Fix for the Marlin Jam

[Shuttleman]

I just pick up a new 1894C and was reading on the famous Marlin Jam so was looking for comments from those who have done the fix by beveling the cam front edge on a new rifle and how it worked out.

Thanks, Tom

[beckerhead]

I did a complete tune up on my gun per instructions from:
http://www.marauder.homestead.com/files/Marlin94Fix.html
http://marauder.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm
I am a tinkerer, but no expert gunsmith, and I had no problems at all with this job. Pretty much a sandpaper and dremel job. But WOW what a huge difference it makes. The jam related area itself is only a small part of really slicking up the overall action of the gun. I beveled the backside of my mag. follower, and polished it, as well as using a shotgun rod in a drill with an Iosso, (any polish paste will work) coated 20 gauge bore mop to polish the mag. tube. Loading became alot smoother :grin: Then I took my dremel and some soft felt wheels and #6 polishing compound, and mirror polished the ramp all over, and the outside edge of the ejector, and the bolt (paying particular attention to the ejector raceway, mine was rough!) I proceeded to deburr and polish the locking bolt, hammer sides and face (DO NOT reprofile the hammer unless you actually know what you're doing), and basically anything that touched anything else that moved. Alot of it is just following the wear marks and rubbed off bluing to know where to polish. If it is a hunting gun you may or may not want to address the finger lever plunger. It does make shuckin' alot easier, but too much off will have your lever dropping with very little pressure. Not a good thing fumbling around with gloves/mittens in the deer woods. Use you're own discretion. Triggers? I NO mess with triggers. Either have a pro do it, or buy a drop in replacement. I did slick up all the pins and the hammer spring strut too. Just go slow, don't use anything rougher than 400 grit, clean all the parts very well before reassembly, and use a quality lube I like Tetra, but any good lube will work. I did several passes of working on parts and checking function just to be sure I didn't go too extreme with sanding/polishing. Do it right and you will LOVE the results.

[Shuttleman]

Beckerhead, thanks for all the great tips and areas to work.  I just finished the tuning and what a difference!  I didn’t polish the ramp and inside the mag tube.  Sounds like something I should consider.  I also, was kinda hesitant on going the hammer spring.  Did you take off ¾ on both end?  Did you do any polishing to the extractor?  I here it helps in smoothing out feeding the round into the chamber.

Anyhow thanks and let me know on the spring and how it shot.
Tom
 :toast:

[beckerhead]

No, I didn't mess with the spring as I use my gun for hunting only, and don't want a misfire on a big buck or boar! I did however really, really polish the nose of the hammer & the bottom face of the bolt (the section that rides on the hammer). I also did a good deburr on the inside of the frame where the hammer sits, as well as a total mirror polish on the sides, and a slight chamfer on the pin holes using a bullet shaped felt pad. I think that a couple of super thin shims would help with the side to side hammer slop that allows most of the rubbing on the frame. As to the extractor, I polished it more to accent the newly polished bolt than any other reason, I didn't want to mess with the bite at all, and haven't noticed any feeding static at all. The ramp surfaces that ride on the mag. follower/next round, as well as the sides showed some scuffing and wear, so I trued them on a 400 grit covered piece of plate glass, then polished 'em super slick. My policy is, if two pieces shouldn't touch I make it so they don't. If they are supposed to touch, I make 'em as slick as possible. Let me say again, just for drill, other than reprofiling the "jam" pieces, everything else is just made true, and super smooth. Went to the range 2 weeks ago and with plain 'ole green remmy 150's I shot a 3/4" at 50 yds. and a 1" and 1.5" at 100 yds. that is with a $28 Simmons 3X9, in $10 Weaver Quad Lock Rings. Hey, nothing but Primo equipment for me  :lol:

[SuperstitionCoues]

I gotta ask - mainly because I have a 336CS in .30-30.

What is the Marlin jam?

[hogship]

I gotta ask - mainly because I have a 336CS in .30-30.

What is the Marlin jam?

I now have two, and have had a few other Marlin centerfire rifles in the past, but have never experienced this "Marlin jam".......As I understand it, and if the situation is just right, the lever is jammed in the fully open position. I think it has something to do with how the rifle is held during cycling the action.

If I'm wrong about that, we'll hear about it shortly.  

hog