Author Topic: would anyone do machining for me? (at my expense of course) (Read 963 times)

mortarnoobie · « **on:** April 26, 2005, 02:37:56 PM »

if you havn't read my other post, i really want to build a mortar that i can fire w/peace of mind that it won't send a piece of steel into me or a loved one's chest, but i am in fairly short supply of equipment. Would anyone here be willing to turn a barrel and breech plug for me? (at my expense for shipping and any costs like coolants and stuff that are needed)

from what i've heard, it is not cheap to get this work done at a shop, so i would be willing to pay in addition to shipping and supplies.

i live in the midwestern united states. i don't want to ship materials to the coast, so is anyone relatively close?

maybe i'm going out on a limb here, but does anyone relatively close have access to materials for these things at a reduced cost? i have not purchased anything and am still in the research/pondering phase if you can't tell.

the design i am keeping in mind right now is the one in cat whisperer's "afternoon delight!" post

thanks to anyone who can offer advice or help :grin:
-Jon

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #1 on:** April 26, 2005, 04:52:52 PM »

Ok, here's your ASSIGNMENT, Jon.

When I taught jig & fixture design, for each of the dozen problems in the course, I required my students to come up with three DIFFERENT solutions for the same problem.

It forced them to wring their minds out. By the third design, a lot of issues were resolved, before making the fixture.

You really need to take a look at 3 different methods of making a golf-ball or beer-can caliber mortar.

THEN, go to a local machine shop. This is where the real fun begins, because you WILL find some half-crazy dudes out there that will be fascinated with what you've come up with & they just might cut you a break in the process! You might just find a good shooting partner too.

I have pictures of the 4.5" mortar (in the avitar to the left) on the day I picked it up from the machine shop. We broke it in RIGHT there! Great fun and enterainment.

intoodeep · « **Reply #2 on:** April 26, 2005, 05:27:49 PM »

stupidnoobie,

There is a gentleman who lists a golf ball mortar on www.gunbroker.com his seller name is "gunsmoke". These mortars generally sell there for between $150 & $165 plus shipping. In my opinion this in a "No Muss No Fuss" solution to what you are looking for. I do not think you could build this mortar any cheaper by "jobbing it out". I purchased one over a year ago and it does just what it was intended for. It is safe and fun when handled properly. He does not have one listed at this time but, he seems to list about every other week.

If, you look back at one of my posts "A Great Day for Golf" you will see a photo of the mortar. Also, Gunsmoke lists his mortars on www.gunsamerica.com but, these are at a higher price.

Good Luck with you Mortar.

mortarnoobie · « **Reply #3 on:** April 26, 2005, 06:03:14 PM »

thanks for the responses ppl.

on average, from a steel supply warehouse or whatever, how much would a piece of DOM pipe, say, 6" long of beer can caliber, cost (plus the price of the breech plug), compared to a 6" long by 3-3.5" piece of solid steel stock?

will a machine shop sell me steel stock rounds like this?

good point on them maybe cutting me a break. i got autoCAD on the other computer, so i can draw up some different potential designs to show them.

i take it if i wanted a large enough powder chamber to really send this thing sailing out there (like 400 yds), i should go with a solid 1 piece construction? i don't want to 'outgrow' a gun that i build/have someone else build for me. i'd rather start low power and work up to full blast (=

CAV Trooper · « **Reply #4 on:** April 26, 2005, 06:08:36 PM »

Jon,

Glad to see you are going about becoming involved in BP mortar and cannon shooting the right way. Welcome

As intoodeep said, the easiest way to get into this sport is to buy something ready made. The tube that he mentioned is just fine but
be careful since there's other cannons and mortars out there that can be dangerous. If you find something you like, check with us here about it BEFORE you buy it.

If, instead, you want to be involved in the construction process, check your phone book for steel suppliers and machine shops in your area. A 4" x 7" piece of steel rod for a golf ball mortar shouldn't cost over $50. Like CW said, talk to some machine shops and I'll bet you'll find somebody who will bore it for a very reasonable cost.

If you have trouble finding steel, try: http://www.metalexpress.net

They list 4"x7" piece of 1018 for $47 while the same size piece of heat treated 4140 (much stronger) costs $48. They have several plants in the midwest so shipping shouldn't be too much.

If you know how to do any sort of wood working, building the base really isn't a problem and you should have some fun doing it.

WARNING...WARNING--- this sport is addictive! After you shoot your first mortar or cannon, you'll be HOOKED. They're like eating potato chips, you can't stop with just one! :wink:

GGaskill · « **Reply #5 on:** April 26, 2005, 07:32:06 PM »

My concern for finding someone to do the machining for you is that many places will not want the liability of having made such an item for the hands of an unknown person.

Ask around your circle of friends and see if any can do machine work. A mortar is a really simple project.

Steel generally is sold by the pound, so figure out the volume of the initial piece (or pieces) and calculate the weight. New steel costs about a buck a pound here. Surplus (scrap) costs between $.25 and $.40 (over 4" diameter) a pound.

I would start with a 4" diameter Confederate (cylindrical) "coehorn" in beer can caliber with a 1" diameter by 1.5" long chamber. Minimal machining required and maximum wall thickness.

Also it would be helpful if you update your profile with at least your city and state so we have some idea of how far away you are.

warf73 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 26, 2005, 09:53:20 PM »

Our local scrape yard had what the doctor order.

Piece of 4140 9"x3.5" with the golf dia. hole already in it :shock: for $15.

Just need time to make the rest. To many irons in the fire.

Warf

Double D · « **Reply #7 on:** April 26, 2005, 11:35:23 PM »

We'll get you really hooked. Look around at your local community college for some vocational or technical training classes in Machining. Take some classes and learn how to operate a lathe and a mill. Do your own work.

CU_Cannon · « **Reply #8 on:** April 27, 2005, 05:32:39 AM »

It is much more satisfying to build something with your own hands. It makes you appreciate the work that is involved.

mortarnoobie · « **Reply #9 on:** April 27, 2005, 12:48:07 PM »

i'd really like to get a lathe... i've worked on a friends wood one and it's down right addicting. i think my main concern is getting enough use out of it to justify the purchase.

thanks for the cost estimate on the cylinder of steel.. yes thats quite reasonable sounding to me, and the base i could do very nicely on my own (i have plenty of know-how and access to plenty of wood working equipment).

later
-Jon

GGaskill · « **Reply #10 on:** April 27, 2005, 01:14:49 PM »

I am going to open with a suggestion that you drop the "stoopid" part of your ID as we really shouldn't be providing this kind of information to someone without some intelligence. "IgnorantNoobie" would be OK as we were all there at one time.

You have to consider a lathe as a toy and not look for cost justification anymore than you would in buying a motorcycle, snow mobile, wave runner or 60" plasma TV. My machinery sits unused 99% of the time as it is strictly for entertainment use. I have $10K invested in used machinery for my major metalworking machines (and that includes three lathes, could live with two.) Most people have more difficulty finding a good place for a shop than actually affording the machines once it gets down to buying them. You just have to not act like the first machine you find is the only one out there.

So ask yourself if you would get more enjoyment from making artillery than watching a bunch of overpaid clowns who really don't care who wins running around on the hardwood or the field. No contest with me.

mortarnoobie · « **Reply #11 on:** April 27, 2005, 01:37:17 PM »

you do make a good point... can't contest that. space wouldn't be a huge issue, but i would have to do some minor rearranging. the stoopid part i just put on there as a vindication for dumb questions so to speak. i guess your right that it might make folks wary to give information... is there any way i could change it without creating a new account? /=
i'm not really stupid... i've had plenty of experience with wood working, some pretty hefty firecrackers (XL M250+ style... shh don't tell Johny law :grin: ), and stuff like that, but i can't say i've really done any work machining metal. i wouldn't want to risk messing up a piece of steel i was working with thats going to be containing a black powder detonation. sounds kinda iffy.
i'll check the junk/scrap yards around here as well. shoulda thought of that to begin with. thanks

-Jon

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #12 on:** April 27, 2005, 01:57:21 PM »

Jon -
Email or send a PM to graybeard on how to change your handle.

Names are to be lived up to. Set your sights high!

Checking the junk yards is a good idea! I found a steel roller 5" x 22" at a yard sale and paid $5 or $10 for it. It WILL be a mortar or cannon someday. The fellow used it to roll down vinyl tile on floors.

CU_Cannon · « **Reply #13 on:** April 27, 2005, 04:34:13 PM »

When buying a lathe get the biggest one you can afford. You can always do something small on a big lathe but the opposite is not true. It is better to pay a little extra now than out grow it later.

GGaskill · « **Reply #14 on:** April 27, 2005, 07:18:22 PM »

The main difference between a small lathe and a big one is spindle speed. Big lathes typically do not have high RPM settings which means working small material will not be at the best cutting speeds. If your work will be over 1" diameter, a large lathe will not be too much of a handicap.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #15 on:** April 28, 2005, 01:16:55 AM »

Second hand is the way to go (IMHO).

Since you can spend a bunch on the tooling, the best deal you can get is to get someone's entire setup with tooling for one price.

Just remember, new tools were made on old tools. Just becasue it's used doesn't mean it can't do quality work.

mortarnoobie · « **Reply #16 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:08:15 AM »

ya i know about that. a few relatives of mine work farms and all they ever buy is used equipment and they never have anything go wrong. so long as it hasn't been abused its not anything to worry over.