Author Topic: Question about Classic Lee Loader (Read 858 times)

jmartinson · « **on:** November 05, 2004, 04:30:00 AM »

Talking about this one:
http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1099667446.5673=/html/catalog/dies-p4.html#LeeLoader

How do you generate the forces needed to crimp the brass around the bullet? I reloaded with my dad when I was a kid and used a mallot to beat the primer into place, so I'm not too worried about that aspect.

I would like to try reloading to make subsonic loads in .223 (for quiet pest removal) and possibly some hunting rounds in 7.62x39mm... all in small quantities. . . just to try it out and I don't want to spend too much money up front.

Is this a good option for me? Would I be better off waiting and trying to find a used single stage press from somebody who is upgrading to progressive?

EDIT- Also, is this any more or less consistant of a process than using a press? Assuming I also get a primer pocket deburring tool (or whatever it's called) and an accurate powder scale, can this setup make ammo that is as consistant/accurate as a more common single stage press would make?

EDIT- Also, I live in a really small house & I don't have space to dedicate to the reloading process. It's all going to have to be done in the kitchen or living room, either on a folding/portable table or on a thick sheet of plywood attached to the counter with some C-clamps.

Thanks for any info or advice!!!

-Jacob

New Hampshire · « **Reply #1 on:** November 05, 2004, 06:09:11 AM »

To be honest the table mounted press would be your best bet. BUT, if space is limited, and want to make things easier than using a mallet try the Lee hand press:

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/410804

Brian M.

jmartinson · « **Reply #2 on:** November 05, 2004, 06:43:54 AM »

Does this look like a reasonable shopping list for the hardware parts?

.223 setup...

lee hand press
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0000690685

lee safety powder scale
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0000690681

lee deluxe dies for .223
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0000690604

rcbs flash hole deburring tool
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0004488102

Am I missing anything other than brass, powder & primers? Do I need to get a case trimmer & gauge or caliper?

Are dies & presses standardized & interchangeable, i.e. can you mix & match dies & presses from different manufacturers?

Thanks!

-Jacob

quickdtoo · « **Reply #3 on:** November 05, 2004, 07:06:00 AM »

Jacob,

I only reload for the .45-70, until I needed to crimp bullets, the lee loader worked fine. Upon several recommendations I ordered the Lee Anniversary kit with Modern Reloading manual for $78. It meets my requirement of cost, value and quality for the minimum I'll use it.
Hope his helps,
Tim
http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/820810

mountainview · « **Reply #4 on:** November 05, 2004, 07:14:14 AM »

Jacob,

I use the Lee Classic in 2 calibers and consistency is as good as anything else. May not be fancy but it does the job for me at least. Main source of variation seems to come from the components I use. Better components generally equals less variation. The beauty of the Classic Loader is that it is easy to use and takes up very little space. I don't crimp using it since I have not developed the right technique (I tend to crush or buckle the free-standing/unsupported case) but still have developed accurate loads for target shooting using non-crimped cases.

I would recommend, if you have not already done so, read at least 2 books on reloading and anything else you can get before starting out. Once I did this I knew exactly what I wanted on my shopping list, why I needed it, and had confidence in what I was doing. Also download the instructions from Lee Precision's website and study the illustrated procedure in detail before loading for keeps. The above is what helped me to get started.

Safe loading.

jmartinson · « **Reply #5 on:** November 05, 2004, 07:19:18 AM »

Hmm, it looks like that would be a better value than piecing things together individually.

Do you think mounting the press to a 3/4" piece of particle board and C-clamping that to a kitchen countertop would be sturdy enough for the forces involved?

-Jacob

jmartinson · « **Reply #6 on:** November 05, 2004, 07:23:34 AM »

OK, I will read all the stuff I can find online before making any final decisions.

Thanks for the info guys!!!

-Jacob

Leftoverdj · « **Reply #7 on:** November 05, 2004, 07:54:37 AM »

Quote from: jmartinson

Do you think mounting the press to a 3/4" piece of particle board and C-clamping that to a kitchen countertop would be sturdy enough for the forces involved?

-Jacob

Make it 3/4" plyboard and it'll work fine. Particle and OSB are not quite strong enough. It's a good idea to mount everything you use on a standard size base. This hobby tends to grow faster than the space available does and it's a lot easier to set up and take down if everything has the same base. It's also possible, depending on your storage space, that you could bolt press, powder measure, trimmer, etc to the same piece of plywood and have a whole moveable benchtop.

New Hampshire · « **Reply #8 on:** November 05, 2004, 11:01:05 AM »

The plywood should do you just fine. You can clamp it just about anywheres and remove it for storage. There is also this nifty thing:

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/155024

Takes apart easy and it is not as big as a dedicated bench so you get to save space.
Brian M.

Robert357 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 08, 2004, 02:19:19 PM »

Quote from: jmartinson

How do you generate the forces needed to crimp the brass around the bullet? I reloaded with my dad when I was a kid and used a mallot to beat the primer into place, so I'm not too worried about that aspect.

I would like to try reloading to make subsonic loads in .223 (for quiet pest removal) and possibly some hunting rounds in 7.62x39mm... all in small quantities. . . just to try it out and I don't want to spend too much money up front.

-Jacob

You have got a lot of good advice but I didn't see anyone directly answer your crimping question. The short answer is the Classic Lee Loader isn't used to produce a crimp.

The Classic Lee load is NOT used for Full Length sizing. It is for Neck sizing your rounds. You are suppose to full length size semi-autos, which is what most .223 & 7.62x39mm's are chambered in.

If for some reason you have a bolt action, Thompson Contender, or falling block .223 or 7.62x39 that you are reloading for, then by all means use the Classic Lee Loader. But for anything like that you don't need a crimp and so a "typical crimp" is not part of how it works.

Therefore if you want a crimp with the Lee Loader you need to resort to say a "stab crimp" where you use a pin punch or small screwdriver to pound the side of the case into the bullet. Yes, there were some commercial rounds that use to do that. It does mess up your ability to reuse the brass, but it is one way of providing a crimp with this set up. If that doesn't appeal to you then you need to rig up something the will push in the sides of the brass case to provide a roll crimp of some kind. At that point I would opt for an inexpensive press and a regular set of Lee dies in the calibers you are interested in.

I have a Lee Classic Load in 7.62x54R that I use along with my Lee 7.62x54R regular Lee reloading dies and my two reloading presses. I often will use my Lee Classic Loader to Neck size my MN 1891/30 bolt action rifle brass and deprime it. I will then use my powder scale to determine a charge, pour it into the primed case and use my press to seat the bullet and apply a crimp, if I want to. Rifles with tublar magazines (many lever and pump actions) and semi-automatics are recommended to have a crimp as are rounds with very heavy recoil (neither .233 or 7.62x39).

Hunting ammo that can be bounced around in a car or the filed is often crimped as well.