Author Topic: Keeping your c-and-b running  (Read 1318 times)

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Offline Oregon Bill

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Keeping your c-and-b running
« on: February 11, 2003, 07:15:57 AM »
I should be receiving a Pietta 1861 Navy in the next day or two, and plan to give CAS a whack with it. I have read here and there about various ways to keep a percussion revolver from binding up with fouling, from greased wads under the ball to lube over the ball to a squirt of Ballistol every two cylinders, etc. What's your favorite drill to keep your revolver shooting all afternoon without a total breakdown and cleaning?

P.S. I was tempted to go with the 1860 Army, especially after the posts by Gatofeo and Simon Kenton, but I sure do prefer the feel of the Navy grip frame. And I think the '61 Navy is the purtiest of all.

Offline The Shrink

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Keeping your c-and-b running
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2003, 11:26:54 AM »
Bill

Binding is most likely to occur around the cylinder pin.  It has groves in it to hold greese, make sure this is well lubed and renew this lube every other cylinder or so.  For competition you might want to follow the old Calvary trick of having several loaded (except capping now) cylinders spare, and to reload you simply break down the pistol, slip on a new cylinder, cap and fire.  It is easy to renew the lube when you do it this way.  Assumint this is allowed, that is.
Wayne the Shrink

There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

Offline Flint

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Keeping your c-and-b running
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2003, 02:48:05 PM »
No problem having spare loaded (uncapped) cylinders to use, it saves time at the stage.  From Cabela's you can get a reloading tool (you'll need a 36, or get the 44 and modify the ram). Costs $20.00, and saves your revolver's loading lever, and unnecessary repetitive breaking down of the barrel assembly.  Easier to do with a Remington, and shooters do it.  Incidently, Oregon, if you do have an 1860 Army, you can screw on a Navy gripframe if you prefer the smaller grip.  An Uberti part should fit, if you can't find Pietta.  Check their website for parts too. .  I buy Uberti spare parts off their website.  Most fit ASM and Pietta guns.  (Except the Remington bolt).  Uberti nipples are NOT interchangable with Pietta, but the whole cylinder assembly is. (Colts, that is).  I use a Wonder Wad over the powder and Bore Butter over the ball, the gun will run quite well with that.  Ballistol or Windex will break the fouling loose on the cylinder pin.  Use Remington #10 caps, most likely the best fit.  Try to get  (from Warren) .380 diameter balls, they will work much better than .375, which is too close to the chamber diameter to hold tight.  Don't know why Speer and Hornady don't sell them, as they do sell 454 and 457 for 44's.
Flint, SASS 976, NRA Life

Offline Gatofeo

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Keeping your c-and-b running
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2003, 06:58:44 PM »
I use a 3/8 inch hole punch to make .36-caliber felt wads.
I use the felt sold in a 17-foot strip as window seal. True Value hardware stores carry it, as made by Frost King of Nevada and New Jersey.
Or, I buy Wonder Wads by Ox-Yoke.
Either wad is soaked in an old 19th century bullet lubricant recipe made by melting together:
1 part paraffin (I use canning paraffin sold in grocery stores)
1 part mutton tallow (I buy mutton tallow from Dixie Gun Works)
1/2 part beeswax
All measurements are by weight. A kitchen scale may be used to measure 200/200/100 grams of ingredients. This will nearly fill a quart Mason jar.
Place the jar in boiling water for a double-boiler effect, to melt all ingredients safely. When thoroughly melted, stir with a clean stick or disposable chopstick.
Allow the lubricant to harden at room temperature. Hastening hardening by placing in the refrigerator may cause the ingredients to separate.
Some sharp-eyed shooters may spot paraffin and think, like othe petroleum products, that it will cause a hard, tarry fouling. This doesn't occur.
A chemist once explained the difference to me, something about hydrocarbons, but all I know is that while other petroleum products produce this hard, tarry fouling when mixed with black powder, this paraffin ingredient does not.
Go figure.
I liberally soak all felt wads in this lubricant.
My best load with my Colt 2nd generation (circa 1981) 1851 Navy has been:
Goex FFFG black powder - 24 grs. by powder flask spout
Greased felt wad, seated firmly on the powder
.380 inch sprueless ball sold by Warren Muzzleloading, of Arkansas.
Seat the ball firmly on the previously seated wad, leaving no space.
Remington No. 10 cap. Your revolver may require a No. 11 cap.
There is no advantage in using the relatively new Magnum No. 11 cap with the small powder charges typical of revolvers.
If the weather is hot and dry (here in the Utah desert, that can mean 110 degrees and 6 percent humidity), then I augment the wad by placing the same lubricant over the ball with a Popsicle stick (a handy, little trick that keeps the fingers cleaner).
But most of the time, extra lubricant is not needed.
With the above load, the Colt has sometimes placed 6 balls into 1 and 1.5 inch groups at 25 yards from a benchrest. Most of the time, groups run 2 to 3 inches.
Removing the barrel and peering down the bore will usually reveal a fine trace of fouling. I've shown friends, who were amazed and remarked that it looked no worse than a .38 Special firing smokeless powder.
Paramount to accuracy is having the wedge tight in the frame. A hard nylon-faced mallet is best for tapping in and out the wedge.
Brass will leave a shiny, golden hue after a while. Steel will dent and mar the metal. Buy a small, hard plastic or nylon-faced mallet at hardware stores.
Every Colt I've owned or fired hits high at 25 yards. My Navy hits about 6 inches above the point of aim. The only cure is to add a taller front sight, or sometimes you can file the notch in the hammer deeper to compensate.
Take your time with filing, though. Give it a few licks, then shoot for effect against a real paper target at a known distance from a benchrest.
Guessing point of impact by watching dust spouts is imprecise and inconsistent.
With the Colt, you'll reach a point where the plane of the barrel gets close to the bottom of the notch. It's time to stop at this point.
While I haven't done so to my Colt, I'd suggest the higher front sight route. If you make a mistake, it's easier to rectify by replacing the front sight and starting over.
To my knowledge no one makes a higher front sight bead for the Colt.
I am often tempted to make one from a section of an old Indian Head penny (produced 1859 to 1909 by the U.S. Mints).
This would, of course, create a copper front sight and not the more authentic brass, but I feel the use of an old penny would be more in keeping with the gun's character.
An 1851 Coronet Portrait penny in good condition, which was produced 1816 to 1857, can be had for about $10 according to my 2002 U.S. coin values book.
Perhaps that would be more fitting.
(The first smarty-pants that mutters, "A penny for your thoughts" is gonna get the Gatofeo Glare of Death ...  :evil: )
"A hit with a .22 is better than a miss with a .44."

Offline bluebelly73

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C&B high front sights
« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2003, 07:34:47 AM »
I suggest you go to the North-South Skirmish Ass'n webpage and then link to their b/b.  Since they shoot these guns in competition, they do have suppliers for new, higher frontsights.
    The URL for their site is: <www.n-ssa.org>, link to the b/b is under "Information" on the left side of the page.  Guest posts are welcome.
<www.n-ssa.org>

Offline simonkenton

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Keeping your c-and-b running
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2003, 12:13:37 PM »
Any way you slice it you are going to have to solder the new front sight on, aren't you? I soldered a piece of a silver ring on to a Zouave front sight, that worked real well.
Aim small don't miss.