Bullet Hardness - Casting alloy

[haroldclark]

I had a private message from Louis Farrugia in Europe.  He wanted the sheet that I sent out on Metal Hardness and comparisons between Brinnell and Saeco hardness testers.

I sent the following info to Louis.

Good Morning Louis,

I have been shooting cast bullets in handguns and rifles for a long time.  Most of the fuss made over metal hardness is overblown and overstated.  I have shot anything that will melt in my guns.  Currently, I'm using 3 pounds of Wheelweights and one pound of Linotype.  I'm using linotype because I have so much of it on hand.  I have used shotgun pellets by the 5 gallon buckets full and they work great.

Some powders are more subject to lead a barrel than others.  I have found that Unique and H110 are the worst offenders.  I have a full 8 pound container of H110 that I have had for 20 years and don't have any use for it since I shoot mostly lead bullets in my handguns.  I traded one 8 pounder off last year.

I have had a slight year for 2005 and I'm way behind on my shooting.  The weather has not been conducive to shooting.  I've shot 2084 rounds this year and 70% of that has been cast rifle bullet types.
Normally, I shoot between 10,000 and 13,000 rounds a year.  In years past, about 40% of my shooting was cast bullets for Contender and rifles.  


Leading of a barrel is usually not caused by lead hardness.  I have used a lot of straight wheelweights in America for 30 years.  Wheelweight contents are rarely known for sure.  I have shot a 25-06 caliber with a 100 grain cast bullet made from wheelweights and 2% tin.  The chronographed velocity of the 25 caliber load is 2245 fps. The tin adds a bit of hardness, but the main reason I use it is to allow the bullet molds to completely fill out all of the edges and etc..  No leading of the 26" barrel occurs.  I also, use Javelina bullet lube that is a 50/50 mix of beeswax and Alox.  After sizing and lubing the bullets, I drop the bullet on a rag covered board that is slanted downwards to the box and I coat the rag with Motor Mica powder.

I shoot my cast bullets out to 547 yards (500 meters) out of my 16.25" TC Contender in 30-30 with deadly accuracy on a calm day.  I shoot a Saeco #315 in my 308 CZ at 2047 fps at 500 meter Rams.  I have to set the rams slightly back off the rail to be able to knock them down.  On lookers watch in awe and that is fun watching their faces.  My 30-30 TC Contender will take chicken targets at the Turkey Line (421 yards).  Last week, I had a guy shoot my 30-30 cast bullets at Turkeys and then at Rams (500 meters and set lightly).  When he knocked over the first Ram, the look on his face was priceless and then he nearly fainted when he hit the second on.  That was fun.  The 30-30 is a Saeco #316 and moving out at 1500 fps from the 16.25" barrel.  My scopes are shimmed in the rear to allow me to get out to 500 meters.  However, I can't get down low enough to hit 200 meter chickens.

Of course, I firelapped all barrels intended for shooting cast bullets.  For that matter, I firelap almost all of my firearms and I have very little fouling from copper bullets.  My first adventure with cast bullets in a rifle was with a Sako in 308 with a 20" barrel.  I followed the instructions from an old time rifle caster.  My barrel leaded so bad that it took me 8 hours to scrub it out.  My cast bullets were cast from wheelweights.

Since that time, I firelap all my barrels with LBT Compound.  I have provided firelapping bullets for a number of my local shooting buddies.  I have had occasions where a gun would not hit a 200 meter Ram Silhouette before firelapping.  One of my buddies couldn't hit a truck at 500 meters with his 7mm TCU Contender before firelapping.  Afterwards, he head shot Rams at 500 meters.  Only seeing this will cause one to believe it.

I have 3 barrels that did not require lapping.  Two CZ rifles and on Thompson Encore barrel from Dave Van Horn in Arizona.  No fouling occurs in these barrels.  I shoot lead in the two CZs mostly.

I recommend firelapping all barrels except CZs.  If any type of fouling appears in the CZ when shooting cast bullets, firelap it.  It won't hurt the barrel.  Of course, I use cast bullets rolled in the LBT compound for the lapping.  Never use jacketed bullets for lapping.

I might have given you more info that you wanted to know, but I don't mind sharing my experiences and promoting the art of casting bullets.

[harley45]

That was a very informative and accurate post Do you recomend firelapping standard handgun bar. to? Such as my pyton or My 1911s?
Thanks

[haroldclark]

I do firelap my revolvers.  I have not done an auto pistol to date.  All of my auto pistols are hand lapped barrels, except a couple.  I do have a Sig P226 that doesn't shoot up to my expectations and I have some 9mm bullets ready for lapping.  I just haven't had the time or the inclination to get at it.

In the mid-80s, I bought two S&W revolvers when the Company was owned by an Arabian group.  Instead of screwing the barrels into the frame and pinning them in place, they apparently determined just how much screw length was needed and screwed the barrel into the frame until it was straight.  

That operation squeezed the barrel (soft metal they are) until there was an hour glass restriction in the barrel right at the frame.  Neither gun shot well.

I lived with it for several years and then one day I made ups some lapping bullets using coarse Clover brand valve grinding compound, more with medium and finishing with LBT compound.  100 bullets in all were loaded.

Bear in mind that it is rare that the cylinder throats are of equal size.  The firelapping will make the undersized throats more uniform.

I had to stay away from tall dry grass that summer when I fire lapped those barrels.  Sparks and arcs were flying all over the place and out the barrel to cylinder gap.  My shooting partner moved down the line to get away from the action.  He declared "stuff" was hitting him in the cheeks.

After cleaning the revolvers, both shot better than ever before.  The barrel rescrictions were cleared.

I sized my bullets to .357 so that I wouldn't touch much of the barrel with pressure past the restriction.  The restriction was reducing the bullets to .355" until it was lapped up in size.

My two revolvers in mention are:

S&W Model 624 in 44 Special (stainless steel)

S&W Model 686 in 357 Magnum (also, stainless steel)

They both are fine shooters now.

Harold Clark