Author Topic: how easy is it to glass bed a boltaction rifle? (Read 1229 times)

thelaw · « **on:** January 29, 2005, 01:47:38 PM »

thinking about trying to glass bed a synthetic stock in the action and recoil lug area. is this something the average person can do, or is it better left for a gunsmith? i just recently refinished a couple of rifles with duracoat and have painted a rifle or two, but never tried glassbedding.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 29, 2005, 08:57:58 PM »

There is a lot of detail but most can learn to do it.. If you go about it in an organized way and step by step you will do OK.. If you lack patience then perhaps a good smith is the way to go..

corelokt308win · « **Reply #2 on:** January 31, 2005, 03:23:17 AM »

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/

The above is one of many sites that will be helpfull. Having used only the Brownells kits I can say they come with good instructions. Try searching some of the gun sites as well, as this is a common subject.

24Hourcampfire
HuntAmerica
ShootersForum

These as well as Greybeards are my favorites. I can lose the better part of a day at these sites. A good thing when stuck inside in the winter.

Bearwolf31 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 31, 2005, 04:15:13 PM »

I've been wondering this myself as I have seen the Brownells acraglass and acraglass gel kits for 17-18$. I wonder if it would be worth doing the Butler Creek synthetic stocks that come on my howa 1500's??

Racepres · « **Reply #4 on:** January 31, 2005, 04:39:32 PM »

The first one I did was on a very crappy old stock cause I didn't know how it was gonna go... since I refinished the whole thing after bedding it was quite simple. I would certainly say that if you desire it and are patient you can do it. However ... What does the stuff do to synthetics

? Don't think I would want to refinish one, so be very careful of the finish (outside of course). Maybe use a bit less than you think is necessary just to avoid "overflow" . I would also "thicken" it alot since this makes it a bit easier to work with . and finally take yer time this stuff is really slow to set up. Good luck ... Marty

gunnut69 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 01, 2005, 12:10:15 PM »

I would certainly be cautious about getting the bedding material on any synthetic surface. Bedding compounds will damage ANY stock finish I've seen.. even the tough remington RKW finish. For safeties sake cover the entire surface of the stock up to the edge of the bedding. When doing the bedding the overflow can safely be removed with a plastic knife made from a toothbrush handle as soon as it's reached the satge where it no longer runs. I also don't know how the bedding will react to the 'rubber' in an overmolded stock.

Tom H. · « **Reply #6 on:** February 01, 2005, 12:30:16 PM »

Law,

Which action?

A 700ADL is really pretty simple as is a m70 with no bottom metal. A Ruger 77 on the other hand is a hastle due to the angled guard screw.

You can always do your bedding in multiple steps and that should work out. (front, back, bottom metal)

In addition, don't rip out all of the old bedding, leave a few (recoli lug area and tang) small areas (really small) to act as a stop when socking the action down to the correct depth. Just remember, loosen the screws slightly after bottoming.

I coat my actions with shoe polish. Much thinner than the paint on release agent.

Tom

Flash · « **Reply #7 on:** February 01, 2005, 02:13:23 PM »

thelaw, would you please share your experiences with Duracoat and where you bought it? I often thought about coating a firearm with bake on finish and would love to hear more about it. What ever you do when glass bedding is to use plenty of release agent. Acraglass and Acragel will bond your action to your stock and one or both will be ruined in attempting to separate them. I have bedded a Kevlar stock by Bell & Carlson with great results but never bedded a synthetic/plastic stock.

thelaw · « **Reply #8 on:** February 02, 2005, 04:30:38 AM »

thanks for the bedding info. right now i've decided to get my older adl stock, which has already been glassbedded, refinished. the wood is just too pretty to leave locked up in a closet.

flash,
the duracoat seems to have worked pretty well so far. i purchased it from lauerweaponry.com. the 4oz. bottle i purchased easily coated my 700 barrel/action, nef handi and a S&W .357. i still have a small amount left over. you have to remove all grease and oil from your firearm. its best to break down the firearm as far as you can. i bought a little cheap "testor" air sprayer from walmart over in toys by the model airplanes. it doesn't run real easy, unless you apply too much at one time. the stuff does buildup just a little though, so for high tolerance areas, like actions, i wouldn't apply a whole lot. barrels, bolt handles and such i put several coats on. you don't want to get any inside the chamber for sure. you do not have to remove the blueing to apply duracoat. the only down side of duracoat, is that it takes a couple of weeks for it to fully cure. you can handle it about an hour after applying though. i'm not real crafty, but am very impressed with the way my 3 guns turned out.

SeaBass · « **Reply #9 on:** February 13, 2005, 06:05:19 AM »

If you go to Brownell's and look up the acraglass kit you can pull up (and print if you like) the 10 page intruction booklet for bedding.

kombi1976 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 15, 2005, 01:51:59 PM »

I've got the Acraglass Gel kit, that cost me $55 here in Australia!!! :eek:
How many rifles will it bed?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 15, 2005, 08:09:26 PM »

How big are the containers? Even the standard kit will do several, depending on how much fill in you do..