Need Tips for Remington 7400 - Accuracy & Reliability

[147 Grain]

Can you expert 'smiths please tell an owner of a new Remington 7400 semi-auto in 30-06 how to improve accuracy and reliability on this weapon?

Thank-you in advance of your assistance!

[147 Grain]

Example:

How to free-float and bed the barrel.  Adjusting trigger to about 3 lbs and etc...

Honing or fine-tuning the lower receiver / bolt group....

Type of ammo to use or avoid.

[gunnut69]

I've heard of trigger spring kits available for any of the Remington autoloaders but have not directly used them.  The trigger assembly is a little dangerous to fool with unless quite sure of oneself.  A good smith can help the trigger some but it really dosn't lend itself to a great trigger pull.  It's also a gas operated auto so free floating the barrel is really possible and the slamming of the action can make a really good trigger somewhat unsafe in the cold of the hunting camp.  The gas system connects the barrel and the action slide sort of ties them together.  The 740 was quite sensitive to the forearm screw tightness.  Lightening the pull weight too low or altering the sear engagement without a thorough knowledge of how the trigger works can lead to dangerous conditions.  Try differing brands of ammo and different bullet weights.  if you handload that's a plus.  About the only caution is to use a high pressure lube on the cam grooves in the bolt head.  Failure to do so will lead to early failure.  Also the chamber should be kept scrupulously clean as with the gas system.

[Mikey]

147 grain:  There are a couple of things you can do for that 7400.  Most of it involves the forestock.  Remove the forestock and square the back end where it fits to the action - do this first.  Sometimes the backend of the forestock isn't cut square and the fit puts some pressure on the barrel and throws your shots off or opens up your groups. You can also bed the backend or squared end of the forestock if there is some room left - it should keep the forestock from traveling back and forth.   Next, relieve all the stock parts at the end of the forestock - this includes the metal cap, a plastic spacer, and the wood at the end of the forestock.  Your goal here is to remove enough material at the end of the forestock so the barrel is not impacted by any part of the forestock.  You may even be able to look dodwn the bottom of the barrel at the end of this part of the job and see the stock screw retaining lug.  Also, the forestock is secured to the barrel with a screw that can be tightened too much to the lug and  that will put pressure on the barrel. For this problem get yourself a couple of small lock washers or just a couple of plain small washers, attached the stock firmly but not to tight and locktite the screw to hold it firm.  

If you wish to bed the forestock you can do so but bed it only as far out as the end of the chamber area.  If you do that don't forget to bed the squared back end of the forestock.

These techniques for the 7400 were written up in one of the gun mags about 15 years ago and my buddy and I did exactly as they recommended to his 7400 in 06.  The difference went from 4" groups to 1" groups at 100 yds with factory Reminton 180s.  They grouped just as well as the best handloads I could brew up for that rifle.  

As for your trigger - I would check with Wolffe Springs in Pennsylvania to see if they have trigger spring kits for the 7400, or look at the Brownells catalog and see if they have them.  Good luck. HTH.  Mikey.

[gunnut69]

Hey Mikey.. when you bed the back part of the fore stock, what do you bed it too.  The action tube retains the fore stock(The fore end screw goes into the front of the action tube).  The action bar assembly runs back and forth between the barrel and the action tube.  Most of these I've seen used a steel liner to stiffen the fore stock wood to prevent cracking.  I'm confused, not an unusual state of affairs.  Do you bed to the liner? to the bottom of the barrel(how) or the rear of the barrel retension lug??  The barrel of the Remington autoes is connected to the action by the gas system.  There is a sheet metal connector tieing the end of the action tube to the barrel(at the gas block).  That is a very loose fit usually.  Glassing the rear of the fore stock to the action face and loosening the fit of the fore end retainer cap/ liner combo is in opposition.  The action tube hanger could be reworked to apply pressure from the fore end tube and the barrel, either down tension or upward pressure..  as long as the gas system isn't pushed out of alignment.

[Mikey]

Mornin' gunnut69:  There was some wobble in the forestock and it didn't fit tightly or firmly.  The back end of the forestock looked uneven and did not sit level - it had a wedge/gouge out of it and the varnish or finish material looked like it had all settled to one side.  All I did was to level that and add some bedding to straighten it out.  That was one of the techniques spoken to in that article I read but I don't know if it helped or not.  As to the retaining forend, we set it firm, but not too tight so as to put pressure on it, and lock-tited it.  When you looked at the metal forend cap, the barrel impacted on that metal piece as well as on the platic spacer - We must have done something right because the groups closed up and she shot to within an inch at 100 yds.  HTH.  Mikey.

[gunnut69]

the sheet steel winged looking thing at the rear of the fore stock is supposed to center and support the rear of the fore arm.  the action screw tightness should have little effect on the barrel unless the sheet metal washer that connects the gas tap block to the action tube is affected.  Any tension applied to the barrel from the forearm can cause misalignment of the gas system, a severe no-no.  I have seen the gas block bedded to the forearm to just touch.  It was supposed to 'deaden' the barrels vibrations..  Do you remember the article...or it's source.  I see a lot aof the Remington autoes and most could do with a little better accuracy..  whatever you did if it worked and was safe it wass just the ticket!!!

[TennesseeNuc]

147,
I once had a Rem 7400 that would give me a 10" string for a group @ 100 yds..  After trying many fixes, I took it to a local gunshop and "converted" it to a model 700 mountain rifle.  That solved my problem. :grin:
Best,
TnNuc

[victorcharlie]

Well, my 7400 in .270 winchester isn't that bad..........but  2" groups are about as good as it gets with mine..........please keep us posted on your progress.....If you find something positive........

[Judson]

If you want an accurate semi then get the BAR or better still the Springfield M1A, not cheep but you get what you pay for.    The 7400 is a rifle designed for a life of around 500 rounds and that is according to a Remington rep.    Do not expect too much from these rifles they are designed for hunters not marksmen!    You can make some improvements on the 7400 the best is to trade it for a bolt gun if accuracy is what you want.    The problem is it is a lot more costly to make an accurate semi then a bolt.    The M1A will hold it's own against most bolt guns but you have to pay the price for the accuracy.    My M1A will shoot five shot groups that measure .75"   the bolt guns I build will shoot .5" or better.
    You have to keep in mind Remington designed the 7400 for the deer hunter who shoots a box of ammo, mabe two a year it was not designed for the avid shooter or marksman.

[gunnut69]

The 7400-742 autoes have a lot of faults.  If they are not properly maintained they will rapidly self destruct.  Properly maintained however they can last nearly forever.  They don't have finely tunable triggers and are by no means as accurate as one of Judson's beauties!  These rifles will however easily bring honme the annual vension and are ususally quite accurate enough for hunting.  Some see accuracy as necessary for hunting.  I believe the hunting part of the equation is more important.  Accuracy is important but .5 inch groups are not required for big game hunting at any sane range.  The 2 inches quoted earlier is perfectly adequate for 99% of normal deer hunting.  While the Remington autoes are somewhat flawed they are, if in good condition, adequate for hunting..  It is perfectly OK to try and make them shoot better, just don't let that become a reason to dismiss them.  In my experience that guy behinf the butt plate is a lot more important than the rifle he's using..

[Judson]

Gunnut is right.    The Remington autos are a hunting tool and as such work OK.    They are popular with some hunters and if not asked to perform out side their realm are fine.   From a automotive perspective the 7400 is basic transportation and we should not try to turn it into a Dodge Viper.

[147 Grain]

Followed the advice above and after bedding the action / stock / installing a LimbSaver Barrel De-Resonator / adjusted trigger to 3 lbs., my 7400 30-06 is shooting groups that vary between 7/8" and 1 1/8" off a benchrest and 1 3/4" to 2" groups offhand - using 180-gr. Federal Solid Base rounds.

Speer Hot Core 165-gr. were slightly more accurate and shot the smaller groups, with the 180-gr.'s being the largest.

Will try some Nosler Ballistic Tips and AccuBonds next.

Steve

P.S.  Groups definitely open up when the barrel's hot, but no accuracy problems in firing a quick 4-round magazine from a cold barrel.