Cocking mechanism Contender-EO frame

[Possum]

Okay, I changed grips from a wood to a pachmyer and now the hammer won't cock.  Small note here:  the pachmyer grips were hard to get on so I used the attaching bolt to "pull" the grip onto the frame.  

 It will reset to the where the hammer is not touching the firing pin, but will not cock beyond that.  When you go to cock he hammer it is just freeplay with no tension and will not cock.  I know this has happened to someone.  What broke?

Afterthought:  I can take the trigger assembly out and using a screwdriver push the safety bars on the side down and the hammer will cock.  It is as if the pieces that push these bars are not contacting them.  I think the pieces are found on the trigger assembly and reset the safety when the triggerguard is pulled back.  Wish I knew more about these things, but it looks like I am working on the experience part!

[Paladin]

try putting the other grip back on and see if it works. had to trim a rubber grip one time to make gun work correctly, been a long time ago and can't remember all the details

[Possum]

No, whatever happaned affected the frame with or without either grip.

[Possum]

Not the barrels, tried that.  I think there is a spring broken somewhere.  I can hear a rattle when I shake it.

[Bug]

What you hear rattling may be nothing other than the uncocked striker. I can't imagine anything you could bend, or get out of kilter by your actions. I also have had to Dremel on Pachmyers to get them to work properly.

 Here is a great exploded view, and parts diagram for the Contender.

http://stevespages.com/ipb-tc-contender.html

It should get you on your way toward a fix.

[Possum]

Here is an update:

I started looking inside in detail and notice that the hammer will cock when the safety "legs" are pushed in.  Looks like the sear is going down and locking in a low position.  When the safety legs are pushed the sear releases and allows the hammer to cock.  On my other frame the sear will go all the way down and then rebounds on it's own, allowing the hammer to cock.  What could be holding the sear down?  The only thing I see putting rebounding pressure on it is the sear spring and plunger.  Please let me know if anyone has a brainstorm.  I am in the process of switching out parts between the frames in order to isolate the problem.

Edit:  I switched the trigger assembly out with the other frame and it worked fine.  The problem frame's sear is "catching" at it's lowest point and does not rebound correctly.  Either the sear plunger or the sear spring is the culprit.  The plunger does have some wear on one of the sides like it is scraping a lot when depressed.  I may try to use a spring from another source and wait on the original parts to come from TC.  Does anyone know of anything else that might be causing the sear to not rebound?

[Gavinator]

How about backing out the trigger stop set screw ( over-travel ) on the back side of the trigger guard? This will allow the sear to engage fully.
 The replacement grip can block the hammer spring from extending while being cocked, this robs you of spring tension and will eventually cause the spring to break.

[skb2706]

old style Pachmyer grips don't work on EO frames unless you take a small die grinder and remove some material from the back of the well that the grip frame fits in. If you have questions contact Pachmyer........I have had several of both styles of frames and grips...if you would like I can send you a pic of what one looks like modified

[Possum]

skb2706, I would like a pic of the modified grip.  

I did switch out the trigger assembly with another one from a different frame and it did  not work.  Then I took the problem frame's trigger assembly and put it on a different frame and it did work.  So now I have two trigger assemblies that work with one frame.  The problem is in the frame parts minus the trigger assembly.  

I may try tonight to switch out the sear plunger and spring from the good frame to the bad frame and see if that is the culprit.  Other than that, I 't know what it could be other than maybe the sear or safety having a burr in the metal somewhere.

[Possum]

When I mounted the 44 mag barrel for the first time, I noticed it was quite tight when I closed it.  This is an older single bolt barrel.  When the barrel closed it compressed the Interlock safety which in turn bent the Interlock screw.  This caused the Interlock safety to ride high and allow the safety to rise up about 1/64" or less.  This in turn bound the sear when the striker was released and struck the sear.  The sear was catching on the safety and not releasing from the compressed position.  

An order from T/C ought to cure the problem.  Thanks to everyone who commented on my dilemna.  You spur the thought process with your comments.

PS: The grip actually had nothing to do with the problem.  It just had been changed when I mounted the new barrel.  Go figure!

[scottzerger]

Hey Guys

 I have an encore pistol with a 223 bbl and everything works fine. Ordered
 a new bbl from another mfg and now the hammer wont cock. Is it bbl
 or frame ?

 I dont want to start changing out componets just yet


  Thxs Scott

[KYODE]

are they reloads? if you don't size the case enough( need to slightly bump the shoulder back) it will not lock up all the way, and will not let the hammer cock. encore and G2 do this. old model contenders misfire in this situation.
also....if you don't lube inside the case necks, you may pull the shoulder back out, and make the case too long from base to shoulder. dry mica works good for that.

i've personally done.....all of the above

[scottzerger]

This gun has not been fired . Just rec'd it in the mail and put it on
 the frame . The hammer cocked twice and then locked in the safe
 postion. If i put the 223 bbl on the hammer cocks and functions fine


 I e-mailed the mfg yesterday . Will see


 Thxs Scottz