Author Topic: need suggestions for easy to use gun blue (Read 548 times)

DIVR6347 · « **on:** March 01, 2005, 02:05:45 PM »

hey
im looking for the easiest do it yourself gun blue to use on my budget mauser sporter project (yugo 48) i found some stuff called oxpho blue that seems like it may work but i havent found anything else that seems easy to use local smith told me not to use bake on finishes as they can be
toxic when put in your household oven so any suggestions would be great
i was also wondering about powder coating but havent heard anyone who may of tried it
thanks for any suggestions
divr6347

smoji · « **Reply #1 on:** March 01, 2005, 03:09:26 PM »

It'll be hard to beat Oxpho for ease of use, durability and appearance.

savageT · « **Reply #2 on:** March 01, 2005, 03:30:16 PM »

I can't think of a better/easier cold bluing product than Birchwood Casey's cold bluing or Super Blue..........just make certain that what ever you decide, get the surface clean by using acetone or brake cleaner and plenty of ventilation. and degrease before you apply the coldblue product.

Jim

Racepres · « **Reply #3 on:** March 02, 2005, 02:48:10 PM »

Any cold blue is preferable to "paint" IMHO Have heard very good things abt oxpho blue I use blue wonder personally.. Good luck Marty

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 02, 2005, 07:40:46 PM »

OxphoBlue is a bit different. Besides being the toughest cold blue I've used it can be used THRU the oil on the surface of the steel. That's right thru the oil. Now it won't work thru a thick coat of oil but after polishing there's no needed to degrease. Just start bluing per the instructons.. follow the instructions especially about burnishing and it will build a deep blue finish that is the toughest cold blue I've ever used. Of course there are some I haven't tried... but OxphoBlue is an exceptional product.

armory414 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 03, 2005, 04:26:01 AM »

Call Brownell's and talk to one of their technicians, they can point you toward several options. I've used Oxpho blue for several guns, but on some steels the color will fade to brown after about a year. I had a beautiful dark blue on a Stevens Ideal rebarrel--it was brown a year later; same with a Mossberg 44. I know some people use a rust blue process that you apply, card with steel wool, repeat, then finally "set" by boiling in distilled water or by steaming in a box. Relatively inexpensive (though more so than Oxpho) but gives a superb finish. I know a guy who's done this for a Browning A5 and Remington Rolling Block with excellent results.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 03, 2005, 05:33:27 AM »

What your discussing is rust bluing. It is a great process for coloring and protecting steel. It is NOT however a cold blue nor is it an easy process. It requires at least a single tank of boiling water. It also demands complete oil free processing and depending on the material used can take up to several days to complete. Of the bluing processes it is sort of the cadilac but it also is the most finicky. Even the compostion of the water in the boiling tank can cause variable results. Done improperly it can destroy bores and erode action interiors. Done correctly it produces a really tough oxide coating that with a bit of assistance completely stops rusting. It is not however a simple, easy to use process.