Belt Mountain Base Pin and trigger work

[safarigene]

Just wondering what the advantages of this product was. I have a new Stainless Bisley Hunter 44mag. Do I need to install one of these? Also, how do I go about lightening the trigger pull. Are there spring kits I can install?

Thanks
Gene Cole III

[Flinch]

I have the same gun and put one on mine, mostly because the stock base pin would fly out during recoil. The Belt Mtn fits a little better and has a locking screw, problem solved.

As for the trigger, you can get spring kits from Brownells, Midway, or places like that. I think I used a Wolff spring kit, it came with a reduced hammer spring, reduced trigger spring, and an extra power base pin latch spring. (this spring alone will probably keep your base pin from flying out).

Or you can take one leg of the trigger spring off and see if that will work for you. It will reduce it some, I didnt really like this method and ended up buying the springs. I also polished the trigger, hammer sear, and transfer bar, to smooth the action.

[safarigene]

What  are the negative effects, if any, of taking one of the legs of the spring off? Thanks for the info on the base pin. I will definitely be looking into one pretty soon.

Thanks
Gene Cole III

[Flinch]

Not all guns are exactly the same, taking one leg of the trigger spring loose wont hurt anything, it may work just great for some and not so good for others. Try it, if you dont like it, put it back.
When I first tried this, the action was so gritty that with one leg removed, the trigger would not reset.
I suppose you could bend this spring and lighten it up some that way also, bending springs is just something I dont care to do.

[Lloyd Smale]

one thing to keep in mind is a pour mans trigger job does nothing for the creap in your trigger and if anything makes it seem worse. Creap is the biggest detriment to accurate shooting. Belt mountain pins are a good bang for the buck on any sa ruger. I use them on all my guns.

[Tom C.]

The reason for the undersize base pins Ruger uses is to make assembly, with the tolerence ranges of the parts, easier. Putting in a Belt Mountain cylinder base pin takes out the clearances and tightens everything up. That can help, usually doesn't hurt, but if things are in the wrong end of the tolerence zone, could hurt. I do it to all my Rugers anyway. Most slip in, but a couple required lapping the frame to clean up the frame holes for the pin. If they have hurt accuracy, I haven't noticed it.
Rugers are simple enough that if you have a little kitchen table gunsmithing skill, you can clean up the trigger creap and smooth up the action with no problem. I like the Wolff spring kits as well.

[Racer X]

I used to have the "Poor Mans" trigger job on my Super Blackhawk Hunter. When I sent it to David Clements to do some work, I asked him if removing one of the trigger return spring legs would harm the gun or have other bad consequences. I can't remember his exact reply but he strongly advised against it. I believe it had something to do with potential misfires or the trigger not returning all the way forward after the hammer falls.

Mr. Clements has done work on my GP-100 and Super Blackhawk. There have been several instances where I asked about the necessity of doing certain work on my guns. As often as not, he told me when work was unneccesary. My point is, I don't believe he told me the "Poor Mans" trigger was a bad idea just so he could sell me an action job.

[Lloyd Smale]

Dave is a very honest man and wouldnt say anything that wasnt fact. Ive also seen guns with poor man trigger jobs that the hammer would push off with very little pressure. Personaly i cant shoot a gun with a poor trigger so every ruger in the safe has had trigger work done to it. Its the best 100 bucks youll ever spend on your gun. Its about guaranteed to cut your groups in half.

[Fiveshooter]

I agree with Lloyd on the importance of a crisp trigger. Also as Lloyd mentioned if a trigger has a long pull or "creep" simply installing a lighter trigger spring WILL make it feel much worse. I have never owned a new model Ruger revolver that I felt did not need something done to the trigger. About 8 years ago I bought a Powers Custom stoning fixture and all the adapters for all revolver models that I own. If you can follow instructions the setup is ALMOST foolproof. I do install reduced weight trigger return springs if needed but never a reduced mainspring. If a trigger job is done correctly the weight and length of pull will not decrease with use. I will set most of my own SA revolvers to 2.75# with a crisp short travel. I have weighed triggers 5 years and thousands of rounds after doing the work and the pull weight remains the same. I have done a few trigger jobs for local friends but unless I know them VERY well, I will not take them under 3 pounds. I had to learn to do the work myself because I could not afford to send every new model Ruger I own to a smith. BTW the heavy and sometimes "creepy" trigger problem generally exists in ALL newly manufactured Ruger revolvers including thier double action revolvers. So all my DA Rugers get the treatment as well. In general anyone that is content with the "out of the box" trigger that comes on newly manufactured Ruger revolvers is either very very lucky to get one that slipped past the lawsuit paranoid inspectors or they just dont know the difference. In the latter case a trigger job probably would not help them.

[LAH]

If you don't got good trigger You don't got nothin'....................Creeker