Need to Refinish Stock-Help!!

[smoky]

Hey Guys,

I have an inexpensive o/u that has a dry looking finish on the stock/forearm.  It appears to have no protective finish over the stain.  It is currently stained medium walnut and has a very light surface scratch on one side of the stock.  I am thinking of doing one of the following:

1.  Try to lightly remove the scratch so as to not disrupt the stain and then make it more rich looking by applying several hand rubbed coats of truoil.

2. Totally remove the stain, try to bring out the wood grain as much as possible and then restain and refinish.

How would I accomplish either of the above and what would you recommend?

Thanks,

Smoky

[gunnut69]

Smoky-sorry I took so long, was a busy day.   The finish is likely an 'in the wood' finish which means that the finish has been absorbed by the wood and has not built up of the stocks surface.  Try steaming the scratch out.  Many times this will help.  Removing the stain from a piece of wood can get dicey.  Some solvents may work, if the stain was a solvent based stain as opposed to a water based one..  I would not reccomend stain removal as a 1st choice.  If the scratch can be steamed out or lightly sanded out, without altering the contours than the stock refinished that would be the way to go.  Some woods on inexpensive guns don't take to stain too well.  The wood just seems to refused the stain.  Many times these guns have a coloring agent(usually an anilene dye) added to the finish.  This is almost never done to in the wood finishes though. Try using steel wool to polish the wood's surface.  Remember the finished product will not be any better than what you start with.  Apply the TruOil just a few drops at a time and spread it out as far as possible.  Masking tape will keep the oil out of the checkering and off the butt plate(or pad).  Use steel wool (0000) to level the finish after it's dry( every few coats will be often enough).  If you want a high polish thoroughly clean the wood after sufficient finish is built up of the stocks surface and apply the last coat as a wet coat.  Polish this lightly with a bit of wax for protection.  If a satiny sheen is desired, cut back the finish after sufficiently built up, using steel wool(0000) and apply a couple of coats of wax.  this will shine it up a bit but keep the finsih to a satiny glow.  If you get one that won't take stain a coat of aciod based stain commonly used for muzzle loaders can sometimes help to open the pores in the wood a bit.  If you've further questions I'll aanswer as soon as possible, I plan on being in the turkeys woods tomorrow morning if at all possible.,.

[smoky]

Thanks for the info.  I have a couple of questions regarding your response.  Please forgive me if they are basic, but I am a pure novice when it comes to wood working.

1.  Should I sand the scratch out with say 400 grit paper.

2.  What do you mean by applying the last coat as a wet coat.

3.  Exactly what kind of wax would I use in the final step.

Thanks,

Smoky

[gunnut69]

I would try steaming the scratch first.  That will eliminate some of it usually.  I would start with 100 or perhaps 220 grit.  Be sure to use a backer to keep sharp edges sharp and concave areas concave.  Steam using a cotton cloth soaked with water and an iron.  The steam driven into the wood will swell out most of the dent..sanding can remove the rest.  By wet soat I mean to with a smooth surface apply the last coat rubbing only to even the coat.  Leaving the last coat shiny or wet looking.  It presents a high gloss shine.  As to wax I use a floor wax and nearly any that contain carnuba will work just fine.  Avoid waxes that contain silicone like the plague!  We never turn down a question!  Try using the site's search function.  It can save you a bunch or time..  Good luck!

[NimrodRx]

I often hear to avoid silicone in wax, but I have never heard the reason.  Can you tell me why?  I notice that even Birchwood Casey gun wax contains silicone.  For the most part, I have always had good luck with their products.  It surprises me that they put silicone in their wax if it is that bad for wood/metal.  I’m really interested in knowing why to avoid silicone.

I have been using Mother’s Pure Carnauba Wax (car wax) with good results.

Thanks

[gunnut69]

I've had problems with spotting and other bad things happening to the finishes on some of my stuff when used with silicone..  Any good wax containing carnuba is just great..