Author Topic: Hawken Misfires  (Read 1280 times)

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Offline Deer Dave

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Hawken Misfires
« on: January 02, 2006, 06:41:50 AM »
Guys , I am getting frequent misfires in my 54 cal. TC Hawken Flintlock.  I am certain that the touch hole is open and I use FFG in the barrel and FFFFG in the pan.

 I am wondering about the amount of pan powder to use. I am using approx. 2/3 or 3/4 full. Is it better to have the pan half full or completely full?

Also, when I clean the ML for the evening , I always run a good patch with Bore Butter and leave it that way untill I load up for the next day's hunt. Should I run a dry patch before loading?

What brands of black powder do you recommend? Goex, Hodgon, etc?

The pan powder ignites but I am not getting the barrel charge to ignite. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Dave[/code]

Offline Tn Jim

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Hawken Misfires
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2006, 06:50:36 AM »
Yes definately run a patch to clean out the bore butter. If not it can clog the touch hole and prevent ignition even though the pan charge ignites.
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Offline commanche

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hawkin missfires
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2006, 08:39:16 AM »
hello, no expert at this. make sure your touch hole is open.i dont put much powder in the pan, about half full 4f.when i had this happen ,it was bad frizzen on tc hawkins. how old is your gun and is this original frizzen. i would guess and say you have bad FRIZZEN  but you said the pan is igniting.have someone shoot your gun while you watch.do it about 3 times.do this empty, no powder in pan or gun. you should see lots of sparks from frizzen. if not, its frizzen. what i did to correct this was put bevel down on flint and leave it a knickle away from frizzen. thats whay i asked how old gun is.if its old gun 10,20 years old, i can offer more advice but ROUNDBALL  is better than me on hawkins. take care.

Offline Swamp Yankee

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« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2006, 09:31:51 AM »
Dave, I used to fill the pan to the bottom of the flash hole or so, that worked for me.....Jim

Offline flintlock

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Hawken Misfires
« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2006, 10:21:46 AM »
If the powder is igniting in the pan there is nothing wrong with the lock/frizzen/etc....

I fill my lock 1/2 full and have used Goex for about 30 years...Hunting I usually use FFF in both the barrel and in the pan....Competition I use FF or FFF in barrel and FFFF in the pan....

You either have a problem with the touch hole being too small or the touch hole liner not being coned from the inside (If the powder is being ignited by the lock it is OK)...After you load the barrel, look to see if you can see the grains of powder from the touch hole....If so, and you know your powder is good then I would open up the touch hole a bit...

Offline lonewolf5348

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T/C FLINT
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2006, 01:16:02 PM »
I find 2 grains of 4f in the pan works best for me,I also seem to favor to tap the powder away from the touch hole liner.T/C has a new vent liner that installs with an allen key instead of the screw driver slot type.I also up graded my hammer T/C has redesign the new hammer to stike higher on the frizzen plate.I find english flints to work the best bevel down on my two t/c flinters.I also have used t.c new frizzens but do favor fitting lyman frizzens to a t/c lock :D

Offline roundball

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Re: Hawken Misfires
« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2006, 03:34:45 PM »
Quote from: Deer Dave
Guys , I am getting frequent misfires in my 54 cal. TC Hawken Flintlock.  I am certain that the touch hole is open and I use FFG in the barrel and FFFFG in the pan.

 I am wondering about the amount of pan powder to use. I am using approx. 2/3 or 3/4 full. Is it better to have the pan half full or completely full?

Also, when I clean the ML for the evening , I always run a good patch with Bore Butter and leave it that way untill I load up for the next day's hunt. Should I run a dry patch before loading?

What brands of black powder do you recommend? Goex, Hodgon, etc?

The pan powder ignites but I am not getting the barrel charge to ignite. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Dave[/code]


Based on what you've said, and you're using good reliable powder like Goex, fire is simply not getting to the main charge or something is killing the main charge just inside the vent.

One common cause of killing a powder charge just inside the vent is using a wiping patch between shots that is too wet...when compressed into the bore by a cleaning jag, excess liquid is squeezed out of the patch and runs all the way down into the bottom of the patent breech, stopping just inside the vent, and killing the powder charge when it's poured downbore.

The other common cause of your symptoms is that fouling buildup is allowed to accumulate down inside the patent breech, ultimately beginning to block the fire channel from the vent to the main charge.

If you're not aware of it, the breechplug that screws onto the back of a TC barrel has a patent breech design...meaning that there is a tapered cone shaped tunnel drilled down from the rear of the barrel and curves around to the vent location...your bore butter isn't clogging up the vent because it can't get down there...the jag stops on top of the threads where the breechplug is screwed into the barrel...the only thing that will clog up the fire channel in the patent breech is fouling buildup that is not cleaned out after every shooting session.

Since a cleaning jag cannot get down in there because it stops on top of the breechplug, a good inch above the vent, there is nothing that pulls the fouling residue out of that tapered cone unless you also take a regular rife cleaning rod to the range with you, with a small .25/.30cal brush on it, and use the brush to hold a patch and periodically slide it all the way down into the patent breech to pull out fouling residue during a long range session.

And the most efficient and sure-fire (pun intended) way to ensure the patent breech is kept 100% clean and clear of fouling build up in general, is to remove the hooked breech barrel and submerge it in a bucket of steaming hot water to soak, then pump flush it vigorously after every shooting session...then dry and lube the bore & patent breech accordingly.

If everything you wrote in your post is correct, and doing these things plus using the improved vent liner don't fix it, you should consider sending it back to TC to troubleshoot/repair at no charge under their lifetime warranty...Sent it to TC Service Manager Tim Pancurak.
"Flintlocks.......The Real Deal"
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Offline Singing Bear

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Hawken Misfires
« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2006, 06:12:31 PM »
I have a CVA Hawken flintlock, but only shoot it maybe 3 times a year if I'm lucky.  I had the same problem at one shoot.  Main charge wouldn't go off.  Just the flash in the pan.  I removed the barrel and unscrewed the liner.  It has one of those patent breeches and there was no powder in it.  Somehow, because of fowling or whatever, the powder was not falling all the way down.  I put a couple of pan chargerful of 4 f into the breech and replaced the liner and shot out the charge.  Now what I do is after charging the powder I give the action a little bump to ensure that the powder does trickle down to the touch hole.  As long as I do my part and the flint runs a spark, it'll go off.  :-)   Now I gotta figure out how to get the flint to run a spark all the time.  :?
Singing Bear

Offline Deer Dave

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Hawken Misfires
« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2006, 06:15:35 PM »
Thanks to all for the Great Info!!!

Roundball....thanks for the indepth explanation about the patent breech design.


Dave

Offline commanche

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Hawken Misfires
« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2006, 05:16:45 PM »
  roundball is telling you right way to clean a barrel. i dont use soap/water anymore. i use BRAKE CLEANER FROM WAL-MART.it comes with the plastic pipe. i take out the vent liner and spray in cleaner to clean the breech area.make SURE  your muzzle end is pointed down as you spray so the crud goes out your muzz end.then, i also spray bore and let it sit for 5 minutes and in goes wet patch of no.13. then after dry, bore butter.   i DONT use water anymore do to rusting you here about.      i never get rust and i never have a dirty barrel.  i never use WATER to clean anymore. if someone would like to chime in and say the soapy water is better than the brake cleaner, i am all ears.thanks

Offline commanche

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Hawken Misfires
« Reply #10 on: February 01, 2006, 03:38:59 PM »
i have to eat crow here.DONT  use brake cleaner on your gun.it will take blueing off your barrel.it does clean inside of bore real good but get it on outside blueing, it will come off.                                                                          sorry, i said i like it, i dont now and dont rec. using it on your gun.i would stay with soap /water or black powder solvent l.

Offline smokepolehall

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Hawken Misfires
« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2006, 12:58:08 PM »
Deer Dave i don't know if you have fixed flash in the pan yet? Just a few more tips. Make sure to wipe off flint and frizzen and pan prior to loading. You may want to stick a feather or pipe cleaner in vent hole until finished loading, keeps vent clear of powder. 1/3rd. pan of 4f is about right and try to keep it on side away from vent hole. If that doesn't take care of it sumpin ain't right!
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Offline horseman308

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Hawken Misfires
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2006, 05:02:49 AM »
All the rest of the advice here sounds pretty good. I'd add that you might try enlarging the touch-hole liner to 1/16" or better yet install one of Jim Chambers' White Lightnin' liners. Both ways are really good at getting the main charge within a couple of grains of the primer. It's almost like having a continuous line of powder.
You only take one shot at a time, so don't waste it :cb2: