7-30 WATERS FROM 375 WINCHESTER BRASS

[A MOOSE 4 GOD]

[bIf anyone out there can help i would like to know what is involved in taking 375 Winchester brass and making 7-30 waters out of it? I've done it with 30-30 brass and fire formed it but was told you can do it with 375 without fire forming. the 375 is a heavier brass and like to know if anyone could help.
Thanks and have a great Day
Benny[/b]

[Gavinator]

Yes it can be done, I found no improvement because you lose case capacity with the thicker brass, and the Contender pressures need to be kept down. So with the case taper in the 7-30, you gain nothing and pay about double for the brass.
 If however you rechambered to an improved 7-30 the reduction in case taper would keep things working smoothly, and soon you'd want a muzzle brake.

[A MOOSE 4 GOD]

Gavinator:
    Thanks for your response. iI read an article from the reloading room .com that if you load right with a good powder that the cases do not strecth that much and a very good flat shooting load. i will be shooting from a super 16". Do you use 30-30 or buy federal factory's ? I sure could use some advise. One more thing I did buy 4 boxes of the factory federals and the first box at 50 yds. up to 100 yds. sighting in scope and getting used to the gun has been suprizing on the grouping.


Thanks Again
Benny

[Gavinator]

I have not tried factory loads but formed Federal, Frontier, Rem, and Win 30-30 brass. Rem had the largest case capacity but were inconsistant, Frontier is ok but has less capacity than Win. I chose Win for the consistency and capacity.
 Read a Hornady or Speer manual (30 Herrett instructions) to learn how to set your sizing die for forming 30-30 to 7-30, this is the easiest case forming you'll ever do and you'll have no strech in the cases because you set the shoulder where it needs to be.
 Load these new cases with a mid range 7-30 load and be amazed at the accuracy, something happens in fire-forming that's hard to duplicate.

 You are doing this on a Contender frame, right?

[skb2706]

Its easy to do but I concur, no gain in doing so. If you want to try it I'd donate a piece of .375 brass.
I also use Win. 30-30 brass, works just fine.

[Reed1911]

We use it for loading, mainly as it's eaiser to form once rather than fireform and for my personal use they last longer with less annealing. In theroy you could match the necks to your barrel, but I've seen no real accuracy gain from doing it. For us the cost difference is moot between .30-30FF and .375.

[Gregory]

Back when I had a 7-30 Waters, I tried to use some 375 brass but couldn't chamber the rounds as the neck was too thick, and I don't have a neck turning tool.

[Gavinator]

The point I'm trying to get across is that even with fireforming loads you have enough power for hunting, and the easy accuracy that goes with it.
 The 7-30 Waters comes close to getting the loading manual claimed velocities, the only chambering I've done better with is the 30-30AI.

[HL]

I agree with Gregory,

I am using 375 brass and when I first tried to chamber the round, it would not fit due to the tight neck. I turned the necks and everything is just fine.

These cases will last longer than 30-30 brass and the loss of powder capacity is soo little that velocity difference is a moot point.

plus you don't have to waste powder fireforming and spending a bullet that you could be using to hunt with. The extra cost of the 375 brass evens out.