Author Topic: beaver skinning  (Read 985 times)

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Offline creekchub

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beaver skinning
« on: December 24, 2005, 12:35:10 AM »
i've heard of two ways to skin a beaver one is to case skin it and then cut down the middle.  the next is to clean skin.  i've seen this done one time at a OSTA demo,  for a first time trapper what would be your recommendations on skinning.  also i've seen the demonstrator use a cradle to lay the beaver in as he is skinning, is this a must have item.   if so i have the material to make one here at home but would like some dimensions so i can build one thank
 
mike u

Offline jim-NE

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beaver skinning
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2005, 01:01:27 AM »
I went to clean skinning as a matter of economics for my own line's efficiency. I generally spent the better part of an hour skinning a beaver rough, then breaking my back and oftentimes the quality of the pelt trying to flesh it on a hard wood beam. I watched a demo on clean-skinning, and then sort of self-taught myself from there after that. I now spend less time than I did on each pelt before, but still takes me at least an hour a pelt. But, when I am finished I don't have to break my back or arms over a fleshing beam, I can move right over to the stretcher board and start laying out demensions and a handfull of small nails. Its a much more pleasant and timely process for me, and the buyer seems to prefer the pelts that aren't so beat up from agressive fleshing techniques.
I haven't tried the trough table you mention in your post, though. I just have an old base kitchen cabinet with a decently-sized countertop still attached. The cabinet portion below is a nice place to store the knives, combs, tail zippers, and any other fur shed goodies I need. The top is washable, tough, and provides enough surface area to lay certain specimans on to skin out, namely rats, mink, and beaver. (all the others such as coons and predators get skinned out by hanging from my various gambrel systems).
The trough is an interesting concept to keep floppy, big beavers from moving around on the area you are working on, though. Sometimes I use a small clamp on one edge of this countertop and I can put a beaver tail in that to keep them in position. Other than that, this old kitchen counter I use has seen an awful lot of beaver on it and I just can't see myself going to a lot of effort to modify my setup unless I am convinced of a "better mousetrap" so to speak. Could you (or others?) share some more info with me on this trough-type beaver skinning setup? I'm intrigued by the concept...lay them in, work on one side, then turn them a bit and keep working. Sounds like a great setup.

Offline Tim B

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beaver skinning
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2005, 03:07:06 AM »
Jim--
It is a great set-up....I cvant believe you dont use it.  It keeps the beaver from flopping/rolling like you said.  Mine was made from some scraps and is about 2.5 ft long and the boards are at a 45 angle and are about 12 ...mayne 10 inches deep.  I can rough skin a beaver in about 15 min and then if the pelt is very cold then I can flesh in in another 15 depending on the beaver...of course the kits you can do in a few min and the 70 lbers take a little more.
Tim B

Offline Tim B

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beaver skinning
« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2005, 04:58:43 AM »
I should probably add that a sharp fleshing knife is a must for beaver.  I start at the ears and shave a strip all the way to the tail, then I turn the pelt and shave from the middle to one side and then the same on the other side.  Now you have a hide with a big x or cross fleshed out of it.  Now i flesh off the quarters.
Bog is a beaver man---he could probably give us all some tips....
Tim B