Author Topic: What should I use to remove epoxy? (Read 875 times)

str8shooter48 · « **on:** September 27, 2004, 02:33:30 PM »

I have a couple T/C Contender barrels with T/C rail scope mounts attached. When I installed them the mounting instructions recommended both screwing and epoxy for larger calibers. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Now I'd like to change scopes and put a regular base and set of rings on them. What would work to cut the epoxy and not do too much damage to the blueing on the barrel?

Thanks

savageT · « **Reply #1 on:** September 27, 2004, 02:44:07 PM »

Try heating the epoxy with something like a soldering iron. I'd be very careful and stay away from using a torch....Ouch!
Jim

gunnut69 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 28, 2004, 08:30:00 AM »

Epoxy will turn loose if heated. I would use a propane torch, carefully. It won't furt the blue until the temps get to several hundres degrees, nearly to silver brazing temps, so you will be OK. The epoxy will soften and can be removed with a copper or brass chisel. Use a brass rifle casing hammered flat. It will scrape the epoxy off and a bit of steel wool(0000) and WD40 will remove any brass markings. The only solvents that remove setup epoxies are acetone and lacquer thinner... Don't worry about damaging the steel it takes a lot of heat to alter the temper of 4140..
A note----DO NOT apply the flame directly to the epoxy. Most are very flammable materials...

str8shooter48 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 28, 2004, 02:38:28 PM »

Thanks guys. Heat was my first thought. I just didn't know how hot I could get the barrel without ruining the blueing.

Thanks

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 29, 2004, 10:08:44 AM »

The epoxy will turn loose long before any damage is down to the bluing.

handirifle · « **Reply #5 on:** October 06, 2004, 06:05:27 PM »

I would try a heat gun before using flame, personally. If the epoxy was cured at room temp it should let go around 150degrees F.

Epoxy will ALWAYS break down when stressed at temperatures aboove its curing temp.

I have built many laminated recurve and my oven cured the epoxy at 180 degrees for that very reason.

Prince of Wales · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2004, 08:56:19 AM »

I`ve had good luck using a blow dryer to release adhesives such as epoxy. POW

7mm MAGNUM · « **Reply #7 on:** October 13, 2004, 03:06:37 AM »

See if anyone you know has one of those heat guns,... like a hair dryer but MUCH hotter!

tscott · « **Reply #8 on:** October 23, 2004, 03:08:47 PM »

How do I get that epoxy like finish off of an old 1100 stock.
It's scratched up bad, and I'd like to just clean up and go with my favorite finish = oil and butchers wax...

savageT · « **Reply #9 on:** October 23, 2004, 03:41:35 PM »

tscott,
The first thing in removing your finish is to determine what you have there. Try using nail polish remover first to see if it is attacked.....from there try paint remover and let it soak for a few minutes. If the results indicate they can be removed, then proceed with a good paint stripper. If it is uneffected by either chemical,, then you will have to rely on heat to soften up the epoxy and scape it off.

If this is an original Remington finish I would venture a guess that you probably have a laquer finish. Epoxy is NOT used for furniture finishes generally.

Jim

gunnut69 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 24, 2004, 09:07:50 AM »

If it's the original finish it's a cross linked polymer and it's very tough to remove.. I use a propane torch and doing a small patch at a time heat the finish until the poly bubbles or curdles. This is the plastic breaking down from the heat. Keep the flame moving to aviod scorching which will darken the wood... Beware of scorching also on any corners or edges. The curdled finish is easily scraped off using a paint scraper or as I do an old wide bladed butcher knife. All the finsh needn't be removed as the sanding step will remove what little is left. I really don't like using harsh chemicals on a wooden stock. Some is sure to be absorbed and I remember the salt wood stocks of the Brownings.. Sand the stock with shaped blocks, pieces of hose or sanding blocks to keep flat surfaaces flat and sharp edges sharp. I start with 100 grit paper and move quickly to 220 and up.. Always finish a grade of grit by a complete sanding with the grain flow of the stock.. When 220 or 320 grit has been sanded (depends on the level of finsh needed) polish the wood with steel wool, start with 00 and move to 0000. The woods surface will look shiney as the steel wool polishes it. The stock is then ready for finish..

Donaldo · « **Reply #11 on:** October 26, 2004, 05:25:24 AM »

Instead of removing the epoxy finish why not just give it a very good sanding, leave it as a base coat to seal the wood, then go over it with one of the rub on polyurathene finishes. You can get them in gloss, satin or flat. This would be a much more durable finish than any rub on oil finish which is never completely water proof. A good epoxy or urathane finish if applied to all surfaces will allow you to carry your rifle in all types of weather and not worry about wood warping or swelling and changing impact point.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 26, 2004, 08:38:49 PM »

That's a great theory but the poly's have their own set of faults... They are on the wood finishes not in the wood finishes. They set on top the wood and are quite brittle. many have cracks from impacts and most will eventually craze from age and heat. When they're cracked the moisture gets in and the finish lifts and stock moves. You've all seen the cloudy white haze on used Remington 700 rifles.. Maintenance on poly is more like repainting a car.. spot sand, apply the new finish(several coats) and sand level, then polish. A good oil finish with a wax protective coat is nearly as waterproof and is a lot more durable. I've been mucking around with guns and stock work for 35+ years and have tried everything I have found. Tung oil is waterproof and Linspeed is quicker to apply but TrueOil and wax lasts well, is easy to maintain and will shed water like a duck. It won't crack over time and maintaining it is easy... I've a 300 mag on an american enfield that I built 30 years ago to hunt moose with...it looks as good as the day it was finished..well,, the rollover and skipline checkering have lost some of their appeal but the finish is going strong... It's the rifle I take when it's raining and I have to go hunt.. Never moves from year to year and maintenance is simple... The blue is wearing a litle thin on the high spots and there are a few scratches,(it was to Canada twice)but the wood hasn't moved yet!