Thread pitch for Stabilizer Hole?

[perklo]

Help!

I managed to muck-up the first 4-5 threads on the hole for my brand new bow's stabilizer!

I assume that all bow companies are standard on this hole (mine is a Fred Bear) and I want to order a tap of the correct size tomorrow to chase those threads and fix this ASAP! If I send it in or take it to a shop this time of year I won't get sighted in before the deer opener the end of September...

Thanks - perklo

[mg66]

I would give the company a call or any for that matter seeing they are all pretty well standard. Here is the Fred Bear customer service page http://www.fredbearoutdoors.com/customer-service/index.tpl

[perklo]

Thanks MG66!

I called a hunting buddy of mine who's a professional mechanic, and he gauged a couple of his own stabilizers to be 5/16 x 24 NF thread pitch...

So (after buying a tap and die set today) I just finished chasing both the threads on the stabilizer and the stabilizer hole on the bow. All is now well, and I thank you for the input.

Just a bit of advice to anyone trying this for themself, anytime using dies and taps:

1) You will start meeting resistance part way through the job, BACK the die/tap out and use canned air to spray the threads or hole clear of metal that has been cut. WEAR SAFETY GLASS unless you like metal shavings in your eyes. I had to back the die off the stabilizer's threads three times to remove build-up, but the third time I easily got to the bottom .

2) Use lots of cutting oil like Tap Magic. Sears even sells it at their larger store departments.

3) Have someone else hold the bow straight (unless you have a fairly large padded vise) when you try to tap the soft aluminum bow riser hole. If you start crooked, your done for...  Use a tapered tap, not a bottom tap. It is MUCH easier to start a tapered tap correctly in buggered threads than a bottom tap. At least once halfway down the hole, remove the tap and blow the metal bits out, then re-apply the tapping oil and finish the job.

- perklo