Author Topic: Target model here--It's nice BUT...  (Read 1496 times)

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Offline cheatermk3

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Target model here--It's nice BUT...
« on: December 15, 2004, 05:21:57 PM »
Hi all.  I got a call today, my H&R Target 38-55 arrived, so I stopped after work and picked it up.  Nicer polish and bluing than I'm used to on H&R rifles and the walnut had some figure too.  Nothing really nice just some wavy grain in the butt.  Nicely done machine cut checkering on the grip and forend.  A joy to shoulder.  When I got home there was a package on the porch from Midway, my dies and shellholders.  Things are looking up.

Now for the downside.  The LEE dies say 375 WIN on them, even though the set is marked 38-55 win(what I ordered).  OK, no sweat, they should work fine.  Then I tried the action a few times, and it doesn't feel quite right, like it's not locking up fully.  The latch lever is loose when the action is closed.  I'll pull the stock off and run some spray solvent into it to flush it out, as I've seen this advised in other posts on this board.  

Then I tried an empty case; dropped right in, closed ok (except for the mushy, not-fully-locked-up feeling), and ejected with authority upon opening.  So, anticipating success tomorrow when I clean out with solvent, I loaded up three rounds with some 240 grain slugs (380 dia) I bought last sunday.  They came out of the seating die (I seated the bullet to the crimping groove) with the typical coke-bottle look I'm used to seeing with handloaded straight-wall cases.  

They chamber, but VERY snugly;  It took WAY too much effort to close the action and they had to be coaxed out with a rod--a couple of gentle taps were all it took, but I don't know....

I examined the round after I knocked it out of the chamber and I couldn't see any marks at all on the case or the bullet.  I tried fully roll crimping and this helped a little, but what I'm thinking is that there may be just enuff slop in the 375win die to allow the bullet to be seated enough off center in the case to interfere with smooth chambering.  I don't know, maybe Lee puts 375 dies in their 38-55 sets all the time--I didn't think there was enough difference in the cases for this to be a problem.  I'm gonna call lee precision tomorrow and hopefully get to talk with someone there knowlegeable enough to answer that question.

Meanwhile, anybody got any comments/suggestions?  I'm dyin' to shoot this piece.  Maybe the .380 dia bullets are part of the chambering problem.  I have a friend who shoots a 375 Epstein maybe I'll borrow a few jacketed bullets from him and see how they look in my cases and if they chamber any easier.

Offline Cottonwood

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Target model here--It's nice BUT...
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2004, 06:25:01 PM »
This is some information that I got off of the old BCSS forum board that might help you.  You say your using boolits that are .380 dia, this I questioned right away, but not having owned a Target Model I decided to research this information for you.

Posted by Bushdogger at BCSS:
Here are some loads that I found to be fairly accurate in my .38/55 H&R Target model with 28" bbl. Range-50yds., sights-Williams peep rear, Lyman 17A front. Brass & primers new WW. These loads are at the upper end of the pressure scale but were safe and showed no signs of excessive pressure IN MY RIFLE. Start out 10% lower.
Bore groove dia.=.378" in this gun. 3 shot groups.

1. Barnes 255gr.FP (.377)/IMR3031-34grs./1908 FPS/ 0.9" group size/C.O.L.=2.635"

2. Barnes 255gr./ RL7-29grs./1767 FPS/0.9" group size/ C.O.L.=2.635"

3. Cast Performance 260gr. FNGC (.379")/ RL7-28grs./
1838 FPS/0.7" group size/C.O.L.=2.430"

AS I have read before that a .380 dia boolit is not the right dia for the 38-55 Target Model.

Offline cheatermk3

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« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2004, 07:38:46 PM »
Thank you for the quick response.  I bought those bullets last Sunday, not knowing the groove diameter since I hadn't received the rifle yet.  I didn't think that a few thousandths extra would be a safety issue with cast bullets, as long as I started with reduced loads.  After the trouble I had chambering my first tries at making ammo for this rifle, I thought for a bit, then decided to try starting a bullet into the bore with the thought I could measure the bullet before and after.  So, i set a bullet nose-first into the muzzle, and tapped lightly with a medium size deadblow tipped mallet.  I stopped with the base of the bullet flush with the end of the muzzle.  I was surprised how easily it entered the bore.  I then used a one-piece coated rod to gently tap the bullet back out of the bore; again I was surprised how little effort was needed to push the bullet back out.  I don't think the bullet ever filled the bore to the bottom of the grooves.  I tried to measure the dia. of the bullet across the marks the lands made but I don't think I got a good read on it because I could only use theknife edge tips of the caliper.  My mike has too thick a shank to use.  I'll take it to work tomorrow and have a machinist measure it for me.  I got .377 for this spot but I'm not confident I got a good reading.   I got an even .380 at 4 points before I put it into the bore. The grooves in the bore look very shallow but that's what I expected Ballard rifling to look like.  But still, the rounds should chamber.  Maybe I need to pay closer attention to how I set up my seater die and see if I can get the bullets to seat straighter in the case instead of slightly offset.  The "coke bottle" bulge the bullet makes in the case is apparent on one side of the case and not visible on the other.

Thanks for the loads too.

I'm off to bed 4:30 comes early.

EDIT:  Got to work a little early and had a Machinist measure the bullet I stuffed into the bore last night.  He got .376 lands and .379 for the outside.  So I guess that's the dimensions for my bore; .379 groove dia and .376 across the lands.  

After sleeping on it I know I hurried through the loadind/setting up of the dies so that's where I'll concentrate my efforts today to try and produce a better loaded round.  That and the cleanout of the action from the rear.

Offline 95Road King

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Bullet seating
« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2004, 05:07:06 AM »
Cheatermk3
      I had the exact same problem. Are you FLARING the case mouth before  seating bullet??? I started FLARING and that elimited crooked bullet. This was on my 45-70. Try it!!! :grin:  :grin:

Offline Badnews Bob

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Target model here--It's nice BUT...
« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2004, 07:18:19 AM »
I have to be carefull loading .38-55s they seam to be very easy to bulge the case on, then not chamber well, I've just bought the Lee universal belling die to see if that helps. Don't know yet thou. My target special shoots the .380 bullets well  it dosen't like the .377 as much. sound like yours will too by the numbers you gave. The're a pleasure to shoot  but I need to change the sights on mine thats why I'm not doing anything with it right now. 8)
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Offline Cottonwood

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Target model here--It's nice BUT...
« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2004, 07:47:50 PM »
check these Boolits out at Buffalo Arms

You don't have to go as low as .377 dia, you can get .379 dia if .380 is too big.

I just wanted to add this diagram of the 38-55, notice the bullet dia is .377 so maybe the next size up you need if your 38-55 doesn't like .377 dia bullets is .379 instead of .380 dia... just a thought.


But while were talking 38-55's anyone thought of reaming their 38-55's up to a 38-72?

Offline Lone Star

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« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2004, 03:58:21 AM »
All the above suggestions are nice to read, but none of them yet address the real cause - we still don't know what that is.  Make it easy on us:

1) Clean the chamber/throat well with solvent and let dry.

2) Smoke a loaded test round with a candle - cover the bullet and the front 2/3rds of the case too.

3) Chamber the round carefully, the carefully remove it.

4) Look at the place where the soot has been scraped away - this is where the problem lies.

If the only soot-free area is on the bullet, then the bullet may be too large or off center.  If the case is scraped, this can tell you if the chamber is too tight with the seated bullet or if the case is bent or off center.  I had to return a set of RCBS dies once because the dies had warped in the heat treatment and were actually bending the cases into a 'banana' shape; new dies worked great.  

A final check is to chamber factory ammunition; if it chambers fine then the problem is not with the gun.

Offline cheatermk3

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Limited success
« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2004, 07:05:22 AM »
First, thanks to all who have replied to my posts.  

I tried setting up the seater die using some machined washers I have for this purpose. Several years ago I had my 'smith check the head of the press ram for square and he took a bit of material off to accomplish this, so I know my press is not the problem.  I am still not able to seat a bullet plumb and square; whether this is due to the die having sloppy tolerances or being warped I don't know, or care really.  I just know that they will be going back to Midway for a refund.  The setup did produce rounds that will chamber, but they still ain't right.  There is slight resistance but the action closes and they fire OK.  The 2 I made after resetting the seater die ejected fine after firing, the 3 I made the night before, that I forced the action closed on, fired OK too but 2 of the three empties had to be coaxed out of the chamber with a rod.  they popped out with the lightest tap.  

Before I tried my newest attempts at ammo, I removed the buttstock and flushed out the action with spray solvent.  Some very fine particles of steel and what appeared to be short pieces of very fine wire showed up on the white rag I spread out on the bench to catch anything that might be coming out (thanks for the tip, I can't remember who but it was someone on this board).  The action still is not latching up completely, but has not opened on firing.  I am not fond of the idea of sending this rifle to the factory, at least not yet.  My thought is that they didn't get it right the first time, why give them another chance to bone me out?  I trust my local smith's judgement; if he says he can solve the issue with the latch, I'll have him do it.  I will not be taking the action apart myself, even though I know that this may be all that's required to get the rest of the grit out.

I'll be at the show tomorrow looking for better dies(Hornadys with the collett in the seater die) and I'll have the rifle with me.

Offline JPH45

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« Reply #8 on: December 17, 2004, 12:44:22 PM »
Not saying this is it, but it is possible that your 380 bullet is just large enough to cause the case walls to expand enough to create a friction fit with the chamber. You have already sent those dies in, so we will never know, unless you experience this again with the next dies. But is is possible that you ahve a tight chamber and are using a bullet that is simply too large for it. However, being .001 oversize is what a cast shooter would want for best results (at least that is where we like to start) Get a sample of smaller diameter bullets to work with. Also, resize the brass, expand, then crimp in the mouth without seating a bullet and test how the case itself chambers
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Offline cheatermk3

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« Reply #9 on: December 17, 2004, 07:24:11 PM »
JPH45, I haven't sent the dies back yet, since I don't have anything yet to replace them with.  It does seem that the fit of the Lee shellholder to the ram is sloppy.  It wiggles pretty freely, noticeably more so than the few of my RCBS shellholders I tried for comparison.  The seater plug itself slops around in the adjuster body, when assembled the seater die/plug/adjuster setup rattles when shaken in my hand. The seated bullets are visibly cocked and off-center in the cases.  I do admit to skipping a step in the process, I did not size the new cases and trim the case mouths square and to length.  

I just now measured a new case, it's 2.072-2.082.  The trim-to length given in the Hogdon book is 2.065 and max case length is 2.085, so I definately need to pick up a trimmer plug and trim my cases back square to the proper length.  (whatta maroon!!)

I'm still gonna pick up a set of Hornady dies and another shellholder too.

Offline fastvfr

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« Reply #10 on: December 17, 2004, 08:40:07 PM »
Quote
I do admit to skipping a step in the process, I did not size the new cases and trim the case mouths square and to length.


Well! At first I thought your full-length resizer wasn't set up properly...but you admitted that you didn't use it!

And there's your problem. Full-length resizing is something I do to all new cases, regardless of manufacture, caliber, or whether I intend to neck-size from then on...I ALWAYS size them down.

Have you tried factory ammo yet? How about a box of .377-.379 component slugs to load?

BTW, I always use RCBS or Redding shellholders.
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Offline 95Road King

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« Reply #11 on: December 17, 2004, 09:08:50 PM »
There's nothing wrong with your die's!! Your skipping too many step's in reloading. You have to FULL LTH. size and you MUST FLARE the case mouth for bullet to start properly!!!! If you still have die's, try it.
    I had exactly the same problem. Hope you get it worked out!! :grin:  :grin:

Offline Leftoverdj

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« Reply #12 on: December 18, 2004, 06:37:55 AM »
Your bore is .379 so you need those .380 bullets to get accuracy from cast. Your chamber is too tight for those bullets with the cases you have. I'd neck turn those cases. I'm told that Marlin will open up the chamber neck on request. It's worth a phone call to see if  NEF will do likewise.

You might try backing your does out and only partially resizing. The coke bottle syndrome comes from the case mouth being way undersize for the bullet. Backing your dies out about half an inch should help by about .005. You might also call Lee and try to get the right size expander for .380 bullets.
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Offline elblerinnv

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Target model here--It's nice BUT...
« Reply #13 on: December 18, 2004, 04:21:02 PM »
Though I own and use several sets of Lee dies, my success with the .38-55 dies has been pretty poor.  I ran into all the problems you have, mainly because the sizer die excessively reduces case diameter.  This is compounded by the generous tolerances in the seating die, which leads to the ostrich-swallowing-an-orange look of the loaded rounded.  DJ's suggestion to back off the sizer works OK, if you back out two or three complete turns.  What worked better for me was the purchase of Lyman's neck size die for the .38-55, which is dimensioned for the larger cast bullets, at least mine is.  I think the Hornady seating die would also help some, but a Vickerman seater would work better.  Maybe a better solution would be RCBS Cowboy dies for .38-55.  Very nice machine work and polishing on those, and the dimensional relationships for cast bullets are correct.

Straight, or minimum taper cases are very dependent on positioning of the loaded case in the chamber.  generally speaking, this means that the outside diameter of the case just above the rim, and at the case neck, should be a as close a fit as safety and easy chambering and ejection will allow.  An excessively sized case, that lies on the bottom of the chamber, cocked by the fit of the bullet in the throat or larger case diameter at the mouth of the chamber is almost a sure recipe for poor accuracy with such a case design.  I find that my accuracy improves greatly by use of the neck sizer.

Lots of luck with that Target Model, and much joy of it.

Offline cheatermk3

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JPH45, your theory turns out to be correct
« Reply #14 on: December 18, 2004, 07:44:38 PM »
I spent a few hours today at the show looking for trimmer pilot, dies, shellholder, and bullets.  My wife found a few christmas gift items.  I didn't find dies but got an RCBS shellholder, trimmer pilot .368 dia., a partial box of Hornady .375 dia. 270gn spirepoint bullets (36 slugs/$5), and a box of factory Winchester ammo, 250gn rn (16.95 there were 2 boxes but I only wanted one, for comparison purposes).  

The factory rounds chambered fine and the rifle ejects a live round smartly.  The factory round I put my calipers on measured .392+, about .050 back from the case mouth.  The factory rounds show the coke bottle bulge, off center just like my first attempts, just not so much a bulge and strait in the case.   My best attempt with the Lee dies and RCBS shellholder look better than factory ammo in this respect, the bulge is very uniform around the case (eyeball "measure"), just more pronounced.    My rounds made with the .380" cast bullets measure .397".  The one round I made using the jacketed bullets worked fine too.  It is .392 just like the factory stuff (the cases on the factory rounds appear to have been annealed).  My apologies to the Lee company.

So, The bullets I'm using are too big for the chamber, in my cases.  You guys have already figured this out I see.  Kinda embarraskin' to be wanting to blame the dies for my own sloppy technique.  But, If I'd just shot factory ammo I may never have known this, or would have found out the more frustrating way by wondering why the rifle wouldn't shoot.  I'm guessing again here but I'm pretty sure that this piece will not shoot good with jacketed bullets.  I tried one of the Hdy bullets in the rifling by putting it point-first into the muzzle, it dropped about 2" into the bore and stopped, probably hung up on a piece of fouling left in the bore after I pushed a dry patch through it.  I was able to push it the rest of the way out the breech with ease using a 36 cal. ramrod.  So jacketed bullets are out with this barrel.

A fired round, one of my "crush fit" ones, comes out of the chamber at .397, same as a fired factory round.  Good thing I started real light on the powder charge because there can't be any room for my cases to expand upon firing, the bullets must be squirting outta the cases.  So, I need to open up the chamber a few thou (again you guys are ahead of me here but I needed to prove it to myself.  But you know by now that I'm a bit thick-headed).  I don't have a mandrel for my neck turner in .368 or whatever it needs to be for this case, and I don't want to go that route anyway; this would work but it's not a fix.

So, do I polish out the chamber or cut it, and if so how much.  I figure The .005 I'm over using the .380 bullets ought to be about right.  I wonder if I ought to rent a reamer that size, if they're available, or if I could do something else, like maybe make a cutter out of a fired case and turn it in the chamber with some 600 grit polishing compound.  Maybe an empty case with the primer pocket drilled out, and threaded for a socket head cap screw then chucked up in a drillmotor and spun slowly, maybe 150 rpm, for about 15-20 seconds at a time, then flushing it out and trying a case with a bullet seated in it.  Need to think about it some.  See what you guys think.


In the meanwhile, I want to shoot this thing and see how it'll shoot.  I've tried cutting back the length on the cases on the thought that since the chamber is tapered, I should be able to  trim them back to a point that the rounds I can make with the components I have will be an acceptable fit in my chamber.  I've cut one case back to 1.950" and it almost chambers the way it ought to.  I'll try cutting another one back to 1.930 next but this may not work either since the case walls thicken a bit as you get closer to the head.  Plenty of room in there for powder for cast bullet loads.  

Comments?

Offline Leftoverdj

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« Reply #15 on: December 19, 2004, 05:13:03 AM »
Fired cases are not an accurate indication of chamber size. You don't know how much to allow for springback. I do Cerrosafe chamber casts, but some fellows do impact casts and you would have the stuff around for that.

Shorten a case by the amount that a bullet would occupy and fill the case with alloy. When it is cool, drop a pure lead slug into the chamber and then your filled case. From the muzzle, you peck away at the slub with a cleaning rod with a patch holder or a brass screw in the rod. Don't really bang away, just hit it with a series of sharp taps for a few minutes. That will expand the lead to the chamber ID.

I would not consider polishing or lapping more than a thou. Two at the absolute most. Past that there is a near certainty you will get out of round or otherwise screw things up.

I'd call NEF and see if they would open the neck for you. If they won't, try Dave Manson, aka Manson Reamers. His stock neck and throaters are around $40 and you can get some or all of that back renting the reamer out after you have done yours. It gets a lot more expensive if you need a custom size.
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Offline cheatermk3

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« Reply #16 on: December 19, 2004, 02:48:45 PM »
I stayed up late last night and found that a loaded round on a sized case trimmed to 1.905" will chamber fine and eject.  Still lotsa room in the case for more powder (my reduced load is 25gn of data 2200 powder).  

  I cut 10 cases today and will cut a few more to sight in with and see if there's any potential here; I'll be busy doing this after work next week.   I tried 4 rounds with the bullet seated to the bottom of the top driving band and they worked fine, as far as function.  If I had to guess I'd say about 900fps with that .380 dia 240gn lazercast bullet.  I don't know how fast these can be pushed, I think 100fps is probably about it?  Anybody know?

I'll be getting the lockup problem fixed tuesday if everything goes right so hope to be shooting this thing for real, picking a load etc, soon.

Offline JPH45

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« Reply #17 on: December 19, 2004, 03:01:16 PM »
Check out www.midwayusa.com and look into jacketed bullets. There are a couple of makers who offer jacketed bullets .377 and .379 too I believe.
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Offline cheatermk3

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« Reply #18 on: December 20, 2004, 04:01:02 AM »
Thanks for the link JP!  I've been to Midway's site before and didn't see all those choices.  The local Sportsman's warehouse stocks the lazercast 255/.380 which is what I have now.  Those 260gn/.380 dia gas check bullets would work great I bet.  

One thing I haven't thought much about but may consider is trying to get Bi-Mart to get me another rifle in the hope that it has a tighter bore.  Probably not what I'll do since I like the one I have fine except for the tight chamber/max bore issue.  For now I'll be shooting it with the shortened cases.  If it turns out to be a dog then I'll pursue the other options.

Offline Cottonwood

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« Reply #19 on: December 20, 2004, 04:44:33 AM »
Quote from: cheatermk3
Thanks for the link JP!  I've been to Midway's site before and didn't see all those choices.  The local Sportsman's warehouse stocks the lazercast 255/.380 which is what I have now.  Those 260gn/.380 dia gas check bullets would work great I bet.  

One thing I haven't thought much about but may consider is trying to get Bi-Mart to get me another rifle in the hope that it has a tighter bore.  Probably not what I'll do since I like the one I have fine except for the tight chamber/max bore issue.  For now I'll be shooting it with the shortened cases.  If it turns out to be a dog then I'll pursue the other options.


I just have some questions for you, and this is not to insult you in any way, but have you slugged your bore yet?

When you first dropped your cases in they fit just fine... then the typical coke-bottle look I'm used to seeing with handloaded straight-wall cases.  Have you expanded the case mouth wide enough?

This is funny because I load ONLY straight walled cases and NEVER get this, with the exception one time when I was trying to load an oversize dia bullet into one of my sized 45-70 cases.  I had just started to cast bullets and I thought my cast bullets were fine but they ended up micking at .460/461 dia not good when you need a 458/459 dia bullet.  

Turns out these were too hard to even resize down to the proper dia.  In turn I was getting case buldging and yes that coke bottle look and loaded cases that would not want to even chamber in the Buffalo Classic chamber/bore.  I would even get this expanding the case mouth more.

Then you said: They chamber, but VERY snugly; It took WAY too much effort to close the action and they had to be coaxed out with a rod.

This is deffently a sign of oversize bullets for your bore and or your case mouth is not properly sized down to fit the chamber.  Did you re-run the loaded case up into the sizing die to give it a tapper crimp or soft crimp, this can bring the case mouth down more.

You do what you want, but if it were me, I would TRY a .379 dia bullet, and if that still doesn't work try the .377 dia.... you may want to see if others who are shooting the 38-55 will share some to let you test them, it won't hurt.  I would try this before even considering taking my rifle back.

Now here is a posting from a guy at SASS about the 38-55 Target Model:

The H&R 38-55 bore generally likes the .380 to .381 bullet but the chamber likes the .379 or .378 much better.

If you try to get the .380 to work in the stock chamber you will likely get hang ups. (no ejection)

Use a chamber reamer to touch things up and everything will work just fine.

Now all things considered, I learned a bit doing some research for the 38-55 cartridge  :oops:

So before you take your rifle back you may want to use a chamber reamer to fix the tightness or just use a .379 since I belive the bore will slug to .3759 dia.


JMHO

Offline cheatermk3

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« Reply #20 on: December 20, 2004, 07:03:08 AM »
Let me start by again thanking everyone that has responded to my posts about this rifle.  I'm way further down the road to getting this gun to shoot than I would be without your input.  Also, I know that I've done some sloppy work making ammo.  

I hope no-one reading this thread takes my methods out of context; I know I'm playing with awesome forces that must be understood and respected.  

I began this project with several preconceptions some of which turned out to be correct, others not.  One was that the chamber would be on the generous side.  It appears not to be, although I have only inferred this, I know I need to take a cast of it and I will.  I'm going to guess that the chamber casting will measure no more than .400".  

I have not slugged the bore the full length, only the last 3/4" or so, whatever the length of the driving surface of the lazercast .380" dia bullet I stuffed into the bore from the muzzle.  This bullet measured .380 before I tapped it into the bore, and .379 major/.376 minor diameter measured with a groove mike, after I tapped it back out.  I have yet to push a bullet all the way through the bore; if you say that this is the proper procedure, than I will reconsider doing just that.  The fact that I can push a .375 dia Hornady Jacketed bullet all the way through the bore without it being engraved by the lands, I mean I can push it through by hand using a ramrod from a 36 cal muzzleloader, with no more effore than it takes to push a tight-fitting patch through a fouled bore, less even, is what convinced me that jacketed bullets of standard .375 diameter are not for this gun.  

Then again, I did not take a reading on the jacketed bullet, just went by what the Hornady numbers on the box were.  I will repeat this with a bullet I have miked first.  I would love to be able to shoot both jacketed and cast bullets in this rifle, obviously.  I'm just not willing to shoot bullets that are so small they aren't grabbed by the lands.  

I'm not even close to wanting to give up and send it to the factory, I really like the piece and it's got a sweet trigger, to boot.  I may just wind up shooting short-cased ammo in it.  But what's probably gonna happen is that I get the proper sized reamer to bump up the diameter of the chamber a bit to allow full length cases with .380 dia bullets to fit properly.

I'm quite willing to try some smaller dia. bullets if someone would offer to send me some I would be grateful.

Offline Cottonwood

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Target model here--It's nice BUT...
« Reply #21 on: December 20, 2004, 07:43:41 AM »
cheatermk3

I want you to do something.......... keep driving at this to perfect it.  You know if I had listened to those that have REAL expensive single shot rifles before, I never would have discovered many things about the Buffalo Classic as I did, and most importantly that it can SHOOT real good, close range and well as Long Range  :shock:

I think when your done, you will have one fine shooting rifle there.

This is all a learning process  :D

Offline cheatermk3

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The Plan (revision II)
« Reply #22 on: December 21, 2004, 07:53:10 AM »
I called H&R customer service number this morning and had a good conversation with Doug(?) and Gordon.  Their spec. for the bore is .379max for groove dia and .373 min for land dia.  So, I'm in spec.  I took a casting of the chamber, using cerrosafe.  Neat stuff.  my chamber OAL is 2.205".  the "neck" area of the chamber mikes out at .400", plus a bit.  So I'm on spec there too, according to their numbers, even a bit large.  Gordon quoted the twist rate to be 1 turn in 18".  He suggested trying factory ammo and if it don't shoot to send it in.  He also said that the way my gun closes is how it's supposed to be(not sure he's right there but I'll see how it fits after a few hundred rounds).   I'm not going to send the rifle anywhere unless I've exhausted all other options, short of actually altering the piece.  I've had too many of these guns shoot great not to believe this one will too.

I just ordered a mandrel in 375 caliber for my outside neck turning tool and I'm sure that this will solve the problems I'm having with my handloads not fitting my chamber.  This will be a one-time fix for my brass so now all I need to do is wait a few days for the mandrel to arrive and I'll be in business.  I'll need to shave .0025 off the case walls, not a problem.  A belated tip of the reloader's hat to leftoverdj, and all, you guys handed me the answer I'm just a bit stubborn, I guess.    

Also, probably need to change my screen name to "Windy Thickskull".

Offline quickdtoo

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Target model here--It's nice BUT...
« Reply #23 on: December 21, 2004, 08:10:13 AM »
:-D  :D
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain