stock refinishing questions

[rickyp]

I have an encore forend that I need to raise out some dents. and i want to restain it almost black to match the grips.

I am gona use a wet towel and a hot soldering iron to raise the wood grain trying to get the dents out

I was thinking about using some denatured acohol to remove the  the factory stain and a very little sanding. or going to walmart and seeing if they have some stain remover.

what do you people recommend

[gunnut69]

The steaming trick will expand the dents.  Be sure to remove the finish over the dents with a bit of steel wool to allow the steam to penetrate.. Then et it set a few days for the excess moisture to leave the wood. Towels don't work as well as a smooth cloth.  T-shirt material will work as will old sheets. Must be all cotton(polyester melts!) and thickness is not important, as multiple layers can make it any thickness you wish. Why remove the old stain.  Remove the finish(I prefer heat and scraping) and sand lightly(keep corners sharp and lines straight).  Apply the new stain as you wish.  Since it's to be darker than the factory stain, there'll be no problems.

[rickyp]

Why remove the old stain. Remove the finish(I prefer heat and scraping) and sand lightly(keep corners sharp and lines straight). Apply the new stain as you wish. Since it's to be darker than the factory stain, there'll be no problems.

haow would I go about doing this?

I already did the steam and it took most of the dent out I can still see it but it is not as deep.

[gunnut69]

To strip finshes from gunstocks use a propane torch and heat the finish until it just curdles. To start hold the torch pointed toward the stock at a slight angle but too far away to alter the finish and begin moving toward the stock. As soon as the finish curdles move the torch forward to keep the curdling going. Don't hold too long in one spot as it will scorch the wood which is difficult to remove.  Do a small area at a time2x3 inches or so.  After the finish is curdled and before it cools, use a scraper(a butch knife blade works well) and scrape away the softened finish.  It doesn't have to be completely removed.  Any small areas left will simply disintegrate as the stock is sanded.  Beware of edges as they are more easily scorched.  If there is no major daamage to the wood, start with 220 grade sandpaper.  It should provide a fairly good finish.  Finer grits can be used if you wish.  Always sand with the grain.  Final surface prep with steel wool (about 00) to polish.  I usually apply stain before the final polish.  Solvent based stains usually won't raise the grain, water based stains will.  The steel wool will fix the roughness.  Before you start the finish work be sure to check carefully for any imperfections and fix.  They will sure stick out out the newly finish stock.  Dust thoroughly before finish application..

[rickyp]

let me give you a little more information.
I got a used encore 15 inch 209x50 forend that showers some small dents and a couple of deep scratches.

I want to do is take the factory finish off and stain it almost black jacob bean if i can find some.
 I was in walmart I saw a can of varnish remover.
I was thinking of using of using this to remove the varnish then use a sandable and stainable  wood putty and fill in all the dints taht I coudl not get out sand it all down andthen use the stain over the factory stain. then use a coat of flat polyeurthin to portect it

[Fullchoke]

rickyp;

I've just completed a refinish with the guidance of "gunnut69". It came out good. But watch the "stainable wood filler". Gunnut69 may know of a wood filler that readily takes stain. I didn't ask him that. I just forged ahead. And of the three "stainable" wood fillers I tried, none was acceptable. This was my first attempt at refinishing and I learned. I'm sure gunnut69 will be along shortly with something concrete.

[Jim B.]

A true black stain is difficult to achieve.  There are some black stains.  Most produce some shade of gray.  There are also ebonizing solutions that can chemicaly blacken wood.  if  you want a tue black, I think You will end up with some sort of paint.

[gunnut69]

I know of no filler that will stain right and look good.  You might try the steaming process a couple of times, sometimes it helps.  If your going to fill the worst offenders I would use epoxy and die it.  The stuff I use came from brownells.  The brown is the stuff they used to put it their AcraGlass kits.  The black looks for all intents and purposes like carbon black.  It too came from Brownells. It won't take stain but I color it with the die and then allow the surrounding stain to blend it in.  Depending on the size of the dent there is a technique that uses a thin bladed chisel to lift a chip from the stock.  The dent is contained on the chip. The epoxy is used as a filler UNDER the chip. When the glue dries the chip is sanded flush and the dent is gone.  There may be an alteration in the grain flow so that if one knows where to look it can still be found, but it is very difficult.  I've only used the process a few times with fair to good results.  It takes a lot of time and patience but if warranted can provide good results.  True black is very hard to do.  I've had some luck with shoe dies and some aniline dies.  The latter can be had from better woodworker supply houses.

[rickyp]

I have a few dints about the size of a thumb nail on the end. It looks like someone wasnt watching how the put the ramrod in and it hit the forend.
I have another dint about the size of a small pea that I was able to get most of the way out. I think with a little work I may be able to get it up.

I may just use a good flat paint then a follow up coat of flat polyeurathine

[clodbuster]

rickyp--I've had good luck staining/coloring wood using Fiebing's shoe dye purchased at our local shoe repair shop.  It does not contain the coarse solids that wood stain has and gives an more even color.  Be careful though,  it is impossible to get off your hide!

[rickyp]

Over the last 2 days I went ahead and did the work to my forend
I started out with 100 grit sandpaper to remove the old finish and reshape some. then i used my dermal tool to get places I could not get with the  sandpaper, I got all the dents and nicks out, then I went with 220 grit to smooth things out.

I used rust-oleum flat protective enamel for the color.
while I was waiting for the coats to dry I sanded the sling stud down and painted it to with the rust-oleum then I put it in the over at 175 deg. for 3 hours to bake it in.

once I got to the color I wanted I then put about 5 coats of Minwax helmsman spar urethane clear satin over the forend and the sling stud.

all I have to do now is let everything dry real well install the sling stud and add a drop of gorilla glue to help keep it from moving.


[/url][/img]

[gunnut69]

I like the satin look!  good work..
Now how does it shoot??  What caliber barrels fo you have.  That's a weapon I don't own.  thought about it several times but never got the bug.

[rickyp]

this is for an encore 209x50 -15 inch barrel.

when I got the stock it had several dints and some scratches. the frame came with the black rubber grips. I wanted something to match. so I Decided to give this a try I figured the stock came to me for free so I had very little to loose. It came out a lot better then I thought it would.