Author Topic: i know there is a glock armorer on this board..... (Read 3663 times)

myronman3 · « **on:** March 21, 2011, 03:31:51 PM »

having and issue with two 10mm's, failing to put enough of an indent on the primer to set it off. they are cci primers; which i know are hard. a glock should be able to fire the primer, and both guns have been shot alot. i am thinking a spring may need to be replaced. which spring should i be looking at?

Glock Doctor · « **Reply #1 on:** March 21, 2011, 04:28:19 PM »

This is an easy one! Your Glocks MUST be Gen3 pistols - Right! I'm going to guess that they're, also, G-20's.

Suggest you contact Wolff Gunsprings. Order their '+ power' 6# FP spring. If you want to set up your G-20's like I have my own G-21's set up, order a 6# trigger return spring, too.

Here ya go - http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=1&mID=5#131

If you want to really smooth out the recoil on a G-20 and improve primer ignition even more add a non-captured Wolff Gunsprings steel guide rod, too. My own G-21's are set up to fire 45 SUPER. I've just given you the 3 things you need to get your big Glocks to run really well.

The only other thing you need is a 4.5# connector. I recommend Lone Wolf Distributors. Do these 4 things and your combined trigger pull weight will remain approximately the same; or it might, in fact, even improve. (The pull's going to be slightly heavier; but, the reset will be quicker and surer - OK!)

If you need to know how to disassemble and reassemble a Glock contact me again.

myronman3 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 22, 2011, 01:55:29 AM »

thanks a bunch! one gun is mine, and one is my brothers. i had the problem first. i was asking him if he had the problem, and he said no. later that day, we came across two porqupines in a tree. while he was drawing down on his, he had the problem. needless to say he blamed me for putting a hex on his gun. lol. i figured with both guns being 20's, and having been fired more than the average gun, it would be a issue common with the model.
i really appreciate the information!

myronman3 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 22, 2011, 02:23:26 AM »

i dont see the 6# trigger return spring...i see an std (standard) trigger spring, and i see a xp (extra power??) trigger spring?

Savage · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2011, 08:40:31 AM »

While you're at it, clean out the firing pin channel with solvent and pipe cleaners. Oil and gunk in the firing pin channel are the number one cause of light strikes in a Glock.
Savage

myronman3 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 22, 2011, 12:13:53 PM »

savage... that was the first thing we did. mine was pretty clean and so was his. we even checked the firing pin for burrs or other things that might inhibit the gun from working. we found nothing broken, dirty, or out of place; no rough edges, either.
after checking out the about, common sense suggested a harder primer strike was needed, but i figured it would be worth it to ask the experts. i appreciate both of your advice.

Savage · « **Reply #6 on:** March 22, 2011, 02:00:02 PM »

Myronman3
Glad you checked out the channel first. You'd be surprised how many times I've seen this problem. When you replace the firing pin spring, replace the cups and channel liner. I have seen occasional light strikes due to damaged parts here as well.
One other thing, examine the primers on your misfires for off center strikes. If your strikes are noticeably off center your pistol may not be going all the way into battery. This can be caused by a combination of a dirty pistol or a weak recoil spring. Chamber check your ammo to insure it not the cause of the problem as well. A new/heavier recoil spring may solve the problem if your ammo is in spec.
Good shooting!
Savage

Glock Doctor · « **Reply #7 on:** March 29, 2011, 03:56:42 PM »

Quote from: myronman3 on March 22, 2011, 02:23:26 AM

i dont see the 6# trigger return spring...i see an std (standard) trigger spring, and i see a xp (extra power??) trigger spring?

Sorry, I should have seen this sooner. Wolff, 'extra power' is the 6# spring. (Standard weight is 5# (5.5#) on all Glocks.)

midwayraider · « **Reply #8 on:** April 28, 2011, 04:20:20 PM »

Had the same problem with a model 37 (45 GAP) shipped it back to Glock , new springs , problem solved.

Bugflipper · « **Reply #9 on:** April 30, 2011, 02:18:29 PM »

It is also going to increase the trigger pull weight as you know. May look into 3.5 lb disconectors if the 6lb pull is to much.That would reduce a gen 3 with xp to 4 lb pull. That is just about right.

bustedknee · « **Reply #10 on:** May 23, 2011, 10:28:02 PM »

Do not oil the firing pin channel on a Glock!

It will collect dust, become gummy and the firing pin will not hit the primer with enough force to cause ignition.

Sound familiar?

Have you cleaned it (before replacing anything)?

myronman3 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 24, 2011, 06:14:13 PM »

did ya read the entire thread?

bustedknee · « **Reply #12 on:** May 25, 2011, 02:26:54 PM »

Quote from: myronman3 on May 24, 2011, 06:14:13 PM

did ya read the entire thread?

Yep. Sorry I posted. I did not realize you already knew everything. (including my experience)

If you need an excuse to replace the springs, let me help, You need Wolf springs!

Keith L · « **Reply #13 on:** May 25, 2011, 02:38:23 PM »

Quote from: bustedknee on May 25, 2011, 02:26:54 PM

Quote from: myronman3 on May 24, 2011, 06:14:13 PM
did ya read the entire thread?

Yep. Sorry I posted. I did not realize you already knew everything. (including my experience)

If you need an excuse to replace the springs, let me help, You need Wolf springs!

I think he was telling you that the knowledge you offered was offered a few posts above. No need to get huffy about it. In fact if it happens again your post will disappear. We don't do flaming around here. This looks like it could lead to flames.

Fred McIntire · « **Reply #14 on:** July 01, 2011, 07:54:33 PM »

As a GLOCK Certified Armorer, I'll have to say there are a lot of scary things going on here in this thread. I would strongly advise you to have a GLOCK Certified Armorer inspect and repair your GLOCK pistol. You are delving into disassembly and replacement of parts that, not done properly, could cause serious bodily injury, or death.

GLOCK Certified Armorer Policy on Professionalism

GLOCK Certified Armorers have long been known for their professionalism and expertise. The purpose of certification of GLOCK Armorers is to facilitate the professional handling of required maintenance of GLOCK pistols. More specifically, it is our intention that only GLOCK Certified Armorers work on GLOCK pistols. It is the belief of GLOCK, Inc. that this policy best ensures the safety of GLOCK customers and the integrity of GLOCK pistols.

Once you understand the operation of the GLOCK pistol, you'll realize why all these after market parts are simply not needed.

Parts should never be polished or filed down !

Fred McIntire
GLOCK Certified Armorer

Savage · « **Reply #15 on:** July 02, 2011, 02:26:09 PM »

Quote from: Fred McIntire on July 01, 2011, 07:54:33 PM

As a GLOCK Certified Armorer, I'll have to say there are a lot of scary things going on here in this thread. I would strongly advise you to have a GLOCK Certified Armorer inspect and repair your GLOCK pistol. You are delving into disassembly and replacement of parts that, not done properly, could cause serious bodily injury, or death.

GLOCK Certified Armorer Policy on Professionalism

GLOCK Certified Armorers have long been known for their professionalism and expertise. The purpose of certification of GLOCK Armorers is to facilitate the professional handling of required maintenance of GLOCK pistols. More specifically, it is our intention that only GLOCK Certified Armorers work on GLOCK pistols. It is the belief of GLOCK, Inc. that this policy best ensures the safety of GLOCK customers and the integrity of GLOCK pistols.

Once you understand the operation of the GLOCK pistol, you'll realize why all these after market parts are simply not needed.

Parts should never be polished or filed down !

Fred McIntire
GLOCK Certified Armorer

Man, that's straight out of the manual!
Fred,
Regardless of the propaganda, Glock parts are not magic or special. They are good solid mass produced parts that generally work just fine. There are tons of aftermarket parts available that are better. In my opinion, there is no great skill or knowledge required for replacing any broken/malfunctioning parts, or installing purpose specific aftermarket ones. One of the Glock strong points is it's simplicity. Most can understand the operating system and maintenance of the platform in a couple of hours. Of course attending the armorer's course is a great way to socialize for two days on the dept's dime.
Savage

Fred McIntire · « **Reply #16 on:** July 04, 2011, 06:11:52 PM »

Savage;

Do you want to trust your life to a person that thinks it will work when you need it, or do you want it to work when you need it to work ?

Savage · « **Reply #17 on:** July 05, 2011, 03:45:39 AM »

Fred,
I get where you're coming from. I'm just saying, it's not "Rocket Surgery"!

Savage

myronman3 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 07, 2011, 03:52:07 AM »

do you know what it takes to become a "glock certified armourer"? i do. a couple hours online taking a class on a computer. big whoop. while i am a bit dismissive about what it takes to become a "glock certified armourer", i did ask the resident glock experts here for their experience and knowlege; which i KNOW they didnt get out of a manual. i was after their real life, hands on experience and knowlege. thanks to those who came through.
one of my duties while serving was to be the assistant armourer for my company. so i have been through military armourer classes...and the thing about guns is, they are all pretty much the same. kinda like working on cars. as long as you have a manual, the proper tools, and follow the instructions... it isnt brain surgery.
i ordered the springs, and they are installed on my gun. i havent had a chance to test it out extensively yet, but i will.

Graybeard · « **Reply #19 on:** November 26, 2019, 05:10:57 AM »