Author Topic: Forearm ??'s  (Read 590 times)

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Offline MIdeerhunter

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Forearm ??'s
« on: February 24, 2005, 11:41:13 AM »
I have 3 NEF Guns, a .223 handi with laminated stock, a laminated 12 ga. ultra slug hunter deluxe, and a 12 ga. pardner...i noticed something the other day, the forearm part where it touches the metal isn't finished is it?(barrel channel) It felt like bare wood...well her in Michigan the weather isn't as nice as it shoulld be....lol it rains a lot so i figured that the rain could get into the wood, well i had a idea...sand out the channel a little bit and use helmsman outdoor ployurethae sealer to seal out the moisture...i have heard of using wax on the outer finish of the wood...what type of wax should i suse and are the barrel channels finished and i just cant tell if it is...? Thank you in advance! :-)
New England Fireams Tracker II plus (USHD) 12 ga
.223 handi rifle
1903A3 Springfield in 6mm rem.
rem. 870 supermag
ruger 10/22
win. x-150
winchester model 88
savage 24

Offline quickdtoo

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Forearm ??'s
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2005, 11:53:14 AM »
I seal the stocks of all my firearms with BC Tru-oil, it works fine and is easy to do. If it works here in the Pacific NW, it will work anywhere!
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Offline Joel

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« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2005, 08:27:49 PM »
All my rifles/shotguns get refinished used Watco's Teak Oil; a marine oil finish for teak/mahagony etc.  Along with the outside, the barrel channel and end of the butt also get finished.  Any sort of outdoor/poly floor  finish will seal well, along with the usual gun type finishes like TruOil...really up to you.  I also wax my stocks/metal with renaissance wax available from most knife supply catalogs.  It dries almost instantly and to a subdued sheen...really brings out the wood grain.  Expensive stuff, but since I use it on knives also, I have it around.

Offline Mac11700

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« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2005, 06:05:52 AM »
I use Mothers Carnauba wax sealer on my stocks...I'm in the mid-west...not like Quick up in the North-west...so...It's not usually as wet here(thank goodness  :wink: ) ... it works real good...brings out a real good luster to the wood...and affords a fair level of protection...and I always break my shotguns and Handi's down after being out and clean them real well after hunting/shooting...if you do any sanding on them...then by all means re-seal them with True-oil or teak oil...

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Offline roostertails

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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2005, 06:58:20 AM »
Poly finishes are for furniture and Kitchen cabinets NOT gunstocks, seal the bare wood with 3 or 4 coats of tung oil finish cut 50/50 with mineral spirits, put this on all bare wood action area, barrel channel, under buttplate  outside of stock, etc. Then on the outside of the stock use several coats of the tungoil finished uncut rubbing with 0000 steel wool between every coat until the pours of the wood are filled, after the final coat of tung oil finish is applied and it is dry and the stock is rubbed down with the steel wool then apply 2 or 3 coats of "GB" LIN-SPEED, this finish can be applied and rubbed on with the heal of your hand, it will never get sticky like true oil does, you can actually rub the lin-speed until it is dry and it will never get sticky or tacky.
This type of finish will penetrate deep into the wood and offer more protection then the poly finished that just lay on top of the wood, if a poly finish is scratched moister can get into the wood through the scratch which has removed the finish from the stock in this area, if an oil finish is scratched the oil is still deep in the wood and moisture can not penetrate it, no need to wax the lin-speed finish, most waxes will look good but will also make the wood slick and harder to hang onto.

Offline Joel

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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2005, 07:45:58 PM »
I certainly wouldn't use a poly finish on the outside of a stock for sure, but since the discussion was about the barrel channel, poly does an excellant job there.  Used to use Tung Oil until I discovered Teak Oil, which is much easier to use and provides as good as or better penetration into the wood as Tung Oil.  Either works though.  I personally have no use for Lin-Speed having tried it over the years until I found better finishes...It tends to oxidize and turn  yellowish and eventually darken the wood;  but then just about all natural oil finishes I know do that....just not as badly as Lin-speed.   Happens so gradually, that most folks don't really notice happening.  Far as waxing goes, I have waxed my stocks for years with high quality waxes...not the thick junk varieties...and they help to keep the wood sealed, prevent drying and keep my guns looking good.  Don't recall much slippage.

Offline Sourdough

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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2005, 08:45:16 PM »
Hay! I seal mine the fast and easy way.  I take sand paper and clean out the barrel channel, I also clean the hole the bolt runs through in the stock and under the butt plate/recoil pad.  Then I spray them with matte poly finish.  I spray the whole stock and forearm, the barrel channel and the bolt hole.  Then I reinstall, after spraying the bolt too.  This way all the wood is sealed, till I dump the motorcycle, or tip the 4-wheeler.
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