Author Topic: recoil pad flush to stock (Read 431 times)

bluebayou · « **on:** March 07, 2006, 02:33:21 PM »

How do I get a Limbsaver grind to fit (has stiff plastic backer) flush to the stock? I can't get the wood straight. Been using a sanding block and I am guessing that it "gives".

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** March 07, 2006, 04:29:03 PM »

I grind the backer and a little bit of the pad with a bench grinder, leave the pad full size, just make the mating part fit the stock. Here's Limbsaver's installation instructions...

Tim

http://limbsaver.com/limbsaver/technical/installation/assemfaprod/grindtofitinst.aspx

bluebayou · « **Reply #2 on:** March 07, 2006, 05:04:14 PM »

I don't think that I was clear enough. I got the pad shaped correctly to mate up with the contours of the stock. I used the same instructions. WD-40---who'd a thunk it?

My problem is that I can't get the wood of the butt surface flat. The backer is flat and when I bolt the pad to the stock then I get gaps around all sides.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2006, 06:25:27 PM »

Oh, sorry!! :oops: That probably calls for a large file or maybe a disk sander....coarse sand paper on a flat surface or wrapped around a 1"x2"

That almost sounds like trying to get all 4 legs of a chair the same length sorta deal!! :grin:

Tim

knight0334 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2006, 06:29:41 PM »

what I did was, I cut the stock to the length of pull that I wanted with a 12" diamond imbedded carbon disk. Then I had a coworker hold a large belt sander on it's side on a work bench. I then put the butt end against the belt, then he pulled the trigger. mine is as flat as its possible to get. If you try putting the butt end upto a moving belt, all it'll do is kick it around.

bluebayou · « **Reply #5 on:** March 08, 2006, 10:46:45 AM »

Ditto to that chair leg the same length problem. I was smart enough to look at the dining room set and say "that maple just needs some oil on it". Of course the chairs were so dry that the oil separated the joints and then they needed new glue, so I might as well refinish......

Thanks for the info. Between you guys and gunnut I have some ideas to try. I should have thought of putting the paper on a piece of scrap wood.

Cookiemann · « **Reply #6 on:** March 08, 2006, 01:35:57 PM »

The way I do it, is to find the flattest surface that I can and lay the paper 'face up' and go at it that way. Careful how much downward pressure you use, you can take off more than ya think, that way. I would go 2 or 3 long strokes and fit and so on, until it matched. Worked for me, but the wood I was working did not have as large a surface as the end of a stock. Anyway, that's the way I have done it in the past.
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