Question regarding 7-30 Waters

[George Denys]

Hi Folks, I just got a Contender in 7-30 Waters. I went out today to fire off 20 factory rounds to start loading for it. Half of the factory rounds had backed out primers and half didn't. I dont know what to make of it. Another thing, do you all full lenth size or what?? Thanks, George.......................................................from Masonville.

[Racepres]

I personally have never full-length resized for a bottle neck ctg in a contender. Kind of sounds like you better not either. After partial resizing, (or neck only) and reloading, those rounds should not come out w/ protruding primers again. Marty

[Curtis]

I agree with Racepres, you've got some extra headspace.  Just neck size them or only full size them to where the shoulder is now and not back to factory spec and they will do just fine.

If minimal sizing results in hard closing of your action after a few reloads, adjust the full length sizing die just a bit more to bump the shoulder back a tiny bit and you're set to go.

Curtis

P.S.  All of your primers probably backed out, but some of the cases slipped back in the chamber and drove the primer back in.  The others had enough grip on the chamber walls to stay put, resulting in your protruding primers.

[George Denys]

Thanks, I'll give partial resizing a try. George..............................................................................................................................from Masonville.

[MnMike]

This seems to be a common problem with the 7-30 in a Contender. I load all new brass with a lighter load and seat a 140 gr tight into the rifling (the 140s were a bad experiment so I am trying to use them up). I seat it so it is a bit stiff to close. This fire forms the case to my chamber. From then on, I just neck size.

mike

[contender hunter]

How many loadings are you guys getting with your 7-30  , I've only got 3 loadings so far so I don't no how many  I'll get - no problems yet, I started out with 30-30 brass and now just neck sizing , seems like it has been somewhat of a problem for this case, but time will tell , I just can't believe how accurate it is , now to get first blood and see how it performs on game , very curious to see how brass is holding up for other 7-30 shooters.

[bob helget]

I have some Federal nickel plated brass that have 10 loads through them and they are still look good.  I do need to trim the length every 3 to 4 firings.  I too had problems with primers backing out on my reloads and factory ammo.  I was able to adjust the dies to the point where I am not at max loads and the primers are not moving.  For me it took some trial and error as I was new to reloading with my new 7-30 G2.

[contender hunter]

10 loadings thats great , nothing wrong with that ,but thats with 7-30 brass -what are you guys getting that use 30 -30 brass

[Elwood]

My 7-30 brass has not been lasting long at all, They die from neck splits by the fourth firing. No doubt the worst performing brass I have ever dealt with. 7-30 brass is almost as bad as 30-30 brass. I have recently annealed all of the shells for my 7-30 and so far it is so good but, I haven't had sufficient experience with these yet to be able to say how much better they last.
      The 7-30 Waters is a awesome round in the Contender and I am willing to put up with short life for the brass.

Elwood

[Bug]

If you aren't overworking your brass - sizing too much, then effectively fireforming every load, :?
and,
If you anneal when required - which in Elwood's experience is about three firings,

and if you aren't maxing the brass's pressure limit (max loads) - loose primer pockets, :cry:

Then your brass should last (almost) indefinately! :grin:   :-D

[steveatsatx]

I have been loading the 7-30 Waters for my Super 14 for about four years now and seems like I went through all the questions raised here.
 
First I've got to say that ANY cartridge with a 1/8 space between the head and the breech face is flirting with disaster, and soon! Even if you do not have a case separation, you will stretch that cartridge dangerously.

But let's start at the beginning. The first problem with fireforming the 30-30 is that many people start with a used case. Reducing from .308 to .284 on a case already fired one or more times is pretty stressful. The odds are pretty good you will get some neck and shoulder splits when you fireform. I saved a few if you want a picture. Start with new cases.

Next, please realize this case does NOT headspace on the rim, it should headspace on the shoulder. When die-forming the new shoulder, start long and move the shoulder back until your action just closes with a very slight pressure. After fireforming, as long as you action closes easily, only resize the neck. You will have much longer case life that way.

Primers backing out of any case in not normal. It indicates too much headspace. Period! A manufacturer must make their ammo to fit any gun out there, so tolerences err on the low side. Your barrel tolerance is probably on the high side. I gave up on the 30-30 route and now I use only new 7-30 brass. Never a problem with headspace, and it's six or seven loadings before I have to trim any cases.  

I found a dealer with 10,000 cases from 10 years ago when Federal still made it and bought it all. I have been selling it on eBay now for three years, and I'm down to 2,500 cases. The only other brass I found is custom made by Quality Cartridge. It ain't cheep! I've talked to several people who bought Federal loaded ammo and either shot it up on paper or pulled the flat nose bullets just to get virgin brass to reload their own.

I fully agree the 7-30 is a perfect whietail gun. I killed seven deer at 80 to 145 yards and not one went more than a few yards. My favorite load is 33.5 grains of H335 behind a Hornady 120 ballistic tip #22810. It is a V-max, but the thinner jacket gives the expansion you want at Contender speeds. (Disclaimer: start low and work up your own load.)
Good Huntin'!!

[Steve P]

The Federal Factory ammo is made to minimum specs to feed and fit in lever action rifles.  That is what it was originally intended for.   Your TC barrel is made to TC specs (SAAMI) which is a little larger than the ammo.  Use the original Federal Brass for plinking, hunting rabbits, squirrels, paper targets etc.    Then decap, and minimal (1/4") neck size your brass.  Load up a light load of about 8-10 grains of Unique and a .285 cast bullets.  Shoot the brass again to fireform it to your chamber.  Then you can do the annealing, trimming, etc as necessary.

I make most of my brass out of .30-30 from Remington.  I size the neck down until I have to firmly close the action.  I shoot the same 8-10 grains of Unique with a cast bullet to blow out the shoulder.  Makes a great plinking load, is accurate, and fireforms the brass.  After firing, I size, trim, etc.

I have never split a neck on a 7-30 waters case and I have the Contender and a Win 94.

Good luck and have fun.

Steve