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Author Topic: Anyone Used a 2-handled Flesher?  (Read 499 times)

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Offline Dano Bofano

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Anyone Used a 2-handled Flesher?
« on: January 06, 2006, 05:58:42 AM »
The only person I know of who used it once, said it put a bunch of holes in his pelt and he would never use it again. :x  Was he just using it wrong? :?  It was the first and only time he used it. :roll:
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Offline poncho97

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Anyone Used a 2-handled Flesher?
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2006, 08:48:19 AM »
a two handled flesher is all i use for beavers, otters, fishers coyote, coon etc.  works great but you have to go careful and practice with it until you are competent with it.  take a lot of work out of some things such as large beaver.
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Offline Bogmaster

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Anyone Used a 2-handled Flesher?
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2006, 10:33:00 AM »
Anyone that puts up any amount of fur uses one.I use a single handled one on rats.
 You do need a good beam,when using a fleshing knife.
 Tom
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Offline BC Trapper

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Anyone Used a 2-handled Flesher?
« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2006, 06:44:41 PM »
On larger fur, Coyotes, coon, foxes, wolves, beaver, bobcat etc. I use a 2 handed flesher.
The secret to using a curved 2 handed flesher is to match the curve of the fleshing beam with the inside curve of the knife.  A curved 2 handed flesher's outside is sharp while the inside is dull for pushing fat.  It will also be a lot easier for you if you use a fine, dry sawdust applied to the hide while you flesh as it will help grab the fat.  Do not use plywood sawdust as it has glue in it.  I have used a curved fleshing knife and a beam in my shop for better that 20 years and would not be without one.
cheers
Pete
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Offline jim-NE

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Anyone Used a 2-handled Flesher?
« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2006, 02:54:24 AM »
the bogmaster is right...single handled one for rats, maybe small mink, but everything else I use a two-handled one for. Type of fleshing tool (there are many on the market) is one factor, type of beam you are using...the beam must match the catch and blade both, and then rest is just learning technique to apply when using one.
A coon hide for example, is tough on the back side, especially in the neck region, but the sides and bellies are much softer.
A possum hide is incredibly thin and tears easily, as do fox and cats. Prime coyotes are tough, but they have their tender areas too. Using more of a "push" than a cutting action in some cases works better. Too agressive on beaver and you start tearing out guard hairs...but beaver gristle and fat can really be a chore. Its all about technique. I had to ruin a few hides to get it down myself.
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