Simply bed the forearm to the steel hanger, which protrudes from the front of the action. I usually drill and tap a 6-40 hole in the hanger thru which a cone point set screw is installed. This goes between the attachment nut and the opening in the hanger for the mainspring. This bears on a washer, copper, brass, or stainless to avoid rust, which is inserted between the hanger and the barrel. The washer prevents the cone point from diggin into the barrel and allows the barrel to move freely with the pressure against it. The forearm is them bedded to the hanger, not the barrel. A bit of tape on the barrel when doing the bedding job will set the free float clearance. The forearm may touch the front of the action at the rear but the curved portion near the bottom of the action should not touch the forearm. Use oil based modeling clay to fill voids to avoid forming a mechanical lock and wax to allow the metal to be released from the bedding.. I prefer acraglass jel. Temporarily free float the forearm with a composition washer and adjust the tension on the set screw until accuracy is as good as possible. the number of turns can be counted to replicate the pressure when the rifle is taken down for maintenance. Be sure to lock the first set screw with a second tightened down on the first to avoid the screw loosening..
