Author Topic: trunions (Read 794 times)

john pike · « **on:** October 21, 2005, 03:01:07 PM »

im thinkin i should have drilled my holes, first for my trunions,,,
grrrrrrr,,
johnp

GGaskill · « **Reply #1 on:** October 21, 2005, 04:20:29 PM »

Hope you have a milling machine; you want flat bottomed holes (or at least I do them with flat bottomed holes.)

Take a pair of V-blocks (one for the muzzle ring and one for the base ring) and shim the muzzle ring so the axis is horizontal. Then your only problems will be clamping the barrel so it doesn't move while you are cutting the holes and rotating exactly 180 degrees so the trunnions are opposite each other.

john pike · « **Reply #2 on:** October 21, 2005, 05:06:05 PM »

Quote from: GGaskill

Hope you have a milling machine; you want flat bottomed holes (or at least I do them with flat bottomed holes.)

Take a pair of V-blocks (one for the muzzle ring and one for the base ring) and shim the muzzle ring so the axis is horizontal. Then your only problems will be clamping the barrel so it doesn't move while you are cutting the holes and rotating exactly 180 degrees so the trunnions are opposite each other.

just finished, i sweated it let me tell ya,
im not a real machinest,
ive alot to learn when it comes to milling, i shake rattle and roll,

funny, did it just how you discribed, ha,,,
set a block at the rear, for a set point,
marked the front using the point of a tap in the drill head,
drilled hole, switched flattened it out with a mill bitt,

marked the table, rolled it to the front, spun the barrel, mark,
re-did all the above,

not bad for a beatup carpenter, wannabemachinestinmynextlife

johnp

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #3 on:** October 22, 2005, 01:01:33 AM »

So did you take a few pictures for us to learn from?

Or are you leaving that to the real machinists?

Regardless of your skill levels, the pictures are informative for all. (Some of them I've posted are accompanied with the statement that I'd NOT do it this way next time.)

john pike · « **Reply #4 on:** October 22, 2005, 08:17:05 AM »

Quote from: Cat Whisperer

So did you take a few pictures for us to learn from?

Or are you leaving that to the real machinists?

Regardless of your skill levels, the pictures are informative for all. (Some of them I've posted are accompanied with the statement that I'd NOT do it this way next time.)

O.K. i added my setup pics showing how ive beat my milling table all up,
and have scratched my cannon too, re-polish,,ha,,

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #5 on:** October 22, 2005, 08:22:27 AM »

Good stuff !

I like the support directly under the end-mill!

How did you mark/realign to rotate it 180 degrees?

john pike · « **Reply #6 on:** October 22, 2005, 10:25:21 AM »

Quote from: Cat Whisperer

Good stuff !

I like the support directly under the end-mill!

How did you mark/realign to rotate it 180 degrees?

first i said a prayer, it helps,
then i chucked in a small tap with a sharp point.

ran my carrage (after marking the location) to the end of the cannon.
lowered the tap to the bottom of the barrel.
marked it with a dental pic(there sharp)
you can just see the mark/scratch

brought the tap point to the top of the barrel.

then loosened up the top clamp, heres where the prayer comes in.
slowly spun the barrel to locate the scratch with the point of the tap.

locked it down,

moved table back to original position.
drilled.
switched
and milled

johnp

Cannonmaker · « **Reply #7 on:** October 23, 2005, 06:16:17 PM »

Milling the recess to recieve the trunnions is the last step I do in maching the tube. I level and clamp the tube in the mill, leaving the muzzle un obstructed I apply blueing to the muzzle face. I place a block in front of the muzzle, and make a light horzintal mark across the muzzle. when I turn the tube over I rotate to level the mark. Also if the block is clamped the two trunnion holes will be in the same plain.