Author Topic: Mossberg 500 Mag Tube Removal...? (Read 1025 times)

perklo · « **on:** February 21, 2006, 06:50:58 AM »

I need to replace a mag spring on a 20 year old Model 500. I have the receiver stripped, foreend off and a padded vise ready. I have a BIG Strap wrench to twist with, and a witness mark scribed on the tube of the depth in the receiver.

BUT from past experience, the 500's have red loctite on the mag tube threads. Which would you use to heat: a paint-removal heat gun or a propane torch? And would you heat: the steel tube only near the frame or the aluminum frame and tube where they join?

Whats the limit on heat without damaging the receiver?

How do you know when the loctite is ready to go??

Thanks - perklo

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2006, 07:31:49 AM »

Be sure to use an insert to prevent the receiver from being crushed by the vise..wood will work. I would use a torch but either would likely work. The heat gun may take longer and generate a more generalized amount of heat in the receiver. As to which to heat I would likely heat the receiver as that would enlarge the hole the magazine is located in. I don't know the tempurature that the loctite will turn loose at but it will get plenty hot.. I don't believe a propane torch will damage the receiver although if it's applied too long it may alter the finish.. Just keep trying the tube and applying heat until it rfeleases..

rebel49 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2006, 04:42:13 PM »

Remember the Mossberg receiver is Alloy( aluminum), this material starts to become soft and plastic at about 800 degrees. I would not heat it anymore than 350F, you can use a welders temp stick that melts at 350 to check this. I've removed these before and I made a wrench similar to a barrel wrench/ vise to encircle the whole tube. This will support the tube equal on all sides so that you do not crush it. A strap wrench may crush the tube in the area where the handle of the wrench is applying pressure. Gunnut69 is correct about blocking the receiver to prevent crushing it. Use a heat gun it will give you enough heat to get the job done, just do not over heat, the loctite will give up easy.
Rebel49

perklo · « **Reply #3 on:** February 23, 2006, 07:54:02 AM »

Thanks for the replys...

I also have a pair of Brownell's Mag tube pliers, not a lot of traction (I wish they were "vise-grip" style) but once the loctite releases, I may not need a LOT of force.

Thanks again - perklo

rebel49 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 23, 2006, 04:24:30 PM »

If you need traction try a small piece of rubber or the best thing I've found is get some powdered rosin. You can get powdered rosin at a bowling alley or sporting goods store, it's in a small bag and costs a couple of bucks. Just pat it around on the tube and on the wrench and it will give you more grip.
Rebel49

RugerNo3 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 25, 2006, 01:01:34 PM »

Most lock-tites will soften at 200 deg F. Immerse in boiling water. Those tubes come out quite easily by hand at that point.

perklo · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2006, 01:28:59 PM »

:wink:

That's another good tip...

I got it off this afternoon using the propane torch/strap wrench method.

Here's why I wanted to replace the spring - YUCK!

Thanks again for the advice folks!

- perklo

perklo · « **Reply #7 on:** February 26, 2006, 05:44:01 PM »

One more question.

That mag spring and steel follower were a rusty mess. I'm replacing with a Wolff spring and a Choate high-visability polymer follower - is there any value (or downside) to spraying the spring with AlumiHyde paint or GunKote to rustproof it in the future?

Thanks - perklo

perklo · « **Reply #8 on:** February 27, 2006, 09:25:46 AM »

Talked to Brownell's (had to call them anyway) and their answer is NO to using Gun-Kote or Teflon/Moly on the spring...

It would crackoff with that much flex, and they don't like the idea of even low temp baking of tempered springs.

But yes, use those spray finishes on the inside of the mag tube. Then, spray a goodly amount of Silicone Lubricant Spray on the spring and re-assembly it into the tube with follower...

You can refresh the Silicone 2-3 times a year through the small threaded hole in the tube the barrel bolt screws into without disassembly. Once dry, the silicone resists moisture and won't attract dust or contaminate primers.

Works for me!

- perklo

gunnut69 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 27, 2006, 07:50:13 PM »

I'd check that out first. Some of the silicone sprays I've used get gummy when they dry, not hard.. A metal protectant like SHEATH might be a better way to go..