Author Topic: Browning 5 Failing to Eject  (Read 699 times)

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Offline greer

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Browning 5 Failing to Eject
« on: February 26, 2006, 03:25:01 AM »
http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=86620

Please read this thread from Shotguns and Wingshooting.  I'd appreciate any information or suggestions you might offer.  Thanks, greer

Offline michael orlen

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Browning 5 Failing to Eject
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2006, 04:00:28 AM »
The last step in the rebluing of an auto 5 should be the polishing of the magazine tube. If it was left blue, the surface etching will increase friction and reliable ejection will not be possible.

Offline gunnut69

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Browning 5 Failing to Eject
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2006, 07:41:21 AM »
You said it fails to eject.. Is the fired hull left in the acton, stove piped? etc.. Your right that the A5 should be very reliable. The mag tube should be really slick(polished) and lightly oil the friction ring. When you cycle the action by hand when cold do you feel any slugishness or hesitation? Is the recoil spring in the forearm straight when out of the gun. They will sometimes colapse with age and drag on the forearm tube, slowing bolt velocity.. Is the barrel extension dragging in the receiver? It to should be polished and smooth. You must suspect anything the smith did as part of the bluing operation. Check for easy function of the locking block latch. Check the inside of the receiver for marking or drag marks.. Also I'm not sure 400 grit is a fine enough polish for the mag tube.. I'd shoeshine buff it with 800 or 1000 grit..polishing with crocus at the end..  Small timing issues with the locking bolt and protruding pins etc can cost you critical bolt velocity needed for reliable function..
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline greer

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Browning 5 Failing to Eject
« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2006, 12:05:22 PM »
Thanks. The gun leaves the shell in the chamber. I'm going to polish the mag tube so a fly couldn't lighton it and try again. The fellow wants to buy another mag tube but it will probably be rougher than I can this one. I'll holler back. Thanks            greer

Offline gunnut69

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Browning 5 Failing to Eject
« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2006, 05:02:32 PM »
That means the shell wasn't extracted  from the chamber..  Be sure to check the fit of the barrel extension in the receiver. Also what kind of oil is in there.  The things failure in cold weather may indicate an oil that's jeling in the cold weather.  Someone didn't by chance use a bit of WD40? I'd sure polish the mag tube and lube it lightly per Brownings instructions, but also check for burrs on the barrel extension and lube it properly.
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline Les Brooks

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Browning 5 Failing to Eject
« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2006, 04:52:26 AM »
When the A5 is fired the barrel will needs to recoil all the way to the rear position with the block locked.  The block assembly locks at the rear as the barrel moves forward to eject the shell as the carrier dog will hold in place until the barrel extension get almost in the forward postion.  First thing, polish tube to a high polish length wise.  Must use a heavy grease on the all parts of the action inside the receiver and the magazine tube.  We used Rig grease  and that means to use plenty of grease.  Oil doesn't cling to the parts.  Grease up the inside of the barrel section that has the metal and brass rings slipping into.  Look for a smooth section with the angle where the parts meet on recoil.  Some times we would need to ream the barrel section inside to recut the angle section.  The other thing to look for would be the locking block and the breech bolt.  Sometimes the blocks will be cracked and the locking block rail on the side will be broken off.  This would need to be check at a shop that does major repair on A5's.  I fitted up locking blocks, breech blocks, and barrel extensions.  You need reamers, headspace gauges, and the knowledge to perform these jobs if you are a warranty gunsmith shop.  I tell all young gunsmiths to try getting a job for a couple of years in a major warranty shop for some OJT where you can get information that most smaller shops will never see.  When I started in the early '60, the factory repair person would travel around to the shops and spend all day with us and cover many problems.   Some A5's are still operating after 75 yrs of service.
Grumpy Old Man, Retired Gunsmith