Author Topic: Wax Bullets (Read 1523 times)

L-Roy · « **on:** January 06, 2003, 08:02:33 PM »

Hello,
Does anyone have any experience with wax bullet loads for indoor practice? Any suggestions for setting up cartridges. Small Pistol/Large Pistol/Shotgun Primers, etc.?

Thank you in advance,

bfoster · « **Reply #1 on:** January 06, 2003, 09:32:50 PM »

I've used these for years. I use standard primers.

The simple way to load these is to make a fairly stout rectangular wooden frame sized (length & width) so that you can just fit a block of paraffin into it . If you shoot 38 Special, a block that has 50 through holes can be made the same length & width as the block of wax. Also make a relatively heavy "press block".

To use, place a block of softened paraffin into the bottom of the frame. Place the block containing the 50 (unprimed) cases into the frame with the case mouths resting on the wax. Place the press block into the frame, its bottom resting on the case heads. Place the frame in a small arbor press, pull the handle far enough so that the cases go just through the wax. Seat the wax wads to the bottom of the cases with a (T handled) dowell turned just fit into an empty case. Clean the cases up & prime. Takes longer to read about than to do.

Note: If you decide to use the cases for regular ammunition all wax residue must be removed. Not just mechanically (tumbling), but chemically (degreased). Otherwise, squib loads are very likely.

Be careful in using these. The primers drive these harder than you might imagine.

Bob

L-Roy · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2003, 05:04:45 AM »

Thank you, Bob, I will be trying this one!

Flint · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2003, 05:18:43 AM »

When we did it, years ago, when we could fast draw in someone's garage, within city limits, we opened the flash hole up about double, to let more primer pressure through, it also lessened the primer back-out that can make a revolver harder to cock. But DON'T EVER use those cases for real reloads after that modification. CCI used to sell plastic bullets and cartridges, and I had a set called "Red Jet" which had aluminum cases with a large flash hole, and they also sold the wax bullets. This is like 40 years ago..

dakotashooter2 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 07, 2003, 05:56:56 AM »

I too recommend drilling out the flash hole. Those setback primers are a pain. When I did mine I did not set the wax to the bottom of the case. I speculate that bfoster's method probably results in a little higher pressure which helps to re-seat the primers. I haven't done these for years but they would sure make a stray dog yelp.

bfoster · « **Reply #5 on:** January 07, 2003, 02:24:31 PM »

Flint and dakotashooter2 are quite right. I never use Federal primers in these loads because these do have a tendancy to back out and tie up the revolver as badly as a 22 Jet fired from an oily chamber. I prefer Remington primers for this appliaction, CCI and Winchester primers work too, but in my revolvers give a bit less consistent results. This sequence of preferences does not apply to cartridges containing smokeless powder.

If you do drill the vent holes, use an 1/8" drill. For me, simply seating the primers snugly works reliably.

Bob

Dand · « **Reply #6 on:** January 13, 2003, 06:42:27 PM »

This sounds interesting. I shot wax bullets a long time ago at a carnival and liked it. Had no idea how to load them.

I have the Speer red plastic bullets and cases but quit using them. They were dirty smelly and I didn't think they shot real well - not as well as I remembered the wax bullets.

boneguru · « **Reply #7 on:** January 14, 2003, 10:19:20 AM »

:-D this is where I meant to post my question about how to ream out flash holes, R