Author Topic: Browning a barell  (Read 1122 times)

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Offline gazz

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Browning a barell
« on: April 05, 2006, 07:32:03 PM »
Hi,
I would like to brown a barell. I've just bought a bottle of Birchwoob Casey Plumb Brown, and have been experimenting on a piece of steel.
The result was a bit less than spectacular. I gave it at least 4 coats, but it looked streaky. Some areas were quite beautiful, but the overall impression is pretty crude. I'm glad I didn't just march in and start on the barell!
Has anyone got any tips they might like to pass on?
The steel needs to be heated and I would be thinking of using a gas flame.
I would imagine I would have to heat up and treat a section at a time.
Would this result in a sort of uneven "stepped" result?
Thanks,
gazz.

Offline dodd3

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Browning a barell
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2006, 11:21:41 PM »
gaz did you clean the metal realy well and degrease it .i have had very good results with laurel mountain forge barrel brown and degreaser. i srub all the meatal parts in hot soapy water,then give it a god swob with isocol then just use the laurel mountain forge brown & degreaser heres a pic of one i did. bernie    :D

if its feral its in peril

Offline quickdtoo

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Browning a barell
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2006, 05:52:54 AM »
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain

Offline Winter Hawk

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Browning a barell
« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2006, 02:47:58 PM »
I used LMF browner/degreaser 20 years ago and it did an excellent job.  Either way, make sure the barrel is thoroughly clean, as dodd3 says.

-Winter Hawk-
"All you need for happiness is a good gun, a good horse and a good wife." - D. Boone

Offline PeashooterJoe

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Plum Brown..
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2006, 06:23:20 PM »
Different steels have different colors. I use acetone to clean the barrel chemically and wear gloves to keep grease off. I use a heat gun and it does better than the propane torch. Note, use good ventilation with chemicals and wear chemical resistant gloves. The laurel mountain forge solution is a little more forgiving and will take some time, but the results are amazing. Follow all directions on it. IMO Good Luck.

Offline gazz

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Browning a barell
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2006, 08:16:29 PM »
Thanks guys,
I gave it a "fairly good" clean, but probably not good enough from what you are saying.
I like the idea of the heat gun. I should probably be able to bring the whole barell up to an even temperature that way.
O.K. it's back to the scrap steel, and then on to the barell with a bit of luck!
Nice pic, bernie. Is it a custom rifle?
Cheers,
gazz.

Offline dodd3

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Browning a barell
« Reply #6 on: April 06, 2006, 11:18:32 PM »
no gazz it's a pedersoli tryon plains rifle, when i got it it had the barrel blued and a walnut stock i just redid the steel and got a semi finished maple stock for it. if you still have probs with browning after you clean realy well try the one i use it's done cold takes a bit longer but i think you have beter control with cold brown .
bernie :D
if its feral its in peril

Offline teech

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Browning a barell
« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2006, 05:01:36 AM »
I've browned a number of barrels using Laurel Mountain,and always had excellent results.Here's one I did in Dec, also browned a Pedersoli "Alamo" at that time.




Offline dispatch 510

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Browning a barell
« Reply #8 on: April 07, 2006, 06:22:01 AM »
Teech what kind of rifle is that?

Offline teech

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Browning a barell
« Reply #9 on: April 07, 2006, 10:10:47 AM »
It's a Thompson Center,with California sights. It's a T/C  replacement stock, nice piece of wood.The browning really complimented the stock.
Top pic is the Pedersoli "Alamo"
Bottom one is a Ron Scott Jeager



Offline 86fan

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Browning a barell
« Reply #10 on: April 07, 2006, 05:16:19 PM »
I browned the barrel on my Jaeger rifle using the Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown, and I think it turned out very well. As mentioned in other posts getting it clean and degreased is a must. Also getting it good and hot is important. I used a short piece of broom handle to make the plug for the muzzle, and then used a pice of 2x2 screwed to the tang. I set the ends on a couple of saw horses, and used a propane Mr. Heater (double burner space heater) to heat the barrel. You need to get get it hot enough to make th ebrowning solution sizzle. Several coats of Plumb Brown really did the trick. Good luck with you project!
86 fan

Offline gazz

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Browning a barell
« Reply #11 on: April 09, 2006, 08:33:37 PM »
Teech,
Thanks for the pic. of the redone T.C. Mine's a T.C. Seneca and I would like to make it look a bit more "traditional". I like what you have done with the rear sight. Is it screwed on, or is it dovetailed?
Does anyone know if you can get steel furniture to replace the brass stuff?
Bernie,
The Pedersoli came up well, that's something like what I would like to do with the seneca.
cheers,
gazz.

Offline teech

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Browning a barell
« Reply #12 on: April 10, 2006, 04:40:10 AM »
Thanks Gazz, the sights come as a matched  set.The rear is screwed and the front dovetailed.You can get them from www.thegunworks.com
For iron furniture go to www.trackofthewolf.com
Cheers teech.

Offline dmills

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How to remove bluing?
« Reply #13 on: April 14, 2006, 05:41:37 PM »
Teech, that is some fine work.  How did you go about de-bluing the parts before browning.  I am getting a slightly used Lyman GPR and am wanting to brown instead of the blue.

Offline dodd3

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Browning a barell
« Reply #14 on: April 15, 2006, 04:35:01 AM »
dmills i  get mine sand blasted it gets all the bluing of and leaves a nice finish
bernie :grin:
if its feral its in peril

Offline lonewolf5348

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BROWNING
« Reply #15 on: April 15, 2006, 08:12:58 AM »

Here a t/c flinter I did about 3 years ago,used LMF to brown ,at first did have a little problems getting use to the stuff but once you get the hang of it the stuff works great ,except for the touch hole liner area the brown still looks great
EARLY RENEGADE KIT GUN FROM THE 70'S 5 DIGIT SERIAL NUMBER

Offline teech

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Browning a barell
« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2006, 07:06:50 AM »
To take the blueing off, use emery cloth, then polish if you like with 600grit wet and dry.When you apply the browning solution it's important not to rub it in but just wipe lightly.rubbing will cause dark spots.I like to apply 5 coats for a dark plum brown.When it's finished , make a thick solution of baking soda and water and scrub the barrel with it, that stops the browning from going any further.To get a satin finish I rub tung oil all over the barrel.