Author Topic: Question for the Contender pros (Read 630 times)

spotteddog · « **on:** October 17, 2004, 04:13:57 AM »

I recently got a 10" 44 mag barrel for my contender and have run in to a oddity while shooting it. Sometimes when I am ready to fire the hammer will not drop when I pull the trigger. If I break open the action and reset the hammer it may or may not fire,I have made no changes to the trigger adjustments since I put this barrel on and it worked fine with all my other barrels previously. Any suggestions what to look for to correct this problem?

Ladobe · « **Reply #1 on:** October 17, 2004, 07:37:32 AM »

What vintage is the frame and what vintage is the 44 barrel? Does the barrel have a straight or stepped lug?

Best guess with the info given is that you have a newer (EO) frame and the barrel is a 10" octagon with a one piece locking bolt. If so the locking bolt needs to be changed to the newer split bolts. Bolt set free from TC for the asking and easy to change yourself.

Ladobe

spotteddog · « **Reply #2 on:** October 17, 2004, 08:01:30 AM »

The frame is the E/O frame and the barrel is round and has the same split lug as my other barrels. I guess the old frames must have been horrible to open cause even this one takes serious pull on the guard spur to open.

Lone Star · « **Reply #3 on:** October 17, 2004, 09:12:02 AM »

The bolt is not consistently hitting the safety interlock for some reason; it is not going far enough into the frame. Is this a modern barrel, or one which sat on a dealer's shelf for years? Either the interlock has been damaged/loosened, or the bolts should be replaced with the most recent you can find. T/C is the choice here.

Sometimes the bolt is gummed up; spray the bolt and the interlock safety with degreaser and DO NOT OIL THEM! Try it again - T/C specifically recommends not using oil on internal action parts.

If this does not fix the problem, it may be a bolt-slot tolerence issue and the barrel/frame should be sent to T/C. They'll either fix it or replace the barrel.

spotteddog · « **Reply #4 on:** October 17, 2004, 10:47:41 AM »

Well the frame was bought new 2 yrs ago and has less than 100 rnds on it,
mostly 223s from 3 different barrels less than 40 rnds of 44mag including the 10 I shot yesterday and 10 35rem. The barrel is used I just traded for but is in excellent shape.One thing I have noticed is that it only time it seems to not fire is when there is a rnd in the chamber,if I break it open to reset the hammer then pull the trigger without cocking the hammer back like the manual says to do instead of dry firing, it seems to go off every time. I will go and give it another good cleaning again and try that.

Lone Star · « **Reply #5 on:** October 17, 2004, 12:27:27 PM »

This indicates that the cartridge is not fully entering the chamber and is holding the barrel slightly our of battery; this keeps the bolt from hittiing the interlock safety butterfly. Otherwise there should be no difference in hammerfall with or without a chambered cartridge. Either the rim cutout in the barrel is too shallow/dirty, or the rims of the cartridges you are using are too thick (or the bullet is touching the lands). It may be a case of a slightly shallow rim cutout and a slightly thick case rim.

Used barrels are sold for a reason - this one may have been sold because it caused trouble for the original owner. If the rim cutout is out of SAAMI specs then T/C will fix or replace the barrel.

rickyp · « **Reply #6 on:** October 17, 2004, 12:47:53 PM »

Quote from: Lone Star

Used barrels are sold for a reason - this one may have been sold because it caused trouble for the original owner. If the rim cutout is out of SAAMI specs then T/C will fix or replace the barrel.

This is not always the case lots of people like to trade and sell barrels to get something new. I for one have been known to trade a barrel off after just a few weeks

are the rounds you are using reloads or factory

spotteddog · « **Reply #7 on:** October 17, 2004, 01:58:11 PM »

The barrel came from the T/C classifieds from another member I have traded with before and I honestly do not believe he would have traded me a problem barrel. I will check and see if cut out is dirty or has a bur and try some different ammo,Ill mic the rims and see if there is a difference. If I cant figure it out Ill ship it back to T/C.

rickyp Im using remington factory 180gr.jsp

Hey thanks to all for the imput it gave me some things to look for.

Lone Star · « **Reply #8 on:** October 17, 2004, 04:18:21 PM »

Quote

This is not always the case lots of people like to trade and sell barrels to get something new.

What I said is always the case - barrels are sold for a reason. Note that I said that the barel MAY have been a problem barrel. I buy and sell barrels too, but I always have a reason to do so.

spotteddog · « **Reply #9 on:** October 17, 2004, 04:34:06 PM »

The barrel came from the T/C classifieds from another member I have traded with before and I honestly do not believe he would have traded me a problem barrel. I will check and see if cut out is dirty or has a bur and try some different ammo,Ill mic the rims and see if there is a difference. If I cant figure it out Ill ship it back to T/C.

rickyp Im using remington factory 180gr.jsp

Hey thanks to all for the imput it gave me some things to look for.

Bug · « **Reply #10 on:** October 18, 2004, 03:54:14 PM »

One other thing I can think to try. Check the interlock/butterfly screw. It may be loose or, if your lugs happen to be on the long side, it may even be bent. This happened to me. It's easy to tell if it's bent; it will wobble, when you turn it, a very noticeable degree. Also, it takes a bit of blue loctite on the threads. New factory screws already have it on them.