reloadign set ups

[rickyp]

What type of reloadign set up are you using?
I am using for my 410 shells a MEC 600 Jr. for my 12 GA loads I have a set of rcbs shot shell dies that go in my reloading press.
I have had 2 of the lee loaders one was 12 GA and the other was 410. I found the 12 ga lee loader worked good but slow and the 410 loader was not all  that because I had to use a overshot card and roll crimp.

[Graybeard]

I started out my shotshell reloading career using MEC 600 JRs. Upgraded them to 700s by adding the primer feed and seems like some other minor change that I have now forgotten.

Moved from that to the Sizemaster 77 which is all I now have.

Am toying with the idea of a progressive but it seems a waste. I shoot so little now compared to the days of long ago when the single stage presses got the job done. Still time saved is time saved so may try a progressive later.

GB

[rickyp]

A progressive press is great if you will be shooting a lot of the same load, but if you want or need to change as seasons change then it is harder to use And way less versatile.

With the RCBS “dies” I can load almost any 12 ga load I need, granted it is very slow but I don’t shoot enough “normal” trap loads to worry about speed

[Mr. 16 gauge]

I have two MEC 600 Jrs, one in 12 gauge and the other in 16 gauge.  The 12 gauge model is almost 30 years old, and still going strong.  I use the charge bar/bottle set up only for loading target loads; all my hunting loads (steel, bismuth, & lead) are weighed out on a scale, both shot & powder charges.  I also have a LEE load all in 20 gauge, and again, I only use it to load target loads.

[Bob_K]

I started with a MEC 650, and would load once a year to meet my needs.  The hardest problem was I'd had to learn how to use it over again every year.  I upgraded to the Grabber model because I was using more than one shotgun, and some of my reloads would hiccup without sizing the head.  Most recently (as I transitioned from competition rifle and pistol and into trap & skeet) I've upgraded to the MEC 9000H.  I also have a Steelmaster for 12 ga, 3.5" shells, with the short kit to do 3" shells.  The single stage presses are fine for the volume of hunting shells I load.

It is true that the progressives are best when set up for one shell and load, but with some practice the adjustments are not too difficult.  Experience gives one a feel for the adjustments and the degree they need to be changed.  For higher volume shooting like trap & skeet, nothing beats a progressive.

One thing I've done for all my MECs is to get the adjustable charge bar.  Saves a bunch on individual charge bars and powder bushings, plus I can adjust for the volume differences between mangum and chilled shot, and for various powder lots.

[Straight Shooter]

I have MEC Sizemasters in 12, 20, 28, and .410.  My Dad has Grabbers in those four gauges.  There is definately a bigger learning curve with the progressive machines.  I have used the Lee loaders before as well as the 600 Jr's.  For the money I don't think you can go wrong with the Sizemasters.

[George Foster]

I have two Mec 600JRS that I use to do all my reloading.  I bought a 20ga press in 1973 and then a 12ga press in 1974.  I have used the two presses every since and never had a problem with either one.  I recently upgraded them a little with the procheck on both.  I also put the new style final crimp die on my 20ga press and that really works nice.  I would tell anyone who is getting into reloading that the Mecs can't be beaten for the price.

[rickyp]

some times it is hard to keep resetting a progressive loader and some times it is next to impossible to use a progressive press.

Right now I am geared up to load slugs in a few weeks I will be getting ready for turkeys.

since I am using the RCBS "dies" all I have to do is put away any unused slugs and get a bag of 4 and 6 shot and be ready to go.
I can  load even the 3 1/2 inch shells  just by backing the dies out.
 
For making "special loads" or for someone that doesn't shoot a lot I feel the single  stage press cant be beat

[kamml]

I have a Versamec and 600 Jr., both 12 gauge.  They are excellent presses.  I am loading the Franchi hulls and have been having quite a time getting the final crimp station to turn out well crimped hulls.  The 8 fold seems to work better than the 6 fold.  I think I now have it set up correctly.  I am getting a gentle curve in at the top of the shell and about a 1/16" crease above the crimp fold.  Out of a hundred hulls I have thrown out about 20, crushed, too much fold, not enough fold, etc etc.. It seems that the secret is in the cam timing adjustment and the depth of the crimper together.  Will this eat shells every time it has to be setup or was this just my learning curve?   Anyone have similar problems, any quick solutions? Ken :?

[Graybeard]

I'm not real sure I fully understand what you are saying the problem is. You are trying to use the six and eight fold crimps only on hulls that had that many originally correct? Don't try to change what it orginally had.

Some hulls take a better crimp than others. If they have ever been reloaded in the past and the crimp was applied sloppily it may never crimp right again but some times will.

The cam adjustments should be a one time think if you get it all tightened down properly. It can be a little tricky to set up properly but once done it shouldn't require it again. If you are rolling in some that's a pretty tight crimp. OK but don't go anymore.  If I'm understanding all you wrote it sounds like you're pretty much right on the adjustment now.

One trick I learned long ago to help make a better crimp with hulls that want to mess up is to use two steps in the precrimp or next to last station on the MEC. First just run the handle down part way to begin to set the folds and make sure all is properly aligned. Then raise it and lower fully. I also found some hulls like only a partial set of the folds and then move it on to the final crimp without ever lowering handle all the way at the next to last station. Just something you have to play with on different hulls. I guess I've loaded about every kind out there at one time or another.

GB

[rickyp]

You can try getting a “hall reconditoner” it is a little cone that chucks in your drill and should help the crimp. If you don’t already you may want to try an over shot card. this will give some support when you are applying the crimp

[kamml]

:grin: I think I have it set up about right, and thanks for the advice.  I was using brand new hulls with no crimp whatsoever that is why I tried both crimp fold counts.  I wasn't paying much attention to the crimp initially until I start reading about how important it is.  At that point I understood the importance of the taper and its relationship to final crimp.  Thus the extra fiddling around to get it right.  The hulls I am using are  67mm. long.  AA are 69mm., thus the extra fooling around with the crimper height and cam with the 67s.  I am loading a 1 oz. trap/5stand load with the 67's to see how well they hold up long term.  At $5.50 a hundred primed, the price is right.  I have loaded center fire for a long time but never paid any attention to shot shells in the past.  Ken

[Graybeard]

Now I understand. I hate new hulls that have never had a factory crimp. they really can be a bear to get to crimp correctly. And yes I think I recall the 8 point does generally work a bit better on them.

GB