Going to make some assumtions here...think you are talking about slack between the breech block and hammer (and you just used "trigger" in place of hammer). Yes...the way to check is without hammer tenstion against the breech block (better check is with the barrled action stripped of everthing but the breech block and hammer)....but no, it shouldn't have that kind of credit card thickness slack. You proably wouldn't have noticed it but for the gas blow by in those fire form loads unless you specifically cheacked for it.
One of my rollers is a Dane that an old-old friend converted to sporter back in the late 1950's. He is still around, just too old to shoot. In describing the conversion, he mentioned making new pins and reaming the holes for a new seat...this would be both the holes in the frame and the holes in the breech block and hammer. IT has no slack at all. Sounds good, but even after all these years, if a case doesn't quite seat (fouling of the rim recess is all it takes) will often missfire...believe the hammer expends it's energy in pushing the bolck forward and attemting to seat the round before the pin is struck solidly.
The ohter is an un-repaired 50-70 NY Contract. Never been rebuilt, but in good shape...it has about the thickness of a sheet of news paper as slack. It's proably not to the point of needing repair. The rifle only sees BP loads, but I keep an eye on this constantly...any slack only gets worsem and as it gets worse, the parts that aren't supose to move now have a running start before contact with eachother...kind of accelerates things.
You might be getting angled case heads/rims from that rifle when shot with full charged ammo...case sets back...breech block moves to take up the slack agaist the hammer...as it moves back it rotates on it's pin...case sets back and takes up this angle.
Pesonally, if what I'm assuming is right, would look into having it repaired. Rather than welding the hammer and cutting a new locking face, would think re-pinning as described is the better fix.