Author Topic: How do I stop my rings from sliding? (Read 905 times)

Bama76 · « **on:** May 17, 2006, 05:45:32 PM »

The new Federal auto-match ammo is pretty accurate and functions flawlessly in what use to be a picky Marlin 60 BUT.... it keeps walking my scope back and off of the tip-off grooves. Any suggestions? I'm afraid to tighten them any more. I've never had this problem before with other ammo but it seems that the new Fed's are hot! They make a heck of a crack when fired.

Mike

Victor3 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 18, 2006, 02:39:31 AM »

Easy - Use iron sights!

Some better rings may be in order. Some of the cheapies with sheet-metal clamps just don't have enough "bite". I've never had rings slip on a 22, but I'd bet that this may be your problem.

One trick I've used on spring-powered airguns (Notorious for slipping rings) is to smear a bit of toothpaste on the rail where the rings clamp (Don't laugh, it works).

S.S. · « **Reply #2 on:** May 18, 2006, 05:02:16 AM »

Take a center punch and pean a small dent into the
scope groove on the receiver just behind the scope mount.
(Bend the top of the groove down). This will stop your mount from sliding back.

Charles/NM · « **Reply #3 on:** May 18, 2006, 06:23:26 AM »

This problem has been discussed at length on the Rimfire Central forum.
The reason this particular rifle and it's derivatives suffer scope movement is the heavy bolt slamming into the breech combined with a very soft cast aluminum receiver. It's hard to get a good grip on the receiver without going to expensive mounts. I don't feel that's necessary. My permanent solution is to drill and tap the receiver behind the rear mount for a 10-32 hex head bolt for the rear mount to butt up against. Problem solved for good and you can use any mount you may have on hand. You need to make sure you drill the hole perpendicular to the receiver, it's tapered at that point. And you need to cut the hex bolt to a length so it doesn't stick down into the receiver where it could be hit by the bolt.

Bama76 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 18, 2006, 05:14:54 PM »

I used a flat head screwdriver and small hammer to "ping" the rail down and it seems to have worked perfectly! Thanks for the help guys.On another note, I just finished off my first 325 rounds of the new Federal auto match and had not a single function failure in my dirty little 60. While I haven't really shot for accuracy just yet (most shooting has been done by my boys) they sound very consistent. None of the crack-crack-pop sound like the el-cheapo Feds and Winchesters I had been using tended to do. I'm buying more for sure.

Mike

S.S. · « **Reply #5 on:** May 19, 2006, 08:01:58 AM »

I think the Bang, Bang, POP of rimfire cartridges
is what gives them a certain CHARM of their own.
I wish I had a dollar for every one of the POPs
I have heard....

rangerruck · « **Reply #6 on:** June 10, 2006, 03:19:30 PM »

two surefire ways without altering your rig. one... use locktite behind and along both mounts. two... switch to kwiksite mounts, they use four screws in the top and therefore, they are wwiiiiiidddddeeeeee, with lots of surface area on that edge grabbing on. I use them on everything , including a post ww2 parker hale 308 ultralite. All other mounts and rings used to dig trenches in my scope, once i put those on, problem stopped. This is on a 308 that ,with scope, doesn't weigh 7 lbs.
A third way , if you don't mind a high setting scope, is to get the kwiksite, weaver style, tip-off block mounts. Put those on first, they don not move, then put on any rings you want.