Author Topic: beaver help (Read 484 times)

.17HMR · « **on:** December 04, 2005, 01:58:45 PM »

What is the best set for beaver

I'm using 330s and #4s

Bogmaster · « **Reply #1 on:** December 04, 2005, 02:17:10 PM »

Before an answer can correctly be given,are you totally iced over?

,or do you have some open water in which to set??
Tom

.17HMR · « **Reply #2 on:** December 04, 2005, 02:30:42 PM »

Well the lake is starting to ice over

Its's got open water in places and thin ( 1 1/2 to 2 inches ) ice in some spots

Bogmaster · « **Reply #3 on:** December 04, 2005, 03:19:54 PM »

When open water is available,I use 330s and castor mounds--this is the set that is my bread and butter.
I will set up dam crossovers,when they are available.
I will even break open shore ice,to keep my sets working.
Tom

.17HMR · « **Reply #4 on:** December 05, 2005, 10:29:20 AM »

Hey Bogmaster

theres been a change now my beaver spot is completley froze over. Not thick enough to safly walk on but froze. I can get out to the lodge which is about 5 feet high but can't find and entrence.

So any suggestions?

Thanks

Bogmaster · « **Reply #5 on:** December 05, 2005, 01:44:18 PM »

First-----Be careful,active runs in and out of the lodge,can have extremely thin ice---even at 30 below.Constant beaver activity under the ice,can mean very unsafe ice.
That said---can you see the feedbed? 330s,can be set around the feedbed .Now this is one time I set 330s with the trigger on the top.I bend both trigger wires into a J.I then take and wire together a small bundle of popple,these are rolled onto the end of the J--up the trigger a bit.
The 330s can then be hung with heavy wire or cable.I set them at right angles from the feedbed,so they are easily visble.They must be hung far enough,so that the back of a caught beaver,does not freeze into the bottom of the ice.
We will continue on,as you run into more questions.
Tom