Author Topic: Help with cleaning Ruger Old Army ? (Read 934 times)

brudford · « **on:** August 01, 2005, 01:16:12 PM »

Just purchased ROA and everything I read states,do not use any petroleum based oils on black powder guns,is this just the inside of the
bore and cylinder chambers ? Can I wipe the outside of the pistol with
petro based oils ? The Ruger manual say's to oil the bore and use a oily
cloth on the outside surfaces ??

Flint · « **Reply #1 on:** August 01, 2005, 02:44:09 PM »

I use Ballistol inside and Breakfree outside.

ribbonstone · « **Reply #2 on:** August 01, 2005, 04:29:39 PM »

IF all you ahve are petroleum based oils, then can use them on the inside of the barrel and the chambers...just remove it before loading and shooting. Couple of pathces wet with solvent, a couple of dry patches, and snap a percussion cap or two on each nipple (same drill for non-petroleum based portection...wet powder or a clogged nipple isn't going to work no matter what oil is used).

ronbow · « **Reply #3 on:** August 02, 2005, 05:11:17 AM »

I use TC Bore Butter in barrel and cyls. and Remington gun oil on outside. Also coat nipples with the Bore Butter. No problems.

howdy doody · « **Reply #4 on:** August 08, 2005, 06:37:16 PM »

I live in a pretty dry climate. I clean by soaking my cylinders in a plastic bowl with hot water and dawn dishsoap. I take a patch and rotate it in the cylinders until clean and then take a toothbrush to the nipples. I have a small air compressor and I blow the cylinder dry and blow the nipples clear and I take the toothbrush and clean the deposits from the hammer, slot, backplate and on some of my C&Bs the top strap. I do not field strip my pistols unless I am making adjustments. I do not use ballistol any more, but I use breakfree clp on all the internals and leave my cylinder bores dry. I have no rust problem. I don't even fire caps before loading when I go to a match.
I would use the breakfree in the cylinder bores if I was subject to humidity or real cold weather. I would swab them clean with alcohol or such to remove the breakfree from the bores and fire off caps before loading to make sure I was dry for loading. I put a small amount of neversieze on my nipples and I seldom take them out. The neversieze makes it possible to get them out when I want too. For me it is good fitting pins and just breakfree. The ROA bushing is one of the best things about ROAs. It is amazing how the bushing keeps fouling from slowing the action.
There must be about a million tricks and I have tried quite a few. I like to keep it as simple as I can and I hate rust. I tried ballistol for years before giving up on it. The gobs of goo build up actually caused me problems with my 58 remmies. I must have been doing something wrong, but I have had nothing but good luck with breakfree. Just my opinion of course.
I shoot competion near every week with one set of C&Bs or another and I can't afford to have a misfire or anything other than a smooth working pistol.
I have six ROAs and I suppose I should read the manual. As some of you that know me know, I have modified C&Bs.

ronbow · « **Reply #5 on:** August 09, 2005, 02:29:49 AM »

So Doody, how do you clean the inside of the nipples. Does a toothbrush do the job ? It would be nice if I didn't have to remove them after every shooting episode. Thanks.

howdy doody · « **Reply #6 on:** August 09, 2005, 10:23:30 AM »

Ronbow, I clean the nipples on the outside with soapy water and a toothbrush. I blow my cylinders dry and take extra care to blast the nipples well. I have an air compressor, but before I did I had a tire inflator. Cost me about $20 and it came with a small nozzle too. I use a small tipped air gun now. I think I got the tire inflator at Kragens/Shucks auto parts store. 110v and it runs continually. I do not use a pick at all. The last thing I want is bigger holes, that causes caps to blow off and gum up the works.
I have a way of cleaning nipples on the outside while at a shoot. I have a small piece of synflex (plastic tubing) that fits right onto my nipples. I happened to have a 6 pointed cutter that is very sharp that came with my dremel. I put the tubing in the vise and force the small cutter into the tubing. I now have a tube with little flaps on the inside. I will run that over my nipples after about 3 stages ( 15 rounds each pistol, for non CAS shooters). This helps me fully seat my caps onto my Treso nipples with only my Ted Cash double fingered stick capper.
I can't afford to go around a second time if all the first hit did was seat the cap. I demand the same reliable boom, clang that cartridge shooters do.
Along the same lines, I keep a silicone sprayed 10 gauge bore mop in a plastic sleeve and I run that up and out of my SxS chambers after 3 stages also. That keeps my empty hulls flying out with a flip of the wrist upon firing.
I shot a pair of 8" barreled ROAs two matches this past weekend and I had not shot them since moving ( before January ) I did nothing to them other than switch grips when I dug them out from in back of the safe. I am used to gunfighter grips, but am too cheap to outfit all my ROAs with them.
I hope this helps. Remember the neversieze. Good clean and dry threads, a thin coat of neversieze ( available at auto parts stores in small tubes ) and tighten down flat.
When setting up C&Bs, I like to measure the cylinder and nipples together. That way each is at the same height. Uberti and Piettas vary and sometimes thin shim washers are needed for all to be exactly at the same height. I have not had to shim an ROA though, but I have had to file a couple standard Ruger stainless nipples that were too long. I measure with a digital verneer caliper.
To make a C&B sing it does take some initial setting up, but it is well worth it in the end.
:-)