Author Topic: Synthetic vs Dino who's runnin what? (Read 1667 times)

Stock02 · « **on:** February 21, 2004, 10:08:37 AM »

OK here is one that has almost a religious sect type following surrounding it.
Who runs synthetic oil in their rides and who runs dino? Feel free to explain why ya run what ya run.

DirtyHarry · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2004, 04:56:06 PM »

Stock02
I run synthetic in everything I own, all the way down to my lawn tractor.
The reason why is simple, all the evidence is in, it is a vastly superior lubricant in every aspect. The drain intervals are longer, so those who say it cost too much are just kidding themselves.
Also dont forget the filter, you need to use a good quality filter. There is no sense in running Amsoil or Mobile1 and using low quality filter, and all the studies I have read scream STAY AWAY FROM FRAM.

WD45 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2004, 06:51:31 AM »

I run mobile one myself ... one thing I have noticed with the synthetics is how much easier an engine cranks in the winter, along with some of the other things already listed in the other posts.
I will also echo every recent oil filter study I have seen said stay away from FRAM.

Chris B. · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2004, 10:26:12 PM »

Hi Guys,

If you want to learn the facts and de-bunk the myths about oil do a little reading at www.bobistheoilguy.com. The info there on oil is amazing! I hope it is ok to post the link? I'm in no way linked to them, just trying to pass on a good thing! Enjoy fellas!

rwng · « **Reply #4 on:** February 26, 2004, 11:34:52 AM »

I have only run synthetic in one vehicle and that was because the previous owner used it. That same vehicle has been switched back to Dino. My last 4 vehicles (including the 2 I still have) went over 145,000 miles. My two current have 228,000 and 232,000+ miles on them. I change oil about every 6,000 miles. I guess my vote goes to dino.

Redhawk1 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 26, 2004, 12:06:19 PM »

I will have to stick with dino, I change oil and filter every 3000 miles. I have never had any motor problems. I have seen no real reason to change.

Chris B. · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2004, 03:16:36 PM »

I used to be a 3000 mile oil changer untill I found the oil site and found out how Syn works. I go a full 10,000 miles on Mobil 1 syn and my wear is lower then my old 3,000 mile oil drains. How do I know this? I did several used oil analysis to figuer this out and it showed lower wear!!! Syns are great and they truly leave you engine much cleaner with no build up. Plus you will save your self $$ buy extending the drain and spend less time under your car! :grin:
Do yourself a favor and do a little reading and you will be amazied! :wink:

Stock02 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 11, 2004, 02:55:32 PM »

Chris B. I've done lots of reading at BITOG and will continue my 3k OCI. I like being under my truck!

Chris B. · « **Reply #8 on:** March 11, 2004, 03:17:23 PM »

3,000 mile oil changes are fine and have been for a long time! Extending the drain with syns is one way of saving your $$. I think the main reason I like syns is they are much cleaner and will keep you engine that way vs. even 3000 mile dino changes.

If I ever go back to dino oil I would use Halvoline as I had great wear with it in My LS1 Camaro durring break in.

May I ask why you decided to stay with dino?

Stock02 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 11, 2004, 03:36:48 PM »

First : I have a hard time getting myself to go much over 3k even when I did run M1.
Second : I've gotten well over 500k of trouble free miles on my vehicles to date running dino.
Third : I do a fair amount of offroading and use the OCI to keep an eye on my undercarriage and hit the zerks.
Fourth : The oil I'm using Castrol Syntec Blend (which I've used for yrs) has put up very respectable UOAs.
Fifth : My engine is quieter with dino vs M1
Sixth : I run only Toyotas!
Seventh : Todays dino oils are not what they used to be.

Thats enough reasons for me.

Chris B. · « **Reply #10 on:** March 11, 2004, 04:22:56 PM »

Those are good reasons! Syns are not for everyone and dino has also come a long way! Do you ever have you oil analyzed?

I might try Redline soon as it is supposed to be unstopable retaining it's TBN, even better then M1, Amsoil ect.

One day I hope to find the holy grail of oil!

Yeah right!

DirtyHarry · « **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2004, 04:33:13 PM »

The two main reasons I run synthetic are

1. They flow at a much much lower temp than any conventional or conventional blend, and cold starts is where you get the vast majority of engine wear.

2. High temp performance, synthetcis remain stable at a far higher temp than any conventional or blend.

Also from personal experience, after running 20w50 dino in our late mod dirt track car for two years, then switching to all synthetics (with a complete teardown and rebuild between seasons) we found from keeping written records of ALL measurements that we had significantly less wear on rings, bearings, cyl walls etc... with the synthetic, and as an added bonus after changing the engine, trans and rear diff to synthetic lube we found that we were able to free up an additional 12 hp according to the dyno.
That's good enough for me....

raynor · « **Reply #12 on:** March 27, 2004, 01:35:34 PM »

In my gassers, Amsoil Series 2000 5w30 with 25,000 mile drain intervals and filters changes every 12,500. (Amsoil filters) Never a problem in over 100,000 miles.

In the Dodge diesel 3500, Amsoil Series 3000 5w30. Plan on going 50,000 before a drain with analysis, and filter changes every 5000 miles. (Fleetgaurd filters)

Definately money in my pocket using synthetics. ~~ raynor

DeerMeadowFarm · « **Reply #13 on:** August 04, 2004, 03:57:17 AM »

I have a 95 Chevy K2500 that I bought last December with only 58K on it. It has the 5.7 and it's geared pretty low which is great for towing but not so great on commuting! My nephew convinced me to swap to synthetic. I run Mobil 1 and since I made the change I have gained 1 to 1.5 miles per gallon more. I think this is a pretty significant increase as nothing was changed it had to be the oil. I am thinking of changing my differential and transmission fluid to synthetic when the change comes as well.
Just my $.02

MSP Ret · « **Reply #14 on:** August 23, 2004, 04:52:14 PM »

Hey DeerMeadowFarm where in Mass are you? I swear I have driven by or seen that name somewhere in my travels...(I live on Cape Cod but have travelled the entire state for work, and by the way I shoot a .280 and reload, I also shoot traditional archery and have a camp in Maine). Now my Question to those in the know...I have a '96 318 Dodge Ram P/U with 67,xxx miles. I bought it new and have changed the oil (Dino) every 3,000 miles since new. I want to go to synthetic. Which brand and what weight do you guys suggest? Would a blend be better? It's main use is a highway vehicle between my home and camp about 350 miles away in north-central Maine...Thanks for any suggestions (what about going to synthetic tranny and rear end oil this late? I'd like to do it if it's not to late...)....<><.... :grin:

MSP Ret · « **Reply #15 on:** August 27, 2004, 05:56:00 AM »

BTT......

, still hoping to some information, preferences, opinions on which sythetic oil to run in MY 96 Dodge Ram w/318 engine. 67,xxx miles, owned it since new with Dino oil changed every 3,000 miles since new...The time is rapidly approaching for an oil change and would appreciate any and all comments...Thanks....<><.... :grin:

DirtyHarry · « **Reply #16 on:** August 27, 2004, 02:06:52 PM »

MSP, I would absolutely switch to synthetic. I personally run Mobil-1 and/or Amsoil in everything I own. You will not be required to change oil every 3000 either. In my daily drivers I run about 9000 between changes and from the oil analysis' i've had done I could have went longer than that. Some of the Amsoil products have recommended changes at 25,000 miles or 1 year intervals.
I would definitely switch the differential fluids to syn as well. I would change the tranny fluid to syn only if it has been serviced at regular intervals and is in a good state of repair. The reason is if there is any problem in the tranny it could be perpetuated by the use of synthetic fluid.
I suggest running 10W/30 in the summer, and depending on how cold it get's there in the winter either the same 10w/30 or 5w/30 if it get's really cold.

MSP Ret · « **Reply #17 on:** August 28, 2004, 07:04:05 AM »

Thanks DH, It only gets to about 0 here but at my camp it gets into the -25 and below range ( :shock: ) so I may go with the amzoil 5-30.
Regarding the filter I guess its anything but Fram right? Is there any special filter I should try to get? I have not have the tranny serviced at all because the dealership recommended against it, just had it checked at regular intervals but I have had no tranny related problems (like many Dodge guys have, knock on wood). I have a heavy duty tow package and my truck is plow rated and has the heavy duty suspension package but it is a personal use vehicle that never gets abused. 95+% of it's miles are highway miles between my home and camp, approximately 700 mile round trip and average of 300 miles side trips per camp visit for about 1,000 miles per trip...Bought it new in December of '95 and put it on the road in January of '96. Almost 9 years old with an average of 6-7 trips to camp each year.
I would like to go synthetic in the tranny and differentials but if you reccommend against it I'll just go with the engine for now. I Would appreciate your further views on tranny and/or differential synthetic, if not tranny perhaps just the differentials?
Thanks the reply and the help....<><.... :grin:

DirtyHarry · « **Reply #18 on:** August 30, 2004, 01:41:33 PM »

Yes anything but fram, I run mostly K&N filters but if you want to broaden your choices check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ You will find out a lot of info on oil and filters. If your tranny is in good condition you should have no problems. If the rear has a locking diff you will need a friction modifier additive from dodge or you can run royal purple diff fluid in the rear which already has the additive. The front you can run any synthetic you want(no additive needed). The transfer case will most likely use atf so you should be able to use the same synthetic tranny fluid in the transfer case that you use in the tranny.

MSP Ret · « **Reply #19 on:** August 30, 2004, 02:33:20 PM »

Thanks DH, and yes I do have a locking rear differential plus the 4 wheel drive. I ordered it that way even though the salesman said if I had 4wd I would not need a locking (posi-trak) rear end but those in the know seemed to think otherwise. I will do the replacement with synthetics over the next month or less and let you know how it worked out. Thanks for all your help....<><.... :grin:

tomaldridge · « **Reply #20 on:** December 21, 2004, 08:01:30 AM »

I run 125 miles daily back and forth to work, 85% Interstate, 10%secondary, the rest back road. My wife runs the same distance every day. Our son drove our vehicles for 5 years. My vehicles get fresh oil and a new Fram filter every 3000 miles. They get a new Fram air filter every 6000 miles. Since 1989, I have had:

1989 Escort 276,000 miles (purchased new, sold in 2000)
1990 Ranger 283,000 miles (purchased new, sold in 2003)
1995 Escort 212,000 (purchased new, sold in 2003)
1995 Escort #2 98,000 and still going strong (33,000 when purchased)
2000 Cherokee 94,000 and still going strong (34,000 when purchased)
1996 F 250 120,000 and still going strong (100,000 when purchased)

That's 916,000 miles on Castrol & Fram. Of course, most of those miles are at turnpike speeds. I sell my cars when the fuel economy drops 15-20%, so there isn't a whole lot of life left in them. Still, I'm open to logic.....what's wrong with Fram?

DirtyHarry · « **Reply #21 on:** December 21, 2004, 05:24:56 PM »

Whats right with fram? for starters they use cardboard end caps and they are glued in place, the anti drain back seal is weak and usually leaks,(that allows dirty unfiltered oil drain back into the pan) plastic bypass valves that are usually not molded correctly, etc etc.....

The biggest red flag for me is that I drive a Dodge with a Cummins and Cummins has stated that if you run a fram on that engine your warranty is void. The reason is that there have been several instances where the fram filter has come apart and ruined engines. Thats good enough for me to stay away from fram..........