Author Topic: Should I build a stock dryer (and other refinishing tips)...  (Read 429 times)

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Offline jason280

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other refinishing tips)...
« on: August 14, 2005, 09:07:31 AM »
I picked up another rifle yesterday, and it will probably serve as my winter project (in August).  Not that I need another project, but you know how it goes.  Anyway, the first thing I am going to do is refinish the stock.  Luckily, the previous owner had all ready stripped the original finish, so all that is required is a little sanding before I begin.  

The wood is fairly plain, and I think it is Walnut (may be birch).  It does have a decent grain, so here's my first question.  What is the best way to bring the grain out?  I've heard mineral spirits will work, or should I buy regular wood conditioner?  Also, how much time is required for it to dry?

I haven't really decided on a finish yet.  I've looked at Tung Oil and Boiled Linseed Oil, and I've considered the old stand by Tru Oil.  Do any offer any specific advantages over the others, as far as a sealant or ease of use?  Also, if I want a specific color, do I stain with it prior to using the oil?  

Finally, I understand how critical it is to allow the wood to dry in between coats.  I got the idea to simply make a wood box larger than the stock, wire in a light socket with bulb, and close the stock inside.  The light bulb should heat the box and keep moisture to a minimum.  Will building a "dryer" speed up the process, or will this be a waste of time?  Thanks!
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Offline Mac11700

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other ref
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2005, 07:59:43 PM »
Well...I'll try to help...yes...building a drying box can speed up the process quite a-bit...especially if you have high humidity where ever you are drying it...but your going to need a much larger box to allow air circulation in it if you haven't elected to put some type of filtered fan on it...I used to have the plans for a couple different designs of my Fathers when he was in the stockmaking buisness...but unfortunatly they were destroyed...along with a-lot of other family hierlooms...but...if memory serves me right...the box was made out of 1/2" reinforced plywood...with a piano hinged door...running verticlly...and the size was 2'x2'x4'...he had 1 small reversable filtered fan on the top...and 1 on the bottom...and used 2- 50 watt spot light for it...1 was down low...and 1 was 3/4 the way up...he did a-lot of bolt guns...thus the reason for the lenght of it...but also built quite a few shotgun stocks as well...

Yes...you should stain prior to apply any oil...and yes...regular wood conditioner works well for highlighting the grain...allow 24 hours drying between coats...

Tru-oil works good...and cures the fastest...but if you want a deep mirror finish.. the kind that looks like your looking thru several feet of crystle clear water into a mirror....it will take...between 25 and 30 coats...wire wooling after 24 hours...and if it is pourous...you will need a pore sealer prior to applying any finish coat....if the wood is good enough and has some great graining to it...you might want to try Tung oil...it takes longer...it's thicker...and you have to work it in harder by hand...but when you do...it can be stunning...time wise...figure at least 3 weeks for a real good finish...and you do have to wire wool between coats with this as well...Boiled linseed oil...for a matt finish...it is pretty good...but you won't bring out all the colors to the wood with it...it darkens quickly...and has the tendacy not to cure completly..

Here's my custom stocks...I had them on my 243 barrel...but sold it to mitchell...now it's on my 45-70...but soon will be moved over to my 270 Ultra-Comp...I haven't finshed it completely...and will be wooling it...and adding more Tru-Oil to it...right now...I believe it's at 20 coats..and I'm not completely happy with it yet...it  will be getting as many coats on it till I am satisfied...




Hope that helps...

Mac
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Offline Fred M

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other ref
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2005, 08:00:23 PM »
Jason.

Quote
What is the best way to bring the grain out? I've heard mineral spirits will work,


Mineral spirits will do nothing and should not be used because it is poor on wood for drying. If you want to bring out the grain use a broad torch flame
at a distance not to burn the wood. Be careful on edges best to cover them with modeling clay or they turn black.

grain can be high lighted by the use of nitric acid with some fine steel wool dissolved in the acid for a different color. Pure nitric acid will give you a reddish brown streak. Apply with Q-tip. Wash and neutralize with water and let dy and then sand.  This will be a permanent stain. Practice on a flat piece of walnut first

Quote
I've looked at Tung Oil and Boiled Linseed Oil, and I've considered the old stand by Tru Oil.


Linspeed stock finish is best, Tung oil and Linseed oils are not really very suitable unless you get the refined oils that have the non drying elements removed. You would have to add turpentine and Japane dryer and Venice of tupentine to give it body. Linspeed a very good product, True oil works well too.

Quote
Finally, I understand how critical it is to allow the wood to dry in between coats.


It is not the wood that needs drying it's the finish you put on that should be dry. Each coat is sanded with 800 grit wet paper and washed off let dry and then a new coat is put on until all pores are filled.
Fred M.
From Alberta Canada.

Offline jason280

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other ref
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2005, 12:38:22 PM »
Thanks for the info!
"Hey Peter, check out Channel 9!!"

Offline Norseman112

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other ref
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2005, 02:07:15 PM »
Mac,

Every time I see that pic your handi the more I want to make one like that! Its just so pretty is a real understatement.  I know what I will be doing this winter.

Norse

Offline Mac11700

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other ref
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2005, 07:50:09 AM »
Norse... :oops: ...Thanks...I'm fixing to take it down a few coats...then reapply about 10-20 more coats...I should have it where I want it by then...then...I have this niffty little 22Hornet barrel just waitng to get out-fitted to them...my oldest son has eyes for it...he's already becoming addicted ...he just doesn't know it.....:)

Mac
You can cry me a river... but...build me a bridge and then get over it...

Offline ONE HOLE 4570

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other ref
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2005, 08:06:52 AM »
I hear ya Mac my son has become addicted as well. Very nice job on those stocks I may have to give it a try one day with an old pallad wood one to start never have got into the refinishing thing, too impatient I think but it may be worth a try if they turn out half as nice as yours great job:agree:
That's my boy, GOD BLESS AMERICA!!

Offline Wlscott

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other ref
« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2005, 09:13:45 AM »
Mac, my daughter is getting to be the same way.

I just took her 7MM08 stock down and refinished it.  I used a lighter stain than the factory stain, then went over it with Tung Oil, and lastly Linseed Oil.  It's going to be nice when it's done.

I'll post pics of it in another post when I'm done.
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Offline Mac11700

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Should I build a stock dryer (and other ref
« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2005, 07:07:59 PM »
Wiscott:

I'm looking forward to seeing it :agree:

Mac
You can cry me a river... but...build me a bridge and then get over it...