Springfield 1911-A1 Trigger Adjustment

[Old No7]

Hi all:

I looked back through all 10 pages of posts checking if this topic was covered; I learned some interesting facts (AND opinions  :wink:  ) about the basic 1911's and Springfields, but I didn't see this info.

Can anyone tell me how the trigger adjustment screw is supposed to be set?  Is this for overtravel or creep?  (No dumb questions, right???  :?  )

I just got a used Black Stainless SA 1911-A1 and there' nothing noted in the booklet about it.  Turning it clockwise makes the trigger inoperative, but it's not clear to me how many turns counter-clockwise to back off from there.

This is my first 1911, so I would really appreciate some info.

Tight groups!

Old No7

[Mikey]

Old No 7 - those trigger screws take up the 'back-travel' - the distance the trigger travels backwards after the sear has tripped.

Turn the screw back the other way until the trigger begins to function to your satisfaction and then you're set.  You should have a nice crist trigger when you are finished.  If the trigger pull is still tough, but you don't have any 'travel' to it afte the sear trips, then dismantle the piece, pull the three prong-spring and tension the middle hand (bend it back a bit), as this controls the pressure on the sear mechanism.  You should be able to get the pistol to a crisp 3 lb trigger pull.  HTH.  Mikey.

[Savage]

Back off on the overtravel set screw till the sear just releases. Then back off a littttttttttttle more. As you have deterimed, too much adjustment will prevent the gun from firing. Then use a bit of thread locker to prevent it from moving.
Savage

[vinconco]

Hold the trigger back and pull back on the hammer and lower it just past the sear.  Try to feel if the hammer hooks are rubbing the sear nose.  If the hooks are "bumping" the sear nose you need to back off on the screw a little more.
   You can adjust it until you feel the "bump" and then back off until you don't, then the adjustment will be as close as is possible to get.