Author Topic: 4 Cavity Lyman mold, hard sprues? (Read 590 times)

Robert · « **on:** April 12, 2005, 03:04:37 PM »

I finally got around to using my .452 2 cavity mold. Wow...are these things usually so hard to cut the sprues? I had to beat the crap out of it.

HotGuns · « **Reply #1 on:** April 12, 2005, 11:00:58 PM »

Ive got a half dozen 4 cavity molds and have never had a problem with them. Are you sure the alloy content is right ?

Robert · « **Reply #2 on:** April 13, 2005, 06:02:21 AM »

Hot Guns, what alloy % do you use? I was using straight W/W. This is for Contender and I was hoping to drive them pretty fast, but I don't want to beat my mold to death. What mix W/W-Pure would you recommend?

Will52100 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 14, 2005, 07:33:46 AM »

All I cast for regular bullets is pure WW, if I let them cool to much in the mold the sprues are hard to cut, but if I cut them after the lead solidifies I don't have a problem. You may have a bad sprue plate.

Robert · « **Reply #4 on:** April 14, 2005, 11:44:15 AM »

Thanks. I might try softening it up just a little.

HotGuns · « **Reply #5 on:** April 15, 2005, 01:32:37 PM »

I use straight wheelweights and dump them right into a 5 gallon bucket of water. If you want to go fast, this will harden the bullets to around 18 bhn.

I dont let the bullets stay in the mold for very long. As soon as the lead solidifys I cut the sprue and dump em out .

Check your sprue plate. You may need to take it off and stone the back of it or it may need to be cleaned.

Also, you might need to use a different method of whacking. I use a leather mallet that is heavy enough for one whack. I did use a wooden handle that required a lot more effort and usually took several whacks.

dakotashooter2 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 22, 2005, 06:42:56 PM »

I drilled out a hammer handle and filled it with lead. One whack is all it takes.