearm. It works on some, others it doesn't. Mine shoots better on all three of my barrel without the "O" ring, but it might be worth a try. Ice, from RFC, used a grommet 7/16"ODx3/16"IDx3/16" thick on his sportster with good results. You might try one of these options to see if it helps the problems, both with the loose and tight forearms. hth, Tim

JPH45 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 10, 2004, 03:11:44 PM »

I would relieve the stud hole untill the forearm slipped onto the barrel freely. I have had much better success with this method rather than the o-ring thing. I found this almost by accident as I broke a firing pin, and wondered how the barrel would shoot on another frame. The forearm was very tight and didn't shoot well, but on opening the stud hole to relieve the fit, the barrel started to shoot great, just as it had on it's original frame.

Go to the old site (www.hr1871.com) and check out the cost of a fore arm. It may be best to have a forearm for every barrel.

MSP Ret · « **Reply #3 on:** July 10, 2004, 03:27:36 PM »

bluebayou, you are on the right track. The unusual pressure on the barrel created by the tight forearm will cause problems especially as the gun heats up from rapid (10-15 seconds apart) firing. You can relieve the hole a bit to the rear making it a bit oblong but there is another solution. The plastic part that is affixed to the rear of the forearm comes in several (at least 3) different thicknesses. This is how H&R/NEF fits the forearms to your gun. The thickness is very slight, measured in thousandts of an inch but it is enough to make the fit tight or loose. A loose fit will not affect accuracy but the gun may feel a bit "loose " when the action is open. This does not matter, what matters is if the action is tight when it is locked up into battery. If you have another forearm try it, if not remove the forearm and test fire the gun being careful when you open it to load and eject catridges so that you don't drop the barrel off the frame. You can even remove the spacer from the barrel and then attach the forearm to the barrel with the single forearm screw for firing. You might call NEF and ask to buy a set of the rear plastic pieces that go on the forearm, one of each thickness. Explain the problem and that it came back from the factory that way after having the 44 barrel fitted and now the .223 barrel fits incorrectly. Perhaps they will send you a couple of pieces free. I know it should not be that way and they fit the forearm to the new 44 barrel and therefore it is their fault it does not fit your original 223 barrel now. The fact that it was refinished has nothing to do with it since it was refinished PRIOR to having the 44 barrel fitted. Good Luck....<><.... :grin: (P.S. I have adjusted the fit and fixed several friends Handis and Sportsters by mixing and matching different plastic forearm "spacers" to their barrels. They are just held on by 2 small phillips head screws in the back where the receiver lug fits...)

quickdtoo · « **Reply #4 on:** July 10, 2004, 04:02:43 PM »

MSP, thanks for sharing your "adjusting" trick with the forearm spacer. I ordered one from Brownell's a while back hoping it might be metal, but it wasn't. Still have it, measured it at the bottom of the radius for the hinge, .195" The original measures .205", and the spacer on my pardner measures .200". Just did a little swapping and now the forearm doesn't fit so tight, thanks! The brownell's spacer number is 427-501-201, ~$3.50. Tim

quickdtoo · « **Reply #5 on:** July 10, 2004, 04:19:55 PM »

While we're on the subject of forearms, I learned at RFC how important the forestock screw torque can be in accuracy, on my 17hmrs, it makes a difference between 1/2moa and 1.5moa. With that in mind I have been tightening the screws on them and my UV with a torque screwdriver so it's always the same. Anyone else doing this or have thoughts on it?