Author Topic: Tru-Oil Stock Finishes  (Read 1086 times)

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Offline SuperstitionCoues

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Tru-Oil Stock Finishes
« on: October 28, 2005, 05:31:01 PM »
Hello.   I've been away for a while - been trying to get my thesis written so I can graduate finally and go onto a doctorate candidacy.

Anyway, for relaxation I've been working on a Lyman GPR in .54 cal percussion.  I'm at the stage of the stockwork and then final assembly. The last gun I used Permalyn's polyurethane finish.  

This time, I started experimenting with a bunch of different finishes over the summer.  Right now, I'm working with Tru-Oil, experimenting on a piece of oak (walnut is real hard to find out here in Az.) with filling the grain with the slurry that Tru-Oil makes when wet sanded.  So far, I'm really impressed with the amount of beauty that it is bringing out of the wood.  

I stained the chunk of oak with a dark Minwax stain.  I expected it to all but remove it when I began to sand the slurry.  Instead, a beautiful combination of browns and golds, with flecks of black where the deep grain is, has emerged.  If this is how my European Walnut stock is going to turn out, then I can't wait.  I plan on also putting a coat or two of Trewax (carnauba, beeswax and other things) on it as a final dressing

I was wondering what your experiences with Tru-Oil have been, both good and bad.  Will it provide a durable finish, and how should I care for it in the years to come?
I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person.

Offline dodd3

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« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2005, 01:45:53 PM »
hey super its the one i always use,
bernie i think it is one of the better ones i have never had any probs with it not protecting my stocks. :D
if its feral its in peril

Offline Slamfire

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« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2005, 05:20:05 PM »
I bought a Contender with a right handed thumb rest stock, being left handed I also got one for southpaws. The shop didn't want the one that came with the  gun back, so I got to play with it. I sanded it down until it fit my hand pretty well, then put a true oil finish on it. After about 10 or 12 coats and sandings, it took on a deep luster that I liked a lot. Maybe this winter, I'll do the stock on my old Savage, which is lookin' kinda punk.  :D
Bold talk from a one eyed fat man.

Offline SuperstitionCoues

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« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2005, 02:56:58 AM »
Slamfire,

My tests on a piece of oak are becoming discouraging.  Can you help me out here?  

I'm using oak because walnut is really hard to find out here.  I sanded the test piece, and put the second finishing coat on last night. I am already starting to get a really glossy (but not deep) finish similar to what a polyurethane finish will deliver.  It isn't what I am after.  

I'm looking for a more warm, matte finish than the brassy gloss that I'm getting.  Will I be able to get that with the repeated applications that you used for your Thompson?
I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person.

Offline Slamfire

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« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2005, 02:37:32 PM »
I doubt it oak isn't a very dark wood, unless you have a piece of red oak.
Bold talk from a one eyed fat man.

Offline Wynn

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« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2005, 02:59:10 PM »
Tru Oil leaves a glossy finish if not buffed. It contains varnish with a dryer additive and linseed oil. To get a satin finish like you want, put on multiole coats, sanding in between and once you get the depth you want, hand buff it with 4/0 steel wool. Then put your wax on.

Personally, I prefer a hand rubbed linseed oil finish cut with mineral spirits. I let it dry for several days between coats and rub it down with steel wool between coats. I finish it off with multiple coats of Johnson Paste Wax for moisture protection. Looks great and is easy to touch up if needed.
American by birth; Southern by the Grace of God

Offline Swamp Yankee

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« Reply #6 on: November 01, 2005, 10:30:42 AM »
You will get a gloss finish with the true oil. I hand rub 8 to 10 coats just breaking the glase in between coats with 4/0 steel wool. For the last two coats I use the spray tru-oil to get a more even factory like coat. I will let the oil finish cure for a few weeks and rub the stock with Birchwood Casey's Stock Sheen & conditioner. It has a mild abrasive in it and will Knock down the gloss and leave a nice rich low luster finish.....Jim
Avoid the steel wool after the last coat:

Offline rusty51

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« Reply #7 on: November 01, 2005, 07:08:39 PM »
I finished my GPR with boiled linseed oil it turned out real nice.

Offline Black Jaque Janaviac

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« Reply #8 on: November 08, 2005, 08:36:42 AM »
I've used Tru-Oil on several guns.

To get the satin finish I just went over it lightly with steel wool.  This makes it look cloudy and you almost lose sight of the wood.  But then I go over it really good a brisk with a big piece of flannel and TONS of elbow grease.  This restores the transparency of the finish without the glare.
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Hawken - the gun that made the west wild!

Offline Birddog6

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« Reply #9 on: November 09, 2005, 01:38:35 AM »
You are getting the high gloss because you are using too much at a time & leaving it too wet. Use a drop at a time on your index & middle fingers & rub it in with the tips & work a 2-3" circle & rub it in til it is dry. This is a finins that is to be IN the wood, not on the wood & the objext is to have a rubbed IN finsh.  Also you can rub between coats with some 1000 grit paper and this will smooth out your sanding & finish imperfections. Be careful on the edges, use a lil 1" piece around the edges as not to sand the finish out of these areas. As you get  on your 7-8th hand rubbed coats, go to a 1500 and on the last coat rub down with a 2000 grit paper & that will dull it & then you wax it back to the gloss you want.

Lots of times I use Tru-Oil to seal the stock from moisture, then us Tung Oil and put 8-20 coats depending on the rifle.........  This leaves a very nice low gloss finish also.
"If it Ain't a Smokin' & a Stinkin',  it's Merely an Imitation !"