Author Topic: Cylinder Loading Tool For Ruger Old Army????????????? (Read 3172 times)

J.Solo · « **on:** March 07, 2003, 12:48:50 PM »

I thought I saw a loading tool available for loading cylinders out of the revolver. If I remember right, the cylinder was placed upright in a fixture, powder poured in, ball put in place and a hand operated ram was then used to seat the ball over the powder charge. Anyone seen this tool? Price? Availability? Thanks - J.Solo

simonkenton · « **Reply #1 on:** March 07, 2003, 01:10:32 PM »

I was looking at one the other day in Bass Pro Shop for $19. It is for the Piettas they sell. I imagine it would work for the Ruger, but don't know for sure. I hear Cabela's sells one, might be the same tool.

Flint · « **Reply #2 on:** March 07, 2003, 03:09:46 PM »

I have one, I'll check it against the Ruger cylinder. Cabelas sells it for $20.00, it is actually for the 1873 C&B they sell, but a friend of mine loaded 1860 Army cylinders on it, and it seems like it would work with the 1858 Rem. Uberti used to make it, now it's Pietta. It's handy for loading up spare cylinders for a match, or for loading cylinders for a gun with a short loading lever. (like the new 5-1/2 inch ROA?)

xnmr53 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2003, 04:00:56 PM »

I would think that it would be easier than loading with the cylinder in the gun, especially if you are shooting something like a Remington or Ruger where the cylinder is so easy to extract or if you like to swab the chambers between firings. You can see exactly what you are doing and have both hands free to work.

Flint · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2003, 07:14:43 AM »

I checked the loading tool with an Old Army cylinder, and the cylinder pin in the Ruger is a hair smaller than the pin in the loader. (.225 to .230) To use the tool with an Old Army we'd have to either turn down the tool's pin about .010 inch, or make a new one for that gun's use. If you don't have another brand of cylinder to match, you could turn some material off the tool's cylinder pin. I might make a bushing or a new pin for open top colt size, and turn the existing pin for the Ruger and it will also fit the Remington. The thread is most likely Metric on the tool, I didn't find a match for it in my toolbox. It's diameter is like a number 12, (about .210), too large to be a 5mm, too small to be 6mm, and the thread is almost 24 pitch, so a #12-24 goes in and stalls in about 1/4 inch in. Anyway, it can be made to work.

Dan Chamberlain · « **Reply #5 on:** March 09, 2003, 08:26:47 AM »

xnmr53

The loading tools found on copies of original pistols are not fragile, but they are prone to wear and they do take a lot of strain over time. If you shoot a lot, like I do, you will find your Colt copies take a lot of strain on the cylinder pin where it screws into the slide and it is not a very deep set. Better to use a loading tool at the range when lots of firing is being considered.

Dan C

J.Solo · « **Reply #6 on:** March 09, 2003, 01:30:49 PM »

Flint:
Is the cylinder holding pin located in the botom of the tool, removeable so it can be ground smaller? How is it held in place?
Based on the comments listed here and especially by Dan Chamberlain, I think a modified loading tool is the way to go. Now.... Where can I find one? I looked through a couple of Cabella's catalogs and can't find any. Thanks again - J.Solo

xnmr53 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 09, 2003, 02:07:48 PM »

Dan,

I've never shot the Colts, always the Remingtons or Rugers, and I am using combustible cartridges.

I have been thinking of buying a short-barreled Navy. I'll have to give the point about the loading some real thought if I do.

It wouldn't be too hard to set up a reloading tool on a tray that held everything I needed, so that I could just carry it over to the unloading table and recharge my guns while I monitor the table.

Given that some of the unloading tables are not real substantial, I might want to put some sort of handle on the base so that I can squeeze it like a pair of pliers.

Flint · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2003, 05:12:13 AM »

Cabelas has the cylinder loading tool listed on their website, it is associatewd with the 1873 Cap & Ball revolver (looks like a standard SAA Colt, but has a percussion cylinder). Since that revolver has no loading lever and rammer (actually has a fully functional ejector rod, spring and housing) it needs the cylinder loading tool. Check the website. They changed from Uberti to Pietta, so a catalog printed in the meantime might not have it. The cylinder pin in the loading tool is threaded into the base, with a screwdriver slot at the top to install/remove it. This is the thread I was questioning the form of as it doesn't seem to be English or Metric. I just checked the website, and it's listed, but noted out of stock, you'll have to wait, apparently, and it says they can't be back ordered. Copy the following mess to your address line to see it.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/pod/standard-pod.jhtml?id=0012105&navAction=push&navCount=2&indexId=cat20817&parentId=cat20817&parentType=index&rid=&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fcatalog%2Fpod-link.jhtml.2_A&_DAV=http%3A%2F%2Fa1460.g.akamai.net%2Ff%2F1460%2F1339%2F6h%2Fwww.cabelas.com%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcontent%2FPod%2F01%2F21%2F05%2Fp012105ii01.jpg

simonkenton · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2003, 09:25:41 AM »

The Bass Pro Shop in Atlanta had two of them on the shelf a few days ago. If you called them maybe they would ship you one.
They have a very good blackpowder online catalog, check it out.

Flint · « **Reply #10 on:** March 13, 2003, 07:04:44 AM »

Solo, the cylinder pin thread is what I was referring to in my first post, the cylinder pin is threaded into the base. My problem, for trying to make replacement pins, is that I can't identify the thread as it doesn't seem to match any, English or Metric. It's larger than 5mm, smaller than 6mm, about the same as #12, but the thread pitch seems to be metric. The tool comes completely knocked down, you have to assemble the parts when you get it.

The Shrink · « **Reply #11 on:** March 17, 2003, 04:39:29 AM »

Gentlemen

I wanted one, and my sons tried to get me one for my birthday. Cabelas sent the money back, saying it was a "seasonal item", I assume fall. Went to Dixie's web site, couldn't find it with a search of the stock number. Just called Dixie, order is in, with no problem. Not sure what's wrong with the web site on this item, but they do have it and are taking orders for it.

longhorn · « **Reply #12 on:** March 17, 2003, 03:44:20 PM »

Shrink do you have a part number for that item. Also what is dixie's web address? Thanks Longhorn

The Shrink · « **Reply #13 on:** March 18, 2003, 07:41:35 AM »

Longhorn

It's Dixiegunworks.com The part number that the web site didn't find is from the '02 catalog, #151, and is GA0427.

Good luck!

Gatofeo · « **Reply #14 on:** March 18, 2003, 04:26:26 PM »

I think the concern over loading levers wearing out or being strained is a non-issue with normal use.
I use nothing but the loading lever on my Colt 2nd generation 1851 Navy, Uberti copy of the Remington .44, Pietta copies of the 1860 Colt and 1858 Remington .36 and Armi San Marcos copy of the 1862 Colt Police in .36 caliber.
If you use pure lead (Brinnell Hardness 3 to 5) the ball is easily seated. Very hard alloys, such as Linotype (BH 22), can resist seating and strain the rammer.
Strain on the rammer can result in using too much powder and not leaving enough room for the ball.
If this happens, remove the cylinder and unscrew the nipple from the offending chamber.
With a small wooden stick or a small, long brass bolt, work some of the powder out from behind the ball. Never use steel or any substance that may cause a spark, and keep the cylinder pointed in a safe direction.
Rescrew the nipple back in the chamber, return the cylinder to the revolver, and seat it down firmly on the powder.
There must be NO space between the ball and powder or a dangerous situation may exist.
Unless you have a poorly made cap and ball revolver you should have no problem with your rammer during the life of the gun --- provided you use it properly.

The Shrink · « **Reply #15 on:** March 19, 2003, 01:27:25 AM »

Gatofer

I agree that the wear out issue is probably overdone. My interest is in loading my short barreled Sherriff's model. The loading lever is so short I don't have adequate leverage to load the ball, so I'm looking for an alternative method. I thought about making a rod to slip over the loading lever, but to slip it over the locking pin would make the hole ovrsize and that's an akward solution to my thinking. If I were to carry this for plinking or anything were I were loading it in the field I'd probably go that way, but so far it's only shot at the range. No oppoutunity for field carry around here, anyway!

If I did have the opportunity, I'd probably strap on my Rogers & Spencer in spite of the the weight. It's by far the most accurate C&B pistol I own. If I need to carry for a serious purpose, it's my SIG!

xnmr53 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 19, 2003, 06:58:45 PM »

Shrink,

Who made your Sherrif's model and what caliber is it?

What do you think of it?

The Shrink · « **Reply #17 on:** March 20, 2003, 12:55:26 AM »

xnmr53

It's the Pietta 1851 Navy Yank Sherriff's model in .44 by Pietta. Basically the price was right ($125.00) and it fit in the frame I was making for my other C&B revolvers. (Roger's and Spencer and LeMat) They hang on the wall over our fireplace - I have a very tolerant LOML - but then I tolerate her rocks - she's a geologist. Yes, she shoots them too. I'm waiting the loading tool before I put it through it's paces to find out how it shoots. It's a pain to load with that short loading lever.

simonkenton · « **Reply #18 on:** March 20, 2003, 02:22:33 AM »

If you are interested in a Sheriff's model in blue, I saw two of them in a store yesterday. The only ones I have seen in a catalog are nickel plated. Franklin's of Athens Ga. had one that was a .44 Colt Army, the other was the .44 "Navy", with the octagonal barrel. Seems like one was $150, the other $180. 706-543-7803 I think both are Pietta.

BJ · « **Reply #19 on:** March 20, 2003, 03:50:16 AM »

Dixie also lists one in their inventory.

The Shrink · « **Reply #20 on:** March 20, 2003, 03:20:02 PM »

Gentlemen

Just got the loading tool from Dixie. It's made by Pietta. First, if you get one, don't pound the wooden handle all the way down to the base of the shank. It splits, or at least mine did. The round ferrel turned oval. Just not good workmanship. I'll have to turn another one.

Second, the loading lever tightens when the lever is almost 90 degrees away from the cylinder. This may be deliberate, maybe I'm supposed to load the cylinder with the loading lever swinging loose. Otherwise I'll have to shim with some washers. Probably have to get some thin brass stock to make the final shims. The other advantage is that, maybe, I'll be able to load my huge LeMat (nine shot) cylinder with it with some fiddling. I have the full arc of the swing to work with.

Got some of their artificial sperm whale oil also, anybody used this?

J.Solo · « **Reply #21 on:** March 21, 2003, 12:55:27 PM »

After reading the last post I think I'll build my own reloading tool. The only issue I think I'lll have is putting the concave area into the end of the shaft to match a ball or conical bullet. I saw the loading tool on Midsouth's WEB page and it did not look really sturdy for the $21.97 price. - J.Solo

The Shrink · « **Reply #22 on:** March 21, 2003, 01:30:39 PM »

Oh, it's plenty sturdy! I turned a wooden filler so my C&B cylinder would fit on the cylinder pin, put in some powder, a wad, and a conical. Oops! Too much powder. Put all my weight on it, (210 lb) pushing down. Seated the conical almost enough. Cut the top off with my jack knife and the cylinder turns ok. Used less powder in the rest of em. No damage to the loading tool, nothing bent, it took it without complaint. Haven't turned a new handle yet, had to work today.

Will shoot it off tomorrow. Taking the loading tool along.

J.Solo - I think you should be able to grind the cavity with a grinding ball that's around .450-.457. Shouldn't be too hard to find, something to fit on a drill chuck. Maybe have to go to one of the industrial supply houses. May have to get two, I'm not sure how much you'd loose in the initial shaping. Then polish with paper, going increasingly finer to around 600 grit wet/dry. If I did it I think it would be a good excuse to try fire bluing!