Author Topic: 1710 trigger problem (Read 896 times)

15turkeys · « **on:** April 30, 2004, 01:03:53 PM »

I just received my 1710 trigger unit which has been converted to two-stage. The gizmo that holds the adjustable trigger blade has a screw that sticks out from the trigger housing about 1/4" on the right side (looking toward the muzzle). The protruding screw scrapes against the stock when I try to install the action in the stock. The screw either needs to be shorter or the stock needs a channel cut out for the screw to slip into. The screw has yellow goop on the threads, which makes me think maybe it should not be turned.

Grateful for any advice. The guy who did the work has closed his shop for several days, and I'm anxious to shoot.

nomad · « **Reply #1 on:** April 30, 2004, 01:57:54 PM »

The screw on the right side of the trigger is the sear engagement adjustment screw. Moving it arbitrarily -- without knowing what you're doing -- is asking for problems.

Depending on what 'cam' the guy who did your conversion used, the screw may not even be needed any more...but I can't advise you on that without more information. (Anschutz, I believe, calls that part something other than a 'cam'. In German it's probably the 'pushenreleasendersearthingy'. Anyway, it's the small part that rides the slot in the trigger staff and is positioned against the engagement screw by the weight-of-pull spring.)

Best bet is to simply gouge out a space for the screw to clear the stock. Unless you use a chainsaw, axe or cratering charge, it's not something that anyone will ever see -- and you shouldn't need to remove much wood anyway. It's a very simple operation and if you put a drop of Tru-Oil, tung oil or some such finish on the raw area afterward you'll seal it adequately.

Where are you and who did the conversion? (Neal Stepp in Ft Worth, TX and I worked out a conversion that is IMO superior to the original factory configuration. I've shown it to a couple of others. If any of 'us' did it then I'd at least know where you started from. If OTOH your 'smith used the factory two-stage cam, I couldn't tell you more without having the trigger group in hand.)

15turkeys · « **Reply #2 on:** April 30, 2004, 02:16:25 PM »

Thanks for explaining the screw and advising Dremel surgery (Dremolition?). That sounds like the safest approach.

Steve Moore of 10-Ring Service in Florida did the conversion, but I'm in the SF Bay Area. From what I can tell with the action out of the stock, the second stage is crisp and the pull weight is 2-1/4 lbs.

Bill Courington

nomad · « **Reply #3 on:** April 30, 2004, 03:44:28 PM »

Bill,

If you shoot with Lucho and those guys (you don't have to admit that on a public forum

) try Lucho's trigger.
If it's significantly different from what you have and you want yours more like his, he can tell you how to do that.
IMO the trigger -- as sent from Anschutz -- is poorly balanced; the second stage is too light. (The ones I've played with were about 850-900 gm on the first stage and 100-150 on the second and that makes it very easy to accidentally go 'through' the second stage. I prefer something more like 750/250...and so has everyone I've met who tried one set up that way.)

15turkeys · « **Reply #4 on:** April 30, 2004, 05:12:33 PM »

Looks like the stages are about 840/190. I know what you mean about having a second stage that's too light. My Air Arms ProSport is like that, and some shots get away a little early.

Lucho and I belong to the same club, which denies knowledge of either of us.

Thanks again for sharing the trigger knowledge.

Bill

lucho · « **Reply #5 on:** April 30, 2004, 06:23:02 PM »

15turkeys

I had the same problem. The dremel tool did the trick.

Lucho