Author Topic: Terms which must be addressed  (Read 608 times)

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Offline williamlayton

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Terms which must be addressed
« on: March 27, 2005, 01:42:42 PM »
Folks-
I have some terms which I must address.
These are easy for you but which, until recently I have ignored-as in what do I care, those are too technical for me and I do not have need to understand--BUTTTT now I have a need.
FLGR- standard Guide Rod. What are the differences and why are they?
Standard length bushing--I had no idea there would be different lengths-why?
Barrel Bushing-what's the deal-why? why not?
Plunger tube-no plunger tube?
Mainspring housing--different kinds? why?

Dumb questions, but I didn't know I didn't know until I realized I didn't know!!!
Blessings
TEXAS, by GOD

Offline Questor

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Terms which must be addressed
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2005, 07:44:23 AM »
The full lenght guide rods are favored by today's gun makers of accurate 1911s. I guess the thinking is that it reduces play somewhere during recoil and assists the slide's consistent return to position after recoil.  The most accurate 1911s, like the Rock River's go one step farther and have a two-piece guide rod that  is even longer than the full length rod.  If your gun is not for target shooting, the "standard" is probably better because it makes the gun easier to assemble and disassemble.

I don't know about different lengths of bushings. I haven't heard the term. There are match grade bushings that are very tight. Target guns made for bullseye are fitted with such bushings.  

Barrel bushing: There are a couple of variations on the types of bushings used. True 1911 designs have a bushing that is removed with a barrel bushing tool.  Some defense guns have a tapered barrel and a different bushing design.  Target guns use the standard design.

Plunger tube: I assume you mean the plunger on the left side of the gun. The only variation on this in a 1911 is the case where a longer plunger than standard. I don't know why they do this, but it does make it harder to reassemble the gun.

Mainspring housing: The difference is comfort. The function is the same, the shape is different. Some guys, usually with big hands, prefer the kind that has a hump that fits better in the palm. Others prefer a checkered flat housing.  I can live with either, the different designs really do feel different in the hands.  

That's the view from a target shooter's point of view.

Are you trying to find desirable features in a gun for you?
Safety first

Offline Iowegan

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Terms which must be addressed
« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2005, 05:42:39 AM »
williamlayton,  The standard recoil spring guide keeps the recoil spring from kinking during slide movement and uses a conventional recoil spring cap. The full length guide rod uses a recoil spring cap that has a hole in it so the guide rod will extend when the slide moves to the rear. The full length guide rods are mostly a hype. They don't make the gun function any better nor do they improve accuracy. They are a pain in the butt to remove when you field strip the gun for cleaning. Also, the full length guide rod prevents you from doing a press check. A press check is where you place your thumb in the front of the trigger guard and fore finger on the recoil spring cap then squeeze your fingers together. This will open the slide so you can see if a round is chambered.

Bushing length is related to barrel length. A standard length bushing is used for a 5" barrel. The short bushings are required on Commander sized guns (4 1/4" barrel) else the bushing will bottom out on the frame and prevent the slide from moving fully to the rear. There are all sorts of bushings available. They must be matched to the different barrel contours and lengths or they won't work properly. Much of the gun's accuracy potential comes from how snug the bushing fits into the slide and how snug the barrel fits in the bushing. A loose fit will totally destroy accuracy and a tight fit can bind and cause feeding malfunctions.

A few companies have come up with a barrel design that doesn't use a bushing at all. This is a poor choice because the blunderbus barrel seats directly in the slide. Any wear will destroy accuracy and would require replacing the slide and/or barrel. This is a big complaint with non-1911 type semi-autos such as a Ruger P series or other non-bushing guns.

The plunger tube contains a spring with a plunger on both ends. The front plunger acts as a holder for the slide lock. This keeps the slide lock from accidentially locking the slide back until it is purposely pushed up by the magazine follower after the last round is fired. The rear plunger acts as a detent for the thumb safety. Without it, the safety would not work properly and could fall out. Some guns, such as a SVI, have the plunger tube cast into the frame. Most other 1911s have a removable plunger tube that is staked in place by two rivet-like posts that extend into the frame. The plunger tube is required and must be tight against the frame, else malfunctions will occur.

Mainspring housings come in several styles. There are straight ones, light, medium and full arched ones, and housings with a built-in magazine well guide. They all make the gun function the same but accuracy will be best when the mainspring housing fits your hand. Many guns come with polymer MS housings. These work OK and are a few ounces lighter than steel MS housings. I like the gun's balance better with a steel MS housing.

There's a ton of aftermarket goodies for 1911s. Some are value added and some are just a way to spend money.
GLB