Linseed oil or Tru-finish.

[New Hampshire]

I just got in a new Lyman deerstalker muzzel loader.  The wood is an exceptionally fine piece and I was hoping to keep it that way.  This is first and foremost a hunting piece so this means some kind of additional finish to help it weather any kind of moisture.  So this leads me to the question of which is preferred, Tru-finish or linseed oil?  The stock currently has a beautiful silky satin sheen that I would like to mantain or match.  Will the linseed still allow for that satin like look?  I know Tru-oil can get the same general finish by a light buffin with 0000 wool.  But if the linseed is the better choice......
Also, is there any special procedures/precations/tips with working with linseed oil?
Thanks.
Brian M.

[savageT]

New Hampshire,
I'd prefer the Tru-Oil finish.  I would cut the tru-oil with mineral spirits so that you work the thinned coats into the grain with the palm of your hand until it gets warm and soaks in.  Now as you build up a couple coats, you switch to a wet-dry paper (around 240; 400; 600 grits) cut into 2-3inch squares.  Rub the thinned tru-oil in as you lightly "sand" the finish with just two fingertips.  The results of the sanding will result in a paste that fills in the grain and works the tru-oil deep into the wood.  It is slow going, but the results will yield a finish that rivals anything you've ever seen!
Jim

[gunnut69]

Actually just maintaining an existing finish I use wax.  Specifically a paste wax containing carnuba..  If the stock gets a ferw scratches and little TrueOil will fill them and protect the finish.  Waxing makes the stock much more waterproof..  Linseed oil is never used on stocks without additives.  It will almost never harden.  TrueOil is linseed oil modified with dryers and other additiives.  The other alternative is tung oil.  It dryes much faster and sets up quite a bit harder but is more brittle..  I have seen it craze(crack) when subjected to a relatively light impact.  For simple protection use a thin coat of wax, to renew the stock, a very light coat of TrueOil rubbed out vigorously...

[New Hampshire]

Paste wax with carnuba in it.....sounds like a plan.  what do I do about the inletted parts that, while still have stain, is rougher and does not look to have the same satin finish.  Its actually rather rough looking, but its all unseen so I dont care.  But will the wax still go on and come off alright?
Brian M.

[Iowegan]

Brian, I wish you would have told me you were in the market for a Deer Stalker. I have a near-new one in my safe that has only 10 rounds fired through it. Thought about hunting bambi with it but never did. It would have been in the mail pronto. Nice piece of wood so I see why you want to preserve it. I'd go for the wax too.

Very nice rifle. I sighted mine in and that's the one and only time it has been used. Shot a nice group, great sights, and a nice sling. I trashed a nipple so I ordered a pack of 3 from Lyman. They are metric so the US made nipples won't fit. You might want to get a spare.

Enjoy and take care of that pretty wood!

[New Hampshire]

Hey Iowegan, I had been looking at new smokepoles for a while.  The Deerstalker had been the first choice, and then Midway USA gave me an offer I could not refuse.  So far Ive had a few people tell me what wonderful wood the gun has.  I just cant believe it for a (normaly $249.00 gun....I paid $206,) production gun.  Ive also checked into spare nipples.  One of the guys on the Traditional forum said they Lyman nipples are a little lame, and from the one I have I see its useable, though not the greatest.  Ive been able to find the proper theraded nipples are available from Knight muzzel loading.  So I may pick one up and see if theirs is a bit better in design.  Well I guess thats what I get for not keepin my pals on the boards here informed  :grin: .  Hey, ya wouldnt happen to have a little Savage .22 Model 30G Stevens or G2 contender  you aint using eh   :wink: .  
Brian M.
P.S. Ill start hitting the stores for some pure Carnuba paste wax.  The only car wax I have here has polishing additives....and it says its not for wood.

[savageT]

NH,
If you're looking for a good grade of furniture paste wax, pick up a can of Butcher's Paste wax in the orange and white can.  I first became familiar with it in the Air Force when we would use it on all the floors in the barracks.  Really does a great job on wood furniture as well.  The old Simonize Paste Wax was also a good product but I believe it's no longer on the market.  As far as auto paste waxes, as you say many have abrasives in them and also silicones.  I believe there's a product called California Gold Paste Wax that's high in carnuba waxes (I don't know of any that are pure carnuba).  If you disassemble your muzzle loader, make sure to treat the action cut-out and barrel channel with the wax to waterproof i!
Jim

[2520]

I have not used tung oil on a stock, but I have used it on furniture.  My experience is that it takes a long time to dry.  Truoil works well and dries fast.  I prefer to use oil.  I use refined linseed oil which can be found in art supply stores.  It is a nearly colorless light oil and a small bottle will last a long time.  Costs only a couple dollars.  Work a couple of coats in by hand then switch to the wet sandpaper as described.  I back up the sandpaper with a small eraser, you can overdo the finger pressure and sand grooves into your stock.  Apply oil until the stock won't take anymore at the rate of one coat a day.  When satisfied, let the stock dry for 3-4 days then polish.  Brownells and others sell stock polish.  I make mine from beeswax dissolved in  turpentine.  This is a labor intensive project but results in an excellent finish resistant to wet.  Don't forget to coat the inside of the stock as well as the outside.  When I was building muzzleloaders I use to bed the barrels in wax to keep water from warping the long forearms.

[gunnut69]

I haven't used tung oil in several years and so when faced with a need to refinish a dining room set for my college age daughter I chose tung to refinish with.  I intend to simply frsh up the existing varnish and it works as it did before.  Dries in just a couple of hours, a bit faster than TruOil and is quite hard.  I used a tung product from Formby's..  As to using wax in the inletting, it's the best thing you can do.  It will seal the wood as good as anything else on the market.  I use it on all my wood stocked rifles when hunting them.  I've never had a rifle so protected move or change zero...  Any refined wax with carnuba will do well.  Just apply a very thin coat and allow the dry..  I use an old brish with the bristles trimmed by half their length.  It allows one to get down into the nooks and crannies.  I will seal and protect the wood of your stock and a bit of TruOil will allow you to work out the normal accumulation of scratches and dings one acquires while hunting.  Watch for the new EZine as my second article is going to be a short sweet version of refinishing the stock on a hunting rifle..  Something for the guys who hunts with a wood stock but wants it looking a bit better.

[Carphunter]

After refinishing a Swiss K31, I would tell you to try Tung Oil Finish.  It has a drying agent in it so it doesn't take forever like pure Tung oil.

I used Behr's product, and it worked great.

After doing a lot of reading, I will only use finishes that can be touched up on a rifle.  

Anything poly-based you put on a gun will be a bear to get off if you screw up, or want to change later.

If you want to read some good threads on gun refinishing, check out the stock cleaning forum over at Parallax http://p077.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm34

[Steve P]

You have a good finish to start with.  Don't need to re-do it, especially just before season.  I would go with the wax.  I sneak in an use the wife's Johnson's Paste wax for her wood floors.  Wipe on a little and buff to a shine.  Use a soft tooth brush to polish up any checkering.  Works great for me.  

Good luck with your choice.

Steve  

[New Hampshire]

Thanks Steve P, I now have a name to look for!  I musta spent 10 minutes in both the car wax and housewares depts. looking for somehting suitable.  All I could find in the car dept. was stuff with additives, and most explicitly said not for wood use.  Then the houswares dept. only mostly had them oily spray stuff like pledge.  Now just gotta find some of that Johnsons paste wax.
Brian M.

[New Hampshire]

Just an update.  I went to Home Depot. and found some goodies.  I picked up a can of spray on Spar ployurethane.  I removed all metal furniture and the recoil pad.  I taped off the entire stock and cut out the spots where there is inletting for the lock, bbl channel/ramrod channel and so on.  Sprayed them real good and its drying right now.  Once dry I will remove all tape and apply coats of the "Butchers bowling alley wax" I got on the rest of the stock.  All the urethane will be hidden but water proofed, and the regular finish will have a nice wax coating.  Should be able to take a hurricane if need be  :grin: .
Brian M.

[CzaRon]

Be careful using Butcher's products. I used the stuff in the orange and black can on a rifle and the spots where some wax got on the metal resulted in the removal of the bluing. I would suggest taking all blued steel parts off the stock before applying Butcher's wax.