Marks near cylinder bolt stops

[MountainMan]

Fellow Shooters,

Even though I've yet to shoot my new Pietta 1858 Remingtons, the guns have started to develop marks (nicks) on the leading edge of the cylinder bolt stops just from me working the action during cleaning.  I assume this is caused from the timing not being perfect.  Are these marks normal, or do they indicate a problem?

Thank you.

[filmokentucky]

Timing might be out a little bit. Or there could be a small burr on the edge of the bolt. With the cylinder out you should be able to see any burrs. Since these are new guns, there could be all kinds of machining chips and whatall in there. With any revolver it's usually  good idea to strip them down and thoroughly clean them. You're apt to find most anything in there.  Fortunately, they are easy to assemble and disassemble.                                                                                             I've got a Signature Series Colt '60 Army that was so bad it was trying to lock up a quarter inch past  the slots. Had to replace all the guts to get it right. My Uberti Remington had the slight marks you are talking about and it just needed a good cleaning. Had a number of metal chips inside it.
You never know. Good luck.

[Will52100]

You might try stoning the cylinder locking bolt with a fine stone to polish it a little, but even if everything is timed rite there will be a little wear there, though if timed rite it will be just a little briteness on the edge, no majore damage or wear.

[Flint]

Notice that the Remington has no lead-in cut at the notch, like most other revolvers so it is bound to mark the cylinder when the bolt  drops.  If you time the bolt so fine it drops right in the main notch, it can overshoot the notch with a fast cocking acton.  Revolvers are usually timed to drop into the lead cut, which the 58 Remington does not have.

Note that New Model Rugers drop VERY early, and ring the cylinder, they went too far to make sure they lock up.

You can time it to drop in the notch, but buy a few spare bolts to experiment with, and you are certain to get overtravel with rapid shooting,

A full fluted 1860 or 1861 Colt type must be timed that way to avoid the bolt having to climb the flute to engage, and they inevitably overtravel.

[filmokentucky]

Flint-- I know what you mean about the fluted cylinder '60 Armies. But
this is a standard cylinder. Note however, that it is from the abyssmally
low quality "Signature Series". As I am sure you are aware, the quality is actually all over the place. And to add insult to injury, they, for reasons that ecape all sapient beings, then stamped that goofy signature into the backstrap. It was as if they were saying, "Here it is! It is junk! And we are
inordinately proud of it!" The surprising thing is that mine, while it looks to have been assembled by a group of drunken Chimpanzees in a closet with the lights out, is one of my most accurate revolvers.  I once hit a candle pin three times out of five at 100 yards and the two that missed would have still been in the kill zone of a jack rabbit. Go figure.

[Flint]

I have a second gen fluted Army, and its timing (and overall quality) is right on, but my Signature Series (not fluted) is by comparison, junk, as you suggest.

My point was, though, that the tight timing required to get a fluted Army or Navy running smoothly threatens overtravel, as would trying to time a Remington to leave no marks.

Incidently, my Signature Colt timing was so early as to badly ring the (soft) cylinder.  I replaced most internal parts in that revolver with Uberti parts, including the bolt and hammer.

Luckily, an R&D or Kirst cylinder is so hard, that cartrdge conversion Remington cylinder notches aren't badly damaged by the bolt, rather the conversion cylinders are hard on the soft Italian parts.

[1860]

Question for you guys shooting Sig. Series Colts:  Have any of you had or seen bad bores on these guns?

I bought one early in their production run(1860), I was almost foaming at the mouth to get it.  It was beautiful, and I'll just refer to Filmo's excellant post above as to the poor timing.  I fixed her up and took it shooting, after less than 100 rounds there was noticeable errosion near the end of the bore, looked like pitting.  I sent it back and they very nicely sent another, also poorly timed.  Go that one working and took it shooting, this time I checked the bore every 2 cylinders, after 40 some shots it started again, never saw anything like it, looked just like pitting except pits don't form that quick.  They sent me a third gun, the officiers model with flutted and regular cylinders, there was no hope of my ever getting both of those cylinders to work in the same gun, I sent it back with out shooting.  I have to give them one thing, they knew they had problems and took care of you with out any fuss, The guys name was Tony.  He gave me a choice of my money back or any model I wanted to try, I took a little 4" pocket revolver, it's a handsome well shooting little gun, after I retimed it of course.  

Just wondering if anyone has seen bbls. like I had, I forgot to mention, my shooting buddy bought one at the same time and his did the same thing, it's now a wall hanger..

60

[R.M.]

1860

Interesting.  
What powder and charge did you use?
I have a Pietta that did the same thing as far as the pitting goes. I was using light charges of 777. In 6 months the forcing cone looked like it had ben bead blasted with BB's.
I ended up with a Ruger, so the gun's been retired.  
 
R.M.

[Will52100]

Never heard of that before, I've only shot Pietta and Uberti's and never had that problem, but all I've ever shot is black powder, mostly full house loads even in the Walker.  Could be cheap metal?  Or maybe a reaction with left over lubricants or may even be contaminates in the powder?