Author Topic: blueing or park in deepfryer (Read 798 times)

EdSmith · « **on:** November 03, 2004, 08:58:29 PM »

I was wondering if any one has tried to use one of those cheap deep fryers fo bluing or parkerizing small parts or receivers,seems like a cheap way for small parts.just a thought. ed smith :idea3:

50 Calshtr · « **Reply #1 on:** November 04, 2004, 05:03:27 AM »

Did a batch of S&W 28s from a local police dept on a Coleman gas stove many years ago. Big trick was maintaining the right temperature, the gas burner controls were not very precise and we had to preaty much play with it constantly. Results varied from great to green, much of this variation, in retrospect, was probably due to the number of beers consumed in the process.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 04, 2004, 05:07:03 AM »

Bluing salts are highly corrosive.. Don't know how long the elements would live. The tanks and heaters are not the real expense. The salts and disposal after use are the expense.. The bluing operations I've been involved with all showed extreme rusting of all ferris metals in the vicinity of the tanks. I you watch for sales, bluing tanks bring almost nothing at auction. They are much too specialized..

EdSmith · « **Reply #3 on:** November 04, 2004, 06:41:15 PM »

thanks gunnut,I forgot about the caustic effect of the bluing salts,the electronics in the heating controls would last about 10 min. well on to my next stupid idea.

Nobade · « **Reply #4 on:** November 11, 2004, 04:14:12 PM »

In the shop where I work, we do small parts in an enamaled tamale pot on top of an electric hot plate. The enamel coating protects the pot, and the whole mess has been going for years. We also just started using one of those infrared thermometers to keep tabs on the temp of the salts. Once we got a good one (Fluke) it has been very useful.

EdSmith · « **Reply #5 on:** November 14, 2004, 06:52:20 PM »

thanks noblade, I live in an apt. and a full set of tanks is out of the question,the only things I would be bluing would be receivers,handgun frames,ect.I like the hot plate idea. :yeah:

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 15, 2004, 07:06:56 AM »

Perhaps the 'BelgianBlue' sold by Brownells or another of the fast rust bluing compounds. They require cleaning and a tank to boil the water in. They rust readily and a single tank can blue even long guns.. plus it is a real rust blue!! Also the materials are a bunch cheaper, bluing salts are very expensive for just a few weapons..

Nobade · « **Reply #7 on:** November 15, 2004, 04:45:29 PM »

The gunnut gives good advice. I sure wouldn't mix up any bluing salts in an apartment. Not only is it very corrosive, it's bad for your body. Especially the lye component. No, that's something you want to do either in an outbuilding or at the minimum in a shop with a seperate room dedicated to it.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 16, 2004, 05:10:35 AM »

The gunsmith who kinda got me started used to do hot salt bluing in a shed built for the purpose. It was on a cancrete slab and stick built in construction. He started having problems with the clapboard siding falling off and found the nails had been corroded completely away by the salts.. He partially reconstructed it using stainless screws.. The 'Belgian Blue' as sold thru Brownells only requires boiling water to convert the red rust(ferris oxide) to a blue/black(ferric oxide). The rest can be done with hand tools.